eatmorepossum

You are probably right. The driver side tail light was full of water. I guess i'll use that roof sealant in a caulking tube around the tail light and reseat it. Edit: ended up getting some of this Wattstar Butyl Rope

Hello all, I have deleted the roof rack trim on this car and filled the holes with roofing sealant. I'm still getting quite a bit of water in the hatch. When i pick up the trunk carpet it smells musty and gets wet in the upper left corner. I see water on top of the vinyl mat. It rained hard last night. Here are some pictures. I keep blowing fuses for the horn, the dome light, the cigarette lighter & the shift lock. I have a rear left tail light on order because it seems to have a lot of condensation in it. Any other ideas??

The shop says they have one on the way. Never mind & thanks.

The original harness was thinned improperly. The brat is at shop #3. the ea81t harness is what they told me they were looking for.

Working on a ej22t swap. Does anyone know where I can source a harness? 1985 Brat with a 1994 legacy SS touring wagon engine. Thanks - cj

Thanks, I figured this out when i thought about it. I took this photo today to answer the question you posed. It looks close to the rim & tire. I guess a spacer would fix things? I saw an article that said try putting washers on to determine how much space is needed. I may just sell the wheels and get a different set...

Dernit.

Here is the link to the wheels. They are Offset +40.00mm. Thinking of trying a 5mm spacer. The lugs are properly seated and torqued now. Do you think this will require longer studs?

Well Dagnabbit, I bought some wheels of craigslist for my 96 Impreza Outback Sport. I knew they were a bit big (225/50/R16) but hoped for the best and well you know where this is going. I'm already in this a bit deeper than I'd prefer and thus I'm in dutch with the wife. What are my options to make these wheels stop rubbing on the rear wheel strut towers when i corner and hit minor bumps? Spacers? Forester struts? Lift kit? Here is what wheel-size.com says is supposed to fit my car: 2.2i 144hp 205/55R15 6.5Jx15 ET55 5x100 M12 x 1.25 56.1 205/50R16 7Jx16 ET51 5x100 M12 x 1.25 56.1 225/45R16 7.5Jx16 ET48 5x100 M12 x 1.25 56.1 The wheels I bought were 225/50/R16 Photos of the rub

As a fellow 96 outback sport owner, I'd love to see a photo of your lift!

Hello, I have a BRAT with a 1994 SS turbo Wagon Engine Swap and a 5mt transmission. I am looking for part numbers and info to obtain these two parts: 1. Turbo Pressure Sensor with pigtail connector 2. Wastegate solenoid with pigtail connector I am also looking for a driveshaft. rock auto has NOS for $345. Thanks for any info you can provide on part numbers, correct names or where to find.

I imported this project from Washington State. More photos here: http://tinyurl.com/bluebrat I wish you still lived here so you could help me finish this bad boy!

This is encouraging news! So glad i dont have to say good bye because of draconian red tape! I should've posted here a long time ago!

Hello folks, I'm in a tight spot with the 1996. I am the first owner and it's my daily. It has only 140k miles. I love the car but this may be the end of it. I can't pass NC inspection and therefore I cant pay my taxes on the car until it passes. The trouble is there are five readiness monitors that have to trip on the car. It has no check engine lights, the battery is fine, it starts and drives like a champ. I'm told you can inspect it if one readiness monitor wont trip but not 3. I can find out what the other two are but I know one is the catalytic converter. They tell me to keep driving it, then drive it on the highway, then drive it between 55 and 65 mph for 50 miles, then keep it running when i pull into the shop. None of these things have worked. I've tried multiple shops. This is a state of NC computer used to perform the emissions check I guess and it wont pass if this doesnt start. Does anyone have a clue how I can get past this? Should I take it to the dealer? The shops say they can't do anything either. I hate to EOL the car just because of a computer glitch... My vehicle was rejected for being "Not Ready", what does that mean? On-Board Diagnostic II systems (OBDII) perform self-tests of their various emissions system components utilizing various monitors while the vehicle is driven. Therefore a vehicle that has received a North Carolina emissions inspection result of "not ready" due to recent maintenance or vehicle's battery replacement or disconnection must be driven to reset monitors to a ready status. These components are referred to as "readiness monitors" and identify whether the vehicle's computer has meet the vehicle manufacturer "enable criteria" conditions to run the required "diagnostic tests". The following are suggestions that may help get your monitors to a "Ready" status: Drive your vehicle for several days under normal conditions including some highway driving at the speed limit. Contact your vehicle manufacturer or repair technician and inquire about Recalls, manufacturer applied Extended Warranties, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) regarding the emission control system (research by your VIN). Make sure all thermostats and fuses are working properly. If your vehicle has had an after-market radio, CD player or security system installed, make sure that the wiring is not interfering with connection to the vehicle's computer or battery system. Have a diagnostic analysis performed using an OBDII Generic Scan Tool. You may be able to obtain a copy of your vehicle's "drive cycle" from your vehicle manufacturer. You may also find information regarding your vehicle's "drive cycle" in the owner's manual.

