Spazz698

Mine didnt! Mine was cracked in a few places due to bolts not being torqued down (and 3 of the 4 bolts being used, and 2 of them being stripped from being crossthreaded and jammed in) When it finally cracked it just made a horrible sound starting up (think loose piece of metal in the housing) then that sound again putting it into gear. The inspection plate (if this is like my 93 legacy) will be towards the passenger side, you'll have to pull the cover off and I believe the pcv hose to look into it.

So did I. The owner was on the news saying her son (I think) had put it on ebay. Repairs on that car's gonna be costly....

How often do you see a 90s+ subaru on the side of the road (other than with a flat)? I NEVER do! My 93 honestly should have blown up on me a couple times but it never has!

If you know what you're looking for, the handling in awd is different than fwd. I noticed a huge difference when I had the fwd fuse in (in my 93 wagon) even going in a straight line. So my suggestion would be put the fuse in and see if you can feel a diff, or you could do a couple donuts on dry pavement and see which tires leave marks Not recommended really, but I drive like a bat outta hell so I know all my tires leave marks, the fronts more than the rear from the power difference. or you could simply lift the car completely off the wheels (some shops might let you use a lift which is the safest way to go, or use jack stands, I just dont see using jacks and just jacks being smart in this case at all) and have someone put it in gear- it should cause all 4 tires to move just idling with no load on the wheels. I havent tried this method but to me it makes sense.

oh yeah I'm very aware Im lucky they didnt go when I first got the car lol, 267k on those gaskets vs 88k from the last GM I owned. Unfortunately, I think the person who did my oil change overfilled it (as the anal oil checker I am since it's always leaked oil from the 2 rear seals that were replaced recently so I did check and the oil sat right at the first bend in the dipstick, way above the full dot and stayed there for almost a month til now) and I just happen to work at the shop so Im not sure if I want to bring it up or not. Why I didnt bring it up when I first noticed it...I dunno probably cuz I wasnt sure if my car was only leaking from those 2 seals but since I havent lost any til recently Im pretty sure. Anyways Im curious to know where the coolant has been going. It's not in the oil, so my guess is the exhaust. Can coolant clog the cat? sometimes it felt like my tranny was jerking but then I realized it could be too much back pressure, and now it feels Ive lost quite a bit and yes I have driven a few cars with no exhaust/fart cans for mufflers lol.

I blew one/both head gaskets My car started warming up a bit after driving for a couple hrs, so I parked to check the radiator and I didnt even have a problem popping the cap off. That was low and when I filled it with water (I needed to replace it anyways and I was gonna do it fri) guess what I seen on the top-oil! So now I have to figure out how Im gonna fix this since I have to work, not only that how am I gonna get there when I do start tearing it apart- cant take a few days off I've only been there for a lil over 3mo- and also how does one flush the cooling system? I know Im gonna have to since there's oil in there, my work does have a pressure flush fluid exchange thing for coolant (forces the new coolant in, pushes old out) but I'm not sure that'll work in this case. So not happy I just got my oil leaks taken care of, and my tranny, but now I'm thinking the tranny issues were actually a combination of this and a possible exhaust leak somewhere. The tranny was overheating a bit, then on the freeway a week or two ago a truck in front of me kicked up a good sized rock or something, that hit my underbody. after that my exhaust was loud when I accelerated and my tranny never acted up til today. I know for sure 2 days ago my oil was full and now it's sitting about half. Lucky me my new bf works at a parts store! lol

it sounds more like the clutch was overtightened more than a major issue. I wouldnt know why they would give you this much of a hassle to check that, assuming its like a honda you can adjust the clutch without needing much of anything.

After reading a mess of posts about torque bind I think this is my issue. I cant find anything that says it only does it when its warmed up (or cold for that matter) but the symtoms do sound familiar. And does anyone by any chance know an easier way to grease the outer CV joint short of breaking the metal band and replacing it? My LF cv joint clicks once in a while and I just noticed there's damn near no grease in the boot. And I really hate dealing with those metal bands...

I mentioned something about this in a previous post about something else but now the problem has gotten more specific so I figured Id start a new one. My tranny feels like its overheating. I looked in the legacy manual I have and I cant figure out how it's cooled. My primary fan is shot (so my secondary is on all the time and I cant use a/c or my motor will start getting hot) and my coolant should be replaced soon, its not completely bad but it is getting there. Im not completely surprised at all the issues with my car considering the mileage on it but Im wondering if that might be a reason for the tranny to overheat. It's that or a cooling line that Im gonna have to actually look for is blocked, but access to lifts for personal use it limited to school since work wont let me work on my car w/o a work order being on it and Im just not paying up to check/work on my own car. Im thinking its overheating cuz when its been on the road for over an hr or two it starts acting up, if I let it cool down it works just fine til it gets hot again. I make regular trips 45+ mi away so this is a problem for me and Im hoping Im not gonna have to give up on my car cuz sometimes I dont have time to wait an hr to let it cool down so I can get home and I wont drive it far after it starts acting up. Now that Im thinking about this this isnt torque binding right? I did have the fwd fuse in for a while when the flexplate was giving me problems (this was when I didnt know wtf was going on with it) and my dad didnt notice anything wrong with it when he drove it to my work from the shop (about 25mi away and the mechanic drove it for 30-45 min before that to make sure it was fine so it had time to warm up and get hot) and I pulled the fuse as soon as I got ready to go home so I never drove with it in. It feels like the gear is either sticking or like its towing something (think tow rope thats not being kept taut but not jerking the entire car)

