NotLurking

My local EJ22 guru said: "go to pep boys and get some wires". $28 with lifetime warranty against defects (Borg Warner- BWA) looks the same, and is an inch or so more generous on all the lengths. Compared to the OEM wires I removed, Borg Warner's crimping appears to be much more robust. And what does Borg Warner do to help their customers? They box their wires with a small packet of dielectric grease to lube the connection on the spark plug end for easier removal without damage. Ha! re-usable plug wires, what a concept! The moral of the story: Lube your spark plug connectors for best service life. Never needed to do this with my VW stuff, now, minor adjustments to habits must be made now that Subaru 2.2 is manning the engine bay on the Vanagon live and learn. Thanks, everybody for chiming in!

Rampage, thanks for the tip!

Yes moosens, that is correct, they were purchased at the dealer. Along with the new e22 short block and and a truckload of other engine peripheral parts. The problem appears to be with the crimping, which is clearly defective, and would never grip the wire worth beans... And both that I pulled were exactly alike. Perhaps the dealer was sourcing ( inadvertently?) fake wire sets, or the set was made the day a new guy started on the crimper. As for the fake parts you mentioned, are we talking about the guys on ebay??? Are there any other fans of NGK plug wires out there? Where do you purchase your GENUINE NGK wires?

Perhaps I don't know the secret password or something.... RE: my new EJ22 which uses 1993 donor heads and peripherals: Today I set out to pull a couple of spark plugs to check condition for clues to an operational issue. Pulling the OEM wire ends free from the plugs resulted in destruction of the wires (new with only 2000 miles). I did NOT yank on the cables, but rather, pulled the bright-red rubbery ends. After some effort, they came free, but in the process, left their metal connectors on the NGK spark plugs... WTH? are OEM wires these one-time use items? Is there a special process to keep them in one piece when removing? In 40 years wrenching, have never seen any OEM part fail this easily. Is this a fluke? Now I'm hesitant to buy another set from Subaru, and the geeks on USMB say "always use oem wires". Thoughts?

Thanks for the note, yes, I'm sure it is all from a 1993 AT car, as I bought the whole (barely) running car and salvaged what I needed. the almost new IAC was not dirty, and moved freely. Did not test resistance. Yes it's all tight. THE ONE THING about the IAC- it has coolant lines in and out. Simple, right? Well, Subaru no longer makes the tight little coolant elbow that goes between the IAC and the throttle body. Mine had a piece of straight hose which had become kinked... Should have used a longer piece and looped. Better solution: I found a Gates elbow in 5/16" that worked great once both ends were shortened appropriately. This part is considered a heater hose. Suspect this was what was throwing off the IAC outputs and causing codes. So, the takeaways: 1) Fault codes must be hooked up and functioning for easy (er) diagnosis. 2) A functioning multimeter is also essential. 3) Aftermarket Manuals seem spotty at best, so beware. If unsure, ask the bros on US.org 4) Out of all who "guessed" at the problem The mechanic was right (it was also on FergLoyal's shortlist). He reminded me of this. I reminded him that guessing was still for fools! Lessons learned. Thanks everyone for your help! N.L.

No kidding!!! my mechanic said theHaynes info on how to set the TPS is B.S. (It did not work as he predicted). They focus on pins 1&2 and the initial on-off, which seems sensible, but... The Factory manual completely ignores pins 1&2.... Got it set up by "osmosis", and it seems to be working fine now. No bucking, no stalling.

Thanks, Heartless, that's good info to have whether it's perfect or not. I also ordered a Haynes manual to not fly blind so much... UPDATE: Have sorted the wiring and now have CEL lamp wired into dash, and have read codes (throwing 24 & 42) The Air Control Valve and TPS are the culprits. Will remove and clean the almost new ACV in hope that that clears things up. Also noticed that the little hose that connects the ACU to the Throttle body is kinked. It's like 2" of hose between hard fittings that force it into an "L" shape. Will use a longer hose and put a loop into it to prevent kinking on re-install. Suspect that swapping the idle switch has its adjustment goofed up now. Will attempt to properly adjust with feeler gauge before buying a new one : Spec I found here: 1&2 terminals- continuity at fully closed throttle, continuity at 0.7mm open throttle, and open circuit at 0.9mm open throttle as measured at throttle stop. For FergLoyal: the Neutral & inhibitor switches (code 51), parking switch (code 52), and VSS (code 33) are all waived codes under this install per CA. law I'm going to hook up VSS with aftermarket kit and see if it helps operation at all. It should, otherwise why would Subaru have used it? (Vanagons don't have a VSS input source as-built).

FerGloyal- Thanks, the CEL location is very helpful! that's my next task, hooking up a CEL light and checking codes.... the AT mode info is also excellent to have, and I'll make sure that gets grounded as well. will follow up with findings. N.L.

NVU, That's a good point. (and just yesterday, while changing out the coolant temp sensor, It was apparent that little bits of roadway debris collects on top of the engine). There should be (could be) a wheel well filler or even a mud flap to keep crud and water from flinging into the engine compartment. Hmm, could probably sell a few of those if they existed! Thanks, I'll be sure to pay close attention to those areas! N.L.