I have a 1985 brat which i bought in mid swap. I have posted the 1985 Subaru Brat Project on here in the for sale section but I've decided to move ahead with it if I can find someone competent. It is the EJ22T with Forged internals from a 1994 Subaru Legacy Touring wagon. Any recommendations in NC or VA would be appreciated. I'm in Winston-Salem. Thanks.

Hey folks, trying to diagnose a problem with my wifes 2006 Outback Legacy Wagon. When starting from a stop, I apply gas & let clutch out. There is a 3 or 4 second delay before the car starts moving. If i rev the throttle before letting go of the clutch it seems to react quickly (as expected). When starting at a stop light on a steep hill (I'm on one every day) this problem is much more obvious as I get the gas pedal to the floor before the car wakes up. Bonus symptom: the car smells like transmission fluid (or something stinky that I think is tf) after you drive it for a while. Any suggestions where to start? Thanks!

Greetings, I did a little work on the 1985 BRAT this weekend. I finally got rid of that pesky EGR valve warning light. Following the advice of others on this forum I learned that the light comes on every 60,000 miles irrespective of EGR status. As wikipidia states, the function of EGR is to reduce emissions: The light comes on to remind you to remove the EGR valve and perform a cleaning procedure that is described in the service manual. Some folks perform this, some ignore it, and some install a delete kit that looks like this: Which ever way you choose to go, this will not reset the light. To do this you must get up under the dash and swap a single electrical connection (at 60k) from Blue to blue to Blue to Green. At 120k you reverse the swap back to Blue to Blue. I performed the swap this weekend and spent a good amount of time under the dash looking at the rats nest to find the appropriate connections. Below are some photos to document the procedure so as to help others. First take the panel off below the steering wheel, to reveal the wiring. The wires in question will be found behind the fuse box area. See the Blue connector behind the fuse box in this photo for the actual location: Once you find this, unplug the cable and locate a similar looking plug in the opposite color. Here is a look at all three plugs. You may need to do some fidgeting to provide enough slack to make the connection. Here is what the final connection looks like: One word of caution. by spending so much time crawling under the dash, I managed to break my step assembly trim component (the plastic thing that says subaru next to the seat). This was a major bummer. Take precautions not to put too much weight on this piece. Cheers, Chris

Yes, I agree, eBay is a potentially dangerous marketplace (as is Craigs List). But when buying old parts, you can't always buy local. There are great protections in place when using paypal as a buyer. A few weeks ago, I bought a NOS fender for my brat. When I received it and unboxed it, I found it was dented. Not really bad... but i paid for a fender in perfect shape. So the seller had trouble negotiating with UPS and getting the shipipng refund and exchange etc... Not my problem. I disputed the sale within ebay/paypal and within 2 weeks I got a full refund AND they let me keep the dented fender... which i'll probably end up using. But always use caution when buying from an individual at a distance. I've had pretty good luck over the last 17 years as an eBay User.

I found this search term finds mostly BRAT parts and eliminates all the extraneous toys, RC Cars, Key chains, dash covers etc. Put the following in the ebay search bar: subaru brat -tamiya -tamya -"hot wheels" -hotwheels -toy -hw -shifter -"hot wheel" -keychain -coverking Link for example

Is there a way to choose a car... say 1985 brat, and list all parts that are in stock/available? The expansion tree is fun to hunt but... would be nice to just see whats left

Wow, this is really inspiring. Looking forward to seeing her put back together. Any tips on finding NOS badges? Cheers!

I'd love a new set as well.

Thanks! Truth be told, I purchased the repainted badge from a local fellow who painted it with acrylics and then clear coated. He did a pretty nice job on it so I decided to save a little time and use his rather than repaint mine. One of these days I may repaint the one I removed and sell it for a few bucks on eBay... for more car parts LOL. Thanks for the tip on the fuel gauge. I'll crawl under there this weekend and have a look. Also, I learned about the EGR light on this forum... will try the reset procedure soon. How will i know if the valve is actually bad?

Congrats and Hello Butch! I have a 1996 Impreza Outback Hatchback. Glad to find another friend with a usable supercar in the Southeast US. Now, how about a picture of this beast!

Here is my 1985 BRAT that I call Shadow. it's all stock except for the Weber and the GM Alternator swap. I've spent the last few weekends detailing and shining. Just in time for non-stop rain here in NC. Kind of depressing to think that I'll have to put Shadow up for the winter soon. You can see my 96 Impreza Outback in the reflection here. Unfortunately, shes not as clean as the BRAT but she runs as smooth as the day I drove her off the lot. I did a little detailing of the engine compartment this weekend. I could spend a bit more time on this for sure! I'd love to detail and wax the underside of the hood. I had the stock 8 spoke wheels sandblasted and painted. I put new lugs on this weekend and shined the tires. ($180 for a set of four 13" Kendas!) Yesterday I replaced the tailgate badge with this restored one. Still several items on my to do list. Lots of shining and polishing. New axles soon. Dented fender replaced with a new one I have in hand. Just needs painted. I have a new dashboard frame for the one i have that is cracked. Need to troubleshoot the fuel gauge. Otherwise Shadow is looking like she'll last a long time.