sounds like the tranny is having problems from the binding, but Ive never heard of it just losing reverse. If they give you the car free I'd pick it up, you shouldnt be spending half the car's worth on parts, just remember you'll still need to deal with the torque bind after you swap the tranny. I'd take it to a good shop and get a thurough diagnosis on it and go from there, many places will do the diagnosis for a fee then deduct it from the actual work done on it. Dont know if youre doing this yourself or not but I would take it to a shop to get looked at so you dont end up doing the "replace this part and see if this works" deal, it can get spendy. PS if you do pick it up and fix it, make sure you get the paperwork done on it before putting money into the car. Then if the guy wants it back tell him it'll cost him the amount you put into it, and another couple hundred for being the middle man

I pulled the codes today, 24 and 42, both are air related (one's air control valve and the other is idle switch signal) I have a feeling the valve solenoid is faulty and has been for a while since I had intake issues almost the entire time i had it and it just now caused the CEL to turn on. Pretty sure the switch signal is my doing since I adjusted it so it'd idle where it should, was fine for a few months. The light was on before I put my car in the shop btw, the same day the flexplate started making horrible noises on my way home from pull a part (for a diff car) my car pretty much sat for about 2 weeks (used it once cuz I was desperate and late for work) and there's LOTS of miles on my car. currently 264800 (give or take <10 miles) but I did find out the tranny has been rebuilt for sure within the last 2 yrs and the motor probably has too, Ive found markings that'd indicate at least the top end (erm...sides...the heads and intake system at the very least) has been. Ive put 34k mi on it since I bought it at the very end of december. Im thinking it's time to change all the filters in it I can get to. New question: Once my car's been driven for a while it shifts oddly. I only notice this between 3rd and 4th, it doesnt like coasting in 4th (remember freeway driving!) it feels like Im driving a manual going 70 in 4th instead of 5th, that immediate slowdown/slight jerking thing (anyone got an idea what I'm talking about? lol) Kinda feels like its shifting a lil too soon as far as city driving goes as well. The tranny shop did check my tranny out to make sure nothing else was damaged and he said he couldnt find anything so Im wondering if this can be fixed by adjusting the bands?

the flexplate broke about a month ago. Actually it never completely broke but it was getting there. Now I have a new issue: my car doesnt like to start. It's not the starter itself, that's doing just fine but it's acting like it has a fuel pressure problem, I have to give it a lil gas before it'll start and my idle yet again is off. Right now it's sitting lower than it should be and I'm still running around a grand at idle (when warm) Im not sure if this was from it basically sitting for 2-3 weeks til I got it into the shop or what. Now I do know this, the mechanic that did my tranny work went ahead and replaced 2 rear seals on the motor I would have had to pull the tranny off to get to since those were leaking and filled the oil back up a lil too high, it's sitting about 1/2 qt over. No overheating (well unless I use a/c, one of my fans crapped out and Im still trying to fix the more important things before this since I can roll my windows down) no burning oil or anything. I'm planning to do my oil change on fri (since I literally put my entire check into getting my car out from the shop) been babying the hell out of it since I wanna break in the parts I just bought not blow them up. I checked the fuel and vaccum lines and cant find anything wrong, so my next guess is either the air or fuel filter. Any ideas? I dont have any problems once it's started it's just the inital startup. oh BTW the CEL is on, I was thinking it was from the tranny issue but it hasnt gone away and from what Ive read it shouldve reset itself when the battery was disconnected so Im not sure yet, everytime I try to get my kid down for a nap so I can look for the wires i need to connect she never does and I cant do it in the dark

I towed my 86 accord with my subaru with no problems, that thing I knows weighs almost as much as my subaru

Mine were bad when I first got my car, I wetsanded with 1500 + 2000 grit for a few hrs. NOTHING got these cleaned up til I did that. Only downside is now theyre starting to get a lil foggy again (probably lack of cleaning ha) and now every time I pass I have to clean them off to make sure its nothing too bad lol

I had this prob with my legacy, the pass side headlight liked to flicker a lot, come to find out the plug was on the verge of a total meltdown (literally...) the plastic around the low beam and the ground wires were almost nonexistant. Then I realized it was caused by 2 things: 1) bad xenon bulb producing way more heat than it was supposed to and 2) my lights being on all the time. replaced the plug, then the bulb a few weeks later (as it started to do the same thing to this plug but it was still useable) and havent had a problem since.