NVU, Thanks for weighing in. This has been worsening for a few months to the point where it's now unsafe to operate in traffic. Your experience is interesting, But I'm not sure what you specifically refer to. Do you mean the spark plug connector? At the plug end? that could progressively worsen. I'll R&R the plug ends a few times. This makes me think of another possibility... Fouled plugs. Will also take a look there. Probably worth doing the old test of running on 3 then switching to the next etc. to see whether one of the cylinders is dragging the rest down, could be an intermittent fuel injector. (in the old days, a clogged idle jet would be the culprit). N.L.

FerGloyal, thanks for persisting. Apologies for dismissing you without truly taking time to understand you. In truth, I agree, that providing the ECU with as many windows into what is going on around it the better things should perform power and efficiency wise. The vehicle was running well previously with good torque and power maybe not the best mileage, but at >4,000 lb. loaded it's a lot more to push around than a legacy. It is equipped with an original stock rebuilt VW 3 spd. Auto trans with fresh torque converter. This problem has worsened over time, and (relatively) cold ambient air temps seem to make it worse. I think your points are good. This is the first I have heard about either the AT/MT discriminator, or the Neutral switch, and I need to confirm whether either is connected.... (Do you have links to instructions for setting up either the AT/MT discriminator, or the Neutral switch in a vanagon with stock auto trans?? ) You have touched on one of the disappointing things I learned this afternoon. Realizing that reading the codes was essential, I decided to look at ECU connected things for the first time to find out what was being thrown. Seems the trouble is that my experienced conversion mechanic didn't connect the CEL to the ECU. so... there is currently no way to extract the codes. (supposedly, the ecu "had a lamp built into it", but no.). Spoke with mechanic, asking where to pick up the CEL signal led to getting into the harness, which was made and installed by mechanic. That led to the discovery that the VSS wire was labelled but not connected to anything. Both of these issues existed during "normal" operation, but you're right, they need to be addressed. For the VSS, I know that kits are available to run off of the CV joint, so that's an easy step to complete. Regarding the CEL readout signal, do you know where to pick up a signal? (sigh, yes I really need to own a Legacy manual with schematics and troubleshooting info.)... I did learn about how to put the system into a test/code mode etc., and noticed that it smoothed out quite a bit at idle and was less prone to dying in that mode. Is this similar to a "Limp home" mode? would any fault be smoothed in this mode, but power and efficiency sacrificed? Update: MAF and Coolant temp sensor replacement with new subaru parts had no effect. (well, at least I have spares now for the travel kit). Reading other sites/posts lead back to something I fixed 4 years and a scant 2000 miles ago: replacing the ACU. I tried cleaning it but it was erratic at idle even after. Replacement was the key. I have ignored it because "It's 'new' it must be OK" illogically echoes in my head. Next step- remove and clean the ACU and see what happens. Could be that irrational "logic" got in the way of getting straight to the problem. Why would this new ACU be dirty with so little mileage? Theory: For this install, the oil pan has to be shortened an inch, however, everyone says "don't worry you can still fill 'er up, there's plenty of space above the oil". OK, but... If the oil is too high it could be atomizing and much more than usual getting moved through system with crankcase vapors. Could be wrong, but I think that CC vapor does circulate through that part. Will look at plumbing tomorrow to determine. To be continued....

Thanks! It actually runs OK for about 20 seconds before trying to die at stop lights. Yes, have done so, all new and all tight with clamps. (had post MAF leak issue when it was first built, and it is similar except for now it is running OK at first before gaining a bit of heat). This is a vanagon conversion, so the subie AT issues do not apply. Best, N.L.

Thanks, Yes, it is running rich. The coolant temp sensor is on the left side on the back of the coolant manifold- correct? Gauge sensor is to the right of it also on the coolant manifold?

Bennie, Thanks, your thoughts are interesting, but all injectors are new Subaru, as is the Air control valve. (2000 good miles out of all parts). Everything was working. no adjustments have been made. The Coolant sensor may also cause a rich condition, as the ECU always thinks the coolant is cold. This would affect all 4 cylinders equally. Yes am going to have to learn how to read codes. Do not have a functioning CEL on the dash, so need to dig into the ecu stuff under the back seat and figure that out. Have found the code reading tutorial so, that's a start. Thanks, N.L.

Mileage is down on highway as well.

It's wet & has been smelling gassy after parking.

Determined today that the MAF is NOT the problem on the subievan. So here we go... diagnosis time. The motor is new, as are most peripherals. I had suspected the MAF because it and the throttle position switch are the only old parts. The engine starts when cold, but once it has run briefly it will start hunting at idle and will die if not kept above 1600RPM with the pedal. It runs decently if moving, but stopping for signals will put in into death spiral with hunting getting bad after about 20 seconds sitting. Two locals think its either throttle position switch or coolant temp sensor. All hoses new and tight. Air control valve was new subaru installed less than 2000 miles ago. Your insights would be greatly appreciated!

