iriejedi
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Everything posted by iriejedi
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I see there being value in Colorado for a radiator like that, I know the manual tranny/engine combinations have aluminum "racing" radiators and some of my friends use these to solve the issue. With all the dead Subaru's on I-70 from climbing the mountain roads, there is definately a market. And for just the dreaded head gasket problem I wonder if these could slow that failure rate everywhere. I understand that in most conditions these temperature behaviors don't exist (when I travel around North America I don't have problems), here in Colorado it simply does happen. Often actually... might I say. I've owned many 2.5L Subie's and all seem to struggle with the same issues on hot summer day's only. I wish they all could run hard like the old ej22 (1990 - 1998) that were impossible to blow up.
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Still looking for a "high flow" radiator with an internal tranny cooler if anyone has a lead on these. One for an 07 Outback and one for a 05 Forester. Thank you for all the other advise and discussion although I did not hear a comment for the original question asking if anyone knows of where purchase this specific type of radiator for a N/A 2.5L with auto tranny. Colorado temps warmer than 85 degrees (usually 95 or more) climbing the mountain out of Denver on I-70 leave dead Subies along the sides of the road on a regular basis. This is a real issue for 2.5 L engines going up these mountains at the speed limit or higher. The air is less dense and rather dry as well at 6000 or 7000 feet pulling mountains.
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I have a 2007 Outback and a 2005 Forester both of them don't like climbing the mountains in Colorado when it's especially hot out. Both of them also have automatic transmissions. Does anybody know of a high-flow radiator that has a tranny cooler in it as well? Stock isn't cutting it climbing the pass without my heater on. All I can find is high flow radiators for manual transmission vehicles. Typically their for Turbo, mine are not tubo. Jerry
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Recently replaced spark plugs on 2005 Outback 2.5L maunal trans, car runs down the road and through the mountains fine but when I get to a stoplight/stop sign and push in the clutch, engine stalls. I tried replacing the spark plug wires and I installed a new neutral safety switch. No engine codes, any ideas?
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Was the problem ever discovered? I'm seeing a P0172 on an identical Subaru (2002 5-speed Outback) and sometimes no code but always shuttering, especially at idle.
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I'm looking to upgrade my 2007 Outback with a little stiffer suspension since I often haul a lot of equipment or tools in the back of the car. I believe I read somewhere a long time ago that one could install the struts and springs from a 2000 - 2004 Outback into these newer Subaru's to beef up the suspension a little. Does anyone have info on this conversion or anything that would help me get a stronger set-up on the rear suspension?
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- rear suspension
- struts
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(and 3 more)
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I have a 2007 Outback with manual non-heated seats. I also have access to a 2007 Outback with electric seats that are heated. The interior in my Outback is trashed and I want to swap the good interior from the broken car into mine. Has anybody dealt with installing seats that have wiring for electric and/or heated situations? I'm assuming that the entire wiring harness to some degree needs to be changed. Anybody that's been through the process could help me save time I'd appreciate it. All the love from Colorado!
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Drive gear ratios? I'm assuming differentials (both are 4.11) are exactly the same and don't need to be swapped. The 07 sounds like hell when driving especially in 3rd and pops out of 4th constantly. Otherwise it goes down the road at 70 mph alright. Owner just doesn't have any funds to have things rebuilt so used parts is her only option. I have plenty of tools and am helping for free. There was a front right side brake locked up and a super sloppy driveshaft I resolved first when I started the work. Gonna have replaced almost all the engine and drivetrain by the time we are completed. So your saying the gearing speed ratios inside the tranny and not the ones in the differential? Do we need to just wait for one from an 06 - 08 (or is it 05 - 07)?
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So I have a question, I'm working on a 2007 Forester (TY755VC7AA) that has a bad transmission and all I can find locally is the 5-speed manual from a 2004 (TY755VC4AA). If both have 4.11 gears will this swap work okay? It seems that it should but I don't want to get into the job and find out it wasn't a compatible decision. Thoughts and experience could help thank you all happy Easter!
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Well the car I am talking about is a 2002 Outback wagon... The tires, brakes, and struts were replaced (not all at the same time) because they were worn out. The ball joints and wheel bearings were replaced because I thought it would fix the issue after the above items didn't. The rack and pump were leaking and simply was replaced along with everything in time somewhere. Always there's been a shaking issue. I've see this exact same issue on a friends 2013 Forester xt although she has done brakes struts wheel bearings and tires due to wear she has not yet done her rack and pinion, although it is leaking. Very confusing on both vehicles hence why I'm here. Oh and elaborate on what you mean by misaligned brakes when installing? I've done is zillion brake jobs on different cars, Subaru's included. I'm going to try those bushings next. I honestly think the last owner simply destroyed them with worn out struts. The rear lateral link bushings I had to replace right of the bat when I bought the car because it squeaked so much.
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idosubaru, Thank you for this tip, I had not thought about the bushings. My guess is you're correct and I am going to try this next. Everything else has been replaced (ball joints, rack, wheel bearings, struts, etc) and when I had originally bought it the previous owner had been driving on blown out struts for some time.
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I've seen all kinds of weird things with bad tensioners. No telling for sure unless you swap it with a known good one. How old is the timing belt set up? Also you can drain your oil into a clean pan, cover and let settle for 24 hrs. Pour off the old oil and look at the bottom of the oil catch pan. I warm the car up usually and drain after stopping. If the oil is not that old and you kept it clean then putting it back in the engine works. Your simply trying to see if there's tiny bits of metal present. This will tell you if the crank bearings are going bad.