iriejedi
-
Posts
101 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by iriejedi
-
The 2.2 can go into the 99 Outback as well... If 99 you need to use a helicoil for the starter bolt if that Outback has a manual transmission. Also that 90 2.2L needs an intake from a 2.2 that was made from 95 - 98 in order to function and plug into the wiring harness for the car. Preferably one with the EGR intake so you don't get the check engine light. You'll need to bypass the EGR to the head and run it off the plentum instead.
-
PS. "Rump roast" was not the word I used.... Interesting filter. Lol
-
I've done it. I used a CMC machine to make manifold adapter plates so that the original 2.5 intake can be used. Also I needed to shave a few mm of rubber fron the 2.2 timing belt to fit the 2.5 cam and crank gears (those have to be swapped as well) but it works. Kind if shitty in the hole but hauls rump roast above 2800 RPM's. Still not worth it. Gas mileage isn't as good as original 2.5 either. I suppose mine has more tweeking to do but it's much easier to go to the junkyard and get another 2.5. Especially if your's is the non EGR 2.5 variety of 2004 engine. Those are around more and easier than screwing with a custom project unless you just want to play around and whatnot.
-
Sorry guys it's a 2008. Either way from what it looks like the pickup is within the factory sealed hub. Not the axle. Changing an axle shouldn't create ABS problems. Just trying to confirm this and was curious if anyone else has delt with that before. In the older Subaru Legacy's like 2000 - 2004 there where notches on the axle. This is not the case from 2005 and up. As for the "tone ring" Mr Heartless spoke of, that's way old school 90's Subaru ABS.
- 9 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- cv axle replacement
- brakes pulsing
- (and 3 more)
-
Also I am curious if anyone knows if the ABS sensor gets its impulse from the hub or from the axle? This is a 2007 Legacy sedan.
-
The code readers don't give much information as to where the problem is. From what I understand for detailed codes you need special Subaru diagnostic equipment. I thought about buying another CV axle from a different auto parts store in a different town but ended up telling my friend to take it to Subaru to have a true diagnostic on the ABS and what's up. These axles don't look like they communicate with ABS system like the old phase two cars did. My suspicion is the ABS sensor communicates with something inside the Hub.
-
Working on a 2008 Legacy, I just finished replacing both CV axles with good ones from O'Reillys. I'm in a out of the way rural small town and they didn't have two rebuilt ones (I've heard the rebuilt ones are better) so I ended up getting one rebuilt one and one new one. Now I'm having problems with the ABS pulsing when breaking and sometimes getting an error 55 on the instrument cluster display. I inspected the sensors and they appear okay. Has anyone dealt with a similar issue before?
-
GD, so you find the 642 to be more reliable than the 770? Or is there really no difference? I'm going to order something this afternoon and appreciate yours and everyone else's comments. BTW, for some reason I thought most people in this group were fans of the Cometic head gaskets.
-
I have to get an engine together for an 2004 Outback EGR 2.5L. The old engine has a hole in the case. I have a good short block from a 2002 Outback that doesn't have EGR heads so I want to remove the EGR heads and install them on my good short block. I figured it would be best to mill those heads and have any other necessary work done to them before installing on this short block. My question is which company provides the most dependable headgaskets? Cometic? Six Star? Suggestions? Any thoughts and suggestions from people who have learned what's the best route via personal experience?
-
Ya I figured it out 4 or 5 months ago and realized I never posted an update. Thanks guys.
-
This is an old thread that I created and I just wanted to update people that I got the problem fixed. It seems that I had a bad alternator and Armature in the alternator was intermittently causing power spikes and power loss. This created a whole host of problems throughout the car in the transmission in everything else and it took me a long time to figure out because when I tested the alternator it tested fine. Once it ran for 10 or 15 minutes it started throwing all kinds of problems. Alternators in these cars seem to be very important and will create unknown mischievious electrical problems when they fail.
- 6 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- codes p1718 p0700
- p0715
- (and 1 more)
-
On the tenth time I needed to stop flipping the ignition in the on position and wait a second or two for it to honk if that helps you any.