G.D. I took your first suggestion and ordered a new MAF from Subaru dealer. Fortunately scored a 20% discount. Thanks for weighing in! N.L.

G.D. is there a post providing detailed information about what you suggest? What is the ballpark cost all inclusive? P&L Thanks! N.L.

Guise, Thanks for your insights and offer. Matt, I'm using the paper element from Kennedy, and yeah, agree that K&N would be a poor usage, adjacent to the MAF. Used K&N with a pair of Webers on my D.D. for many years, but that's a totally different (caveman) approach.... 3Pin, What's your price for a good used part? It would help to confirm my diagnosis and be a good spare even if I do decide to buy a new one later. General Dis, Yeah, that's my tendency. Get 'em while they're available. They are spendy, but wondering Is Hitachi Japan a workable MAP, or also crap? It's also nice to know there are other workable options should push come to shove. Thanks Again! NL

Apologies if this is already somewhere... couldn't find any info. Having MAF symptoms on my subievan (and it's one of the few parts that were not replaced w new during swap). Been trying to navigate the bewildering options out there in the retail world, and anticipate that anything for $20 is a bad idea. Ha-Ha "lifetime" warranty right. you spend a lifetime trying to get a replacement when it fails? Are reman units any good? if so, whose? There are many New from the $79.00- $400 range. Delphi, Cardone, Hitachi, etc. I know pick a part is a favorite source for users, but the failed part was essentially from a junker, and it lasted 6000 miles. I want a part that will last and work optimally. Are there any suggestions, comments, warnings to consider in this purchase?

OK, rather than leave another dead-end thread, here is what solved the problem... Having been through the intake leak maze when the engine was first installed, all the intake stuff was double checked and found to still be tight and free of leaks. Based upon the ease of changing the part, and direct relationship to A/F ratio, I swapped in a new Denso O2 sensor. (BTW, this what the smog guy suspected was the problem) The HC and CO rose a bit as anticipated, and the NOx dropped to almost zero. The engine passed rigorous CA smog with flying colors. Apparently the first Denso O2 sensor was defective, as it only had 1000 miles on it, and was not worn or abused. The biggest hurdle was that everyone assumed the problem couldn't be with the O2 sensor because it was new. My buddy ( a 40 year veteran mechanic) says that: "the quality of auto parts in general has declined in the last several years, and failures like this are becoming more common." (even from previously well-respected brands) This is not good news for those of us who maintain our own vehicles, as it adds time and uncertainty to our efforts. On the bright side...The new EJ22 engine is now running even better than ever! A hearty Thanks! to those members who generously shared their knowledge and analysis!

Thanks, Tex! That makes sense, but what factors will play into the lean condition? (is there anything besides the obvious intake leaks?) bad O2 sensor? Although every hose was clamped, checked and double checked, (after the engine compartment photo was taken) there is the plastic intake part that clamps to the remains of the subie intake duct... Only God knows why the MAF is located so far from the throttle body (increasing the potential for leakage) I'm going to have to find something that sticks to polypropylene and seal that joint better... Has anybody had any luck gluing/sealing polypropylene? Product suggestions? Back in the day, working with weber carbs, we used to spray some ether around the intake manifolds while idling and see if it idles up a bit. does this work with the subie, or does the computer compensate? Eric

Hi, I have a fresh ej22 with about 1000 miles on it now. It is outfitted with 1994 Legacy externals. (all reused Legacy parts: wiring harness, ECU, throttle body, MAF are from a single complete donor car) It is installed in a 1990 vanagon and it runs great. No complaints. Much is new: CA-certified Cat, Denso O2, OEM fuel injectors, idle control valve, plugs NGK irridium, plug wires, etc. all sensors new OEM, all hoses belts, and pulleys new OEM. The only hitch: I took it in for CA smog today and the HC and CO were super clean, but the NOx was barely OK on the 15 MPH test, but was about 30% above limit on the 25MPH test... FAIL The van is automatic and the engine speed is close to 2000 RPM on both tests, but at 25 MPH it is in top gear. The smog guy suspects the O2 sensor. My mechanic suspects that the throttle position is set improperly. Any insights would be most appreciated. Thanks, Eric

Wow, that's big difference... Out here in CA I think its closer to maybe 20-30¢ difference, but then all of our gas is often a buck more than the rest of the country. No, no excuse at all, I agree... They just never did the development work... The wasserboxer was simply a rehash of everything that preceded it. But with water. Hello! Distributors, caps, rotors, etc? Prehistoric failure prone parts. I am a longtime VW owner, (from the days when every car had those mechanical ignitions) but for a 1990 model it is inexcusable to not have electronic ignition and knock sensing. Hello, how about a MAF??? nope, instead, a crappy "airbox" with a flap hooked to a non-replacable rheostat that wears out in the idle position. On the other hand, while the VW Vanagon ECU is notorious for going bad, I was surprised when I took my legacy apart to get the harness and ECU loose. Subaru was so confident in their ECU that they buried it under the dash in a place that requires dismantling the car to get it out! Happy to be moving up to a Subaru H-4 and making a good Vanagon great. Thanks, everyone for your kind assistance!