iriejedi

I hadn't removed any fuel lines for the past 2000 miles it been driven. Ran fine earlier that morning, I started her up and while pulling forward she stalled and would not restart. Once again fuel lines will not create a "NO SPARK" issue. Guys, when I say no spark I really am being honest with you. I understand the difference I promise.

Thanks Lucky, it seems to be a no spark issue not an air/fuel problem. I will try swapping out the mass airflow sensor later today.

I replaced both cam and crank senors with other sensors I had around. Even tried swapping the Ignition Control Module/Ignitor as well as the alternator. Don't know why an alternator would create a no start but the battery wasn't charging well. Also charged the battery again since it went dead making start attempts.

I'm having the same problem on my 96 ej22. I haven't tried swapping my mass airflow sensor but did everything else you've done. Even swapped the alternator. I'm interested in hear your resolve.

I replaced both cam and crank senors with other sensors I had around. Even tried swapping the Ignition Control Module/Ignitor as well as the alternator. Don't know why an alternator would create a no start but the battery wasn't charging well. Also charged the battery again since it went dead making start attempts.

Yes VIN check is how I've found mileage discrepancys in the past. Over the years mileage is recorded during various service intervals. Even different types of Jiffy lube or tire replacement people and stuff seems to show milage.

Thanks guys, after removing the timing cover I found it has not skipped. I believe I have lost spark but not due to timing misalignment. I tried swapping ignition coils and this is not the problem either. I wish I had my code reader handy to see if there is a msg but a friend out of town borrowed her and gone for the weekend.

I have a 96 Legacy with an ej22 engine that I purchased from a friend, he has has owned and driven the car for a while. He sold it to me because the tranny failed and so I removed the engine and tranny together to do the swap. While the engine was out and since it had 240,000 miles on it I replaced the water pump and removed the oil pump. The oil pump had some screws on the back of it that needed tightening again, I've experienced this with other 2.2's so have learned to remove and seal these oil pumps as a result of other cars throwing a rod. I put it back together with the old timing belt and equipment since they were only 40,000 old. Immediately upon restart the car skipped timing on the left cam. I reset the timing again and it ran fine for about 500 miles and then skipped timing on the right cam. I put a known good used timing belt and tensioner on the car and she ran great for about another 1000 miles. This morning when I went out to my car it started fine and when I let the clutch go (possibly a little to fast, she stalled) the car jumped and then quit. Another timing failure. All three times I did the reset I compressed the hydraulic tensioner slowly with a C-clamp and double confirmed everything when set. I am going to replace with a brand new kit this time however in the dozen or more 2.2L Subaru engines I've worked on this random timing skip is completely new to me. Hell I've put worn out belts and other tensioner parts on these engines before and had them run for ever. I've even seen a 94 ej22 driven for thousands of miles without a tensioner, couldn't believe it when I saw it myself. This constant skip has never happened with the engine by the previous owner so seems to be quite unique. Has anyone else ever experienced a consistent timing skip before?

Awesome thanks guys!

Having a hard time finding the threads which discuss how to circumvent getting a check engine light when one has done a 2.5L to 2.2L converstion on a 98 Outback. The donor engine came from a 95 Legacy which had a manual transmission and therefore no stock EGR setup. My 98 Outback has an automatic transmission so I doubt swapping the computers will do any good. I thought I read a topic on this last year.

Ya this is a great junk yard item! Easy to pull as well.

Definitely save yourself unwanted trouble in 20,000 to 40,000 miles and replace the water pump when you do all the other pulleys and belt!

I have a 1996 2.2 L engine which I'm currently resealing for a 1998 2.5 Outback engine swap. I was thinking I ought to change the headgaskets while there. No history on the engine, came out of a wrecked Legacy. It's just there is white powder frosting around the drivers side headgasket, back of the topside, rear, and back of the underside. Also an obviously heavy oil pan or oil pump leak. Should I replace these headgaskets based on a hunch or should I run it and find out. The engine only has like 119,000 miles. Also I am curious about the BECK/ARNLEY kits. RockAuto has a special on their full headgasket set kits.

Just wanted to let everyone who paid attention know this car has been running great for a while. Not really sure if they had been casting flaws or stress cracks but I did tighten two of the three oil pump screws and lock tight them back down. Put everything together and ran with it. Should anyone be following the post the biggest take away I learned is to inspect the oil pump when you have this stuff all apart. I read one guy's post somewhere that 40% of the screws tend to loosen up on the oil pump. Made sense to me, now I'm going to always inspect oil pumps when doing a belt job. It was also easy to use the Ultra Gray silicone to seal everything back up with the new o-ring in place.

