kidwon

Actually the engine was swapped recently for one I bought that supposedly had only 6000 miles on it. Hard to verify the mileage but it did appear to be new and runs really strong. We inspected the timing belt before installing the engine and it's condition was consistant with a low mileage motor. I did have the timing belt (actually one of the pullys) go on me before and this didn't make that dreadful, this is going to be expensive noise, it just died.

I was almost home from a 110 mile drive today in my 97 legacy GT when the engine died while accelerating from a stop light and it won't start now. It cranks and sounds like it wants to catch but doesn't. I tested the fuel pump and it's working, I also checked all of the plug wires with my timing light and they all seem to be firing. It seems to me the fuel injection isn't working. The only thing strange I've noticed recently is the AT Oil Temp light sometimes flashes repetitively when I first start the car, I'm not sure what that means or if it's related. What are the symptoms of the cam sensor failing? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I'll take a closer look at everything when I can get it in my garage in the next couple of days. I'll start a new thread with my next questions and keep you guys posted with my progress.

There are no more emissions tests here in Colorado, but I am a little concerned about the egr thing. Is there any way to add one to the 2.2?

Well, I'm in. It's an Outback Sport Impreza. I bought it, after hearing it run, for $350. It was rolled so it's pretty banged up but it looks like the only damage under the hood was the cap for the power steering was cracked. It seemed to run strong and the guy told me they had just put a timing belt and pulleys on it. Now the bad news, It's a standard and the Legacy GT I'm putting it in is Auto. How crazy am I?

Looks like this might be my best option, I just got a call from a guy wanting to sell me a wrecked 97 outback with the 2.2 for $500. Could you point me to more info on what I might expect?

After browsing the forums here it looks like the odds of getting out of this cheap or easy are pretty slim. If someone does have a used timing belt for me I'd be really interested. I'd be happy to paypal some funds to cover shipping or whatever seems fair.

It's a 97 Legacy GT with the 2.5. I was on my way back home from Best Buy's black friday sale, driving about 35 mph when it failed. It broke out the passenger side timing belt cover so it was pretty obvious what happened when I opened the hood. I'm fairly experienced and I'm sure I can put a new belt on over the weekend but I'm looking for opinions on whether I can expect valve damage or if there's any thing else I should be aware of before I decide if this is worth fixing. The car is at about 180k and there are a few other minor issues with it. If I can simply put a new belt on and drive it for a few more months or maybe a year, I'll probably do it. But if there's valve work or anything more extensive involved it might just be time for a new car. Opinions?

I've bled it he's bled it, I'm reasonably sure there is no air in the cooling system. The question is, I think the fan should be coming on when the gauge is 1/4 but it doesn't come on until it's 1/2 why?

Well I made it to work (50 miles on the highway) with no overheat. The weird thing is, when I was cruising along at 75mph the temperature dropped back to about where it used to run. About 1/4 of the gauge. When I got off the highway it went back up to halfway. This tells me the fan is not moving enough air between 1/4 on the gauge and just below halfway where it wants to run when I'm not on the highway. I suspected fan problems before when it would overheat when I'd get off the highway. The mechanic mentioned to me that there are two fan speeds. A lower speed when it first warms up and a higher speed when it passes a certain threshold. it seems like it's never coming on for the lower speed but it does come on for the higher speed (about halfway on the gauge). Does anyone know how I could diagnose this or find more detailed information on the cooling fan?

Bad news, it doesn't look like the new head gaskets fixed the problem. I picked up the car today and the temp is still running high. It hasn't overheated yet but I haven't taken it for a long drive on the highway. Just to recap I've replaced the Radiator, cap, thermostat, head gaskets, and I had him do the waterpump while he had it apart. The temperature gauge is sitting at about halfway and I can actually see it go up slightly when I accellerate from a stoplight it then drops back to about halfway within a minute or so. The fans both seem to be functioning ok, at least they're running at the operating temp. My mechanic is stumped, he thinks I should find a used engine and swap it. Seems a bit extreme and besides, I don't really have the money to do that. Any suggestions?

I discovered today that it is bubbling in the overflow while it's running. It's going in tomarrow for new head gaskets. I sure hope it's "good for another 100,000+". Maybe I'll actually have the car paid off by then. HA HA. I'll post when I get it back, hopefully my troubles will be over (for a while).

Actually the car is running at the same warmer temperature with the old thermostat/radiator or the new. In fact I put the original thermostat back in after I changed it because the non-OEM one I got didn't have a weep hole. I tested in my kitchen and it seemed to work okay so I put it back in trying to get the temp back down to normal. It didn't make any difference. As far as the bubbles in the overflow the only time I've seen any is after I've tuned the motor off. I really think the fan used to come on at a lower temp but I didn't really pay that much attention or document it. I also thought the overheating could have been caused by the fan not comming on properly but I'm not sure how to tell, maybe I'll rig up a light to it so I can tell when it comes on. the relays seem fine I pulled all of them out and bench tested them. Is there any way to adjust the activation threshold for the fans within the Onboard computer?

I did read the link you sent, most was review. He took the timing belt cover off and checked the water pump and said it looked alright. He said he checked for exhaust in the radiator by using some kind of infrared detector. I assume thats the sniffer you're talking about. i personally checked all the fan relays and they seem to be ok. I haven't changed the thermosensor yet, but it really doesn't seem like that's the problem. The gauge still works and apperantly in this car there is only one sensor. The only trouble code I got out of it was after I pulled the original radiator and flushed it-p1502 radiator fan function problem. The code never repeated after it was cleared, I think there may have been a little water in the fan motor or something, just a fluke. The primary fan seems to come on when the gauge is almost to halfway. I'm not really sure when it's supposed to activate but like I said before the car is definitely running warmer than it was before. I can hardly believe it's the head gasket myself because the car runs so good. I even seem to be getting about the same mileage as before. I plan on taking the car back to him on monday and insisting he does the head gaskets. I hate to have to spend the money but I work about 50 miles from home and I need the vehicle. I just hope it cures the problem.

Well 89 views and no one seems to doubt it's the head gasket except my mechanic. I'll give the guy credit he doesn't want me to spend the money if I don't have to. He doesn't understand how it could be the head gasket without affecting the compression or evidence of exhaust in the radiator. Any suggestions how i can convince him?