-
I did it just add described, worked great. Idosubaru, reading your list it doesn't talk about opening and closing the driver's door enough times from what I read. For me what was done in my list worked. Thanks everyone!
-
I wasn't the one that locked it a friend was. I went to the junkyard and asked them if they had used key fobs for sale. The guy handed me a big bucket of them and I dug around until I found a Subaru one like these cars have. I actually bought two for like $10. So the first piece of advice worked for getting the alarm to stop. Turn the key off and on off like 4 or 6 times until the alarm stopped. In programming the fob I needed to get in the car close the door hit the unlock button on the door. Then open and close the door one more time after the unlocking button. Following that I needed to quickly turn the key off and on 10 times and leave in the on position at the 10th time. After waiting a second or two the horn honked. Then I hit small button on the fob, open the door close the door and then hit the big button on the fob. Following this when I pull the key out the horn honk three times. Then open the door and shut the door again. That was it she worked.
-
This link is broken. I currently do not have a FOB that is programmed for my car (nor can I figure out how to program another to it) and the alarm is going off and has engine disabled. Neighbors are getting pissed every time I open the door it goes off. I'm stuck without an operational car. How do I shut down the alarm so I can drive the car and reprogram a new FOB? 2002 Outback H4 2.5L manual transmission.
-
Does anybody on here know off the top of their heads if there is a difference between a 2.2 non turbo and a 2.2 turbo transmission? Early 90s Legacy.
-
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with this car? I'm following the post because I've noticed a similar issue with an Impreza from 2006.
-
I'm going to ignite this old post. I got another FOB for this 02 Outback and can not for the life of me get it's horn to make that initial honk that would suggest the car is in program mode. Must have tried it a dozen times. So frustrated....
-
EJ253
iriejedi replied to iriejedi's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Thanks for the confirmation Gloyale! -
Does anybody know if a 2.5L EGR long block from 2004 with (cable driven throttle) will work in a 2005 (drive-by-wire throttle) if the intake manifold is swapped?
-
So I have a spare ej22 shorblock from a 94 Legacy and was wondering if one can build a more dependable Subie (these 2.5's are time bombs!) by placing the ej253 heads from a 2008 Forester on that eJ22 shortblock. Anyone have experience with this sort of Frankenmotor?
-
I jacked the tranny up to install the engine. I did not put the jack on the pan but rather the front bottom side of the transmission on the aluminum casting.
-
So I put another engine into an 09 Outback and now am getting codes that never existed before. It runs and drives around town and through the neighborhood great but under load on the highway it shut down. The codes lead me to believe that there is a automatic transmission issue but that is a completely new situation for this car. Codes p1718, p0700, p0715, p0725 have all come up and it did so while accelerating hard on the interstate so as to merge and change lanes. There is no previous history of that happening in the car. The only thing I thought may have been an issue would have been the drivers side VVT solenoid since the donor engine had some battery acid spillage from the wreck on that side which may or may not have gotten into the electronics. Could this be due to oil temp sensors not operating or the VVT solenoid not performing?
- 6 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- codes p1718 p0700
- p0715
- (and 1 more)
-
I have a 2009 that is knocking, bought a used block and it's a knocker as well. So looking at purchasing a new or rebuilt shortblock. Idosubaru can you tell me more about using turbo headgaskets? Mines N/A and I am curious if I should use a different headagsket than the stock ones when I build the longblock.
-
I recently purchased a 2009 Outback 2.5L with a bad engine knock for a low price. I ended up installing a used 2.5 longblock from a 2008 Legacy. Now that it is together and running I am having troubles with a "stumbeling at idle" issue and running rough at low speeds on my 09. However when I reset the computer the 4 codes I continually get are a missfire on each of the four cylinders. Have you guys seen this before? BTW I purchased the car as a fixer and just put a used 100,000 mile longblock (longblock only) in the car since the old one was a knocker. Did I miss something? Should I have changed out the cam and crank gears? I do not have history on the car prior to purchase and I don't really remember a stumbling when moving it in the driveway prior to engine swap. The misfire codes seem to appear after a little bit of idle or stop and go driving. Runs great at hwy speeds and does not stumble or stall while driving on interstate. Just at stop signs and such.