Was just reviewing this post since I am getting ready to do the water pump on a 1998 Forester 2.5L DOHC engine. It was mentioned that the two piece tensioner is better, I have several of these laying around from my 2.2L Subaru's but would need to get a new pulley for that. John (see post above) do you recommend one goes with the two piece option if needing to replace a water pump anyway? Is this tensioner the only part difference in the 1996 & 1997 kits opposed to the 1998 kits? Also I've had crappy luck on the Dayco kits so was thinking of getting a Gates belt and new water pump while reusing the other pulley's since the bearings seem to be in really good shape. I believe the last guy just failed to replace this water pump when replacing the belt and pulley's.

The engine uses oil, it does not go through coolent. Probably takes a quart every 300 to 450 miles. Sea foam isn't a bad idea. I've never tried it In the oil so not sure if that will make a difference but couldn't hurt. I will also check the PVC valve and let you know, this sounds like a solid idea!

I have a 1993 Subaru Legacy that has a strong engine but it smokes intermittently (not always but usually) in a big puff when I am traveling down a mountain (I live in Colorado) on the interstate and I begin to accelerate after costing in gear a good ways down to help slow the decent. More recently will also let out a smaller puff of smoke while traveling down the interstate at a constant speed in a more level place like Denver if I start accelerating, although that doesn't happen as consistently. I have replaced the timing belt twice (it's been happening the last 40,000 miles) and understand this procedure as well as have done it on multiple cars. It is definitely not a timing problem. I am curious if the issue is a result of some sort of blow by, rings, or if there is some other possibility such as intake parts/valves that could need replaced? Ideas? I would like to resolve this without having to take the long block engine apart if possible! Overall the EJ22 runs as strong as any I have had and there is no suggestion she is ready to quit. There is roughly 230,000 miles on this well maintained machine.

Okay, the pic just seemed like a deep crack especially with the aluminum chip coming off of it. Power washed the engine, this is the only place I saw that type what looked like a stress crack. Thanks guys!

Has anyone seen a case crack only behind the oil pump? Should I scrap the engine and find another donor? It has 125,000 miles but I do not know any other history other than many oil leaks before tearing down to try and reseal engine.

I'm curious if you replaced the camshaft o-ring on the front drivers side behind the seal and how the disassembling to expose this o-ring goes? Doing the same thing on a leaky engine I picked up for cheap this weekend.

I understand and have changed the seporator plates before, the metal and aluminum ones are the way to go. I use ultra gray permatex on that and the oil pan. Don't use a pan gasket. New valve cover gaskets are used as well. I haven't ever changed out the o-rings behind the oil pump or front camshaft sprocket, both camshaft sprockets are off because I wanted to reseal this before putting back together. Can you go into more detail on front o-ring replacement behind the cam sprocket and your procedure in removing and resealing the oil pump? Thanks a bunch, I do not want to have to take it back apart due to leaks or loose a bearing (throw a rod) again!

I have recently pulled a EJ22 engine to swap into a 94 Legacy that threw the rod. I have removed EJ22 engines a few times on other 2.2L Subies, done timing belts, and it is a fairly simple process. My question is the engine I've found has several oil leaks which I would like to clear up before installing. One of the confusing ones is the Camshaft o-ring replacement. On the back of the engine (passengers side?) it seems like the oil is weeping out of the cover which is bolted down on the head. I understand there is an o-ring in here as well as one on the opposite head in front. Are these o-rings easy to replace and can I get some advise or a link into a string that goes over this? I can't find this process discussed in any depth within the forum.

Also I never removed the torque converter from the tranny. Left it in and unbolted it from the 2.5 flex plate before removal of the old engine. So the reverse was just that, I did use the 2.5 flex plate since the 2.2 had a clutch flywheel situation. Hopefully the tranny will be okay. It moved around a small amount but not much.

Thanks! I figured it all out yesterday. I was mislead by someone telling me to swap over the manifolds but realized what you just said. Put the original stuff back on and installed it. Luckily I saved the canister and bracket from the car the EJ22 came out of so that was simple as well. Whole project was pretty sweet in the end. Outback runs beautiful.

The 95 is a standard and the intake ports from 98 don't match up with 95 heads. Looks like electrical plugs are the same. Can you plug in 95 harness to 98 and run? 970-331-1444 is my cell numbe if that is easier to communicate.