presslab

Yes I've had the same leak from the plastic below the windshield. The other hard to find leak came from cracked sealant inside the rain gutters on the roof.

Yeah, thanks. Luckily I have a business shipping account, so the return shipping was only half of what Rock Auto charged me for shipping. I got off easy I guess.

I didn't realize this, but I just wanted to give others a heads up. I ordered a half shaft from Rock Auto for my GL10 and when I received it, it was for a Legacy. The part is listed as fitting, but it's obviously wrong. Rock Auto is not paying for the return shipping. Yes, it was their vendor that messed up their interchange list. But as a supplier I feel they have a duty to sell parts that fit regardless of where they get them from. Anyway, I've never needed to return a part to Rock Auto but now I know (and you too) the risk taken when buying from them.

Frankly I haven't paid them any attention since I put them in. There are no funny noises or looseness. Just got new tires (Yokohama AD08 R), still handles awesome. Old tires wore perfect! I'll take a peek and let you guys know if the bushes are wearing at all. A uniball will work fine I imagine, just be noisy and clunky! The reason urethane is used is due to their ability to be firm yet flexible. In all sorts of suspensions the rotational axis is not the same as the bushing axis, not really a problem. On the radius rod I have installed a steel sleeve the same O.D as the bar over the threaded part; this is what allows everything to stay clamped together, so this not a problem either.

Yes the coolant needs to keep flowing to allow the thermostat to regulate the engine temperature. There are a few options. You can install couple tees and do a bypass; you can restrict that bypass somewhat but not that much. You can get a Tom Shiels thermostat housing and use this for the bypass. Or you can use a 4-port heater valve that allows fluid to flow around the heater core when off. On my Vanagon conversion I have a simple bypass, and the heat is still decent.

Yeah I assume these sleeves are really thin sheet metal (like the Speedi-Sleeve), meant to restore the sealing surface when it's worn or damaged. They just press over the original surface with a bit of bearing retainer adhesive. They're thin enough that the seal still works fine (maybe a bit tighter). I can understand the torque converter, because it has a large seal in the front diff housing. But the input shaft I'm not so sure, it just has a static o-ring. The input shaft does have a couple wear surfaces against some bronze bushings, but if this were worn out the bushings would wear faster and be the replacement item.

Is there any side to side movement of the rear diff pinion flange? Does it turn smoothly? Did you check the fluid level? If you remove the driveshaft altogether and drive it (tape a paint can cap over the transmission) does it vibrate? Your tire situation is not ideal, and could damage your center diff / viscous coupling. The front and rear diff do not have a viscous coupling so these can handle a bigger difference in tire size. So swap one new front tire with one old rear tire.

I'd start by looking at the pitch stopper mount at the top of the trans on the bell housing.

The oil pump in the trans is probably FUBAR. You can swap the oil pump housing from the old trans, but you'll need to do more disassembly. Look at this PDF: https://www.xcceleration.com/trans/4EAT_Phase_II_Automatic_Transmission.pdf You'll also need to use the diff and housing that went with the old pump. Not sure if you're up for going in that deep into the trans...

Ah I didn't think about the plastic pulleys, those must have a magnet in addition to the one in the sensor. I know the metal pulleys don't have a magnet. Anyway hope you figure it out.

The sprocket doesn't have magnets, the sensor has a back bias magnet; this is why you see old sensors will metal filing stuck to them. Might be just a flaky cam sensor. Hook a scope to it and check it out.

I'm going to say that the cam sprocket (trigger wheel) for the cam position sensor is different.

Where was it scribed at? Normally it's stamped on the outer edge, like "S 37:9 xx xxx". The "49" probably has something to do with the pinion depth.

My JDM trans has a 4.11 with the larger torque converter, mated to an EJ25D. So yes, this was available in JDM. Make sure both oil pans are the same depth, some early ones were different. There is a different filter screen and dipstick for each pan as well.

You should be able to read the stamping on the ring gear through the drain plug hole. You'll need to rotate it into position. Make sure it's not in park and do as mentioned above, hold one stub shaft and turn the other.

Here's a photo of my "splitter", I think it helped, certainly not worse. Also pictured is the resistor I used to drop the pump voltage down, it's for the DRL on a 2005 IS300 and it's about 1 ohm; this runs the pump at 9 volts most of the time. And finally I attached the code that engages the "5th injector" relay to run the pump full speed when under boost. PORT5 equ $000D ssmBoost equ $1341 counter equ $115D highThresh equ $8F00 ; set to 0.8 bar, $C4 lowThresh equ $8F01 ; set to 0.5 bar, $AA timeout equ $8F02 ; word, set to $5F28 (about 2 minutes) org $C203 ; replace purge sol code assume m:1, x:0 bbs #1, $11C0, checkBoost ; make sure engine running clb #$80, PORT5 ; set pump output off ldx #0 ; clear counter stx counter rts checkBoost: ; check if boost above threshold lda A, ssmBoost cmp A, highThresh bcc notAboveThresh notBelowThresh: ldx #0 stx counter ; above threshold, so restart counter notAboveThresh: ldx counter cpx timeout ; timeout bcc pumpActive ; branch if counter < timeout bbc #$80, PORT5, end ; pump not on, so don't check ; check if boost below threshold lda A, ssmBoost cmp A, lowThresh bcs notBelowThresh clb #$80, PORT5 ; set pump output off rts pumpActive: inx ; increment counter stx counter seb #$80, PORT5 ; set pump output on end: rts

Could be a leaking fuel injector or it's o-ring. Don't want to run it like this for long, it can dilute the oil and damage the bearings. Take it back to the dealer...

Is your '90 motor from an auto or manual trans? If I recall those had either white top or gray top injector depending on trans... The red top were used from '92- and are pretty close in flow to the ones you have. You could also put a '92 ECU in there, it's a different design internally but will plug in and will match the red tops.

It's pretty much in the bowels of the trans. To remove the forward drum everything needs to come apart except the valve body. Might as well put new clutches in while it's apart, too. No special tools needed though, except a gear puller and a 35mm socket. The FSM has very good instructions.

So when you hooked up the gauge you also added more refrigerant? Or was this the last time you charged the system a month ago? I assume it was working correctly a month ago? You really should be charging by weight. But this requires you to evacuate the system and then add just the right amount back in. The TXV is a metering device but it operates continuously. It adjusts the flow of refrigerant to get the right temperature at the evaporator. It can fail various ways but one failure mode is that the low side pressure will vary greatly with engine speed.

Seems like your TXV isn't working. To really diagnose it you'll need a full gauge set, and you should be charging by weight. But I guess you could just replace it and see what happens.

I doubt it's that o-ring on the input shaft... That is fluid for the torque converter lock-up release circuit. Most likely it's a bad outer seal on the forward clutch apply piston. http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/powertrain-pro/many-changes-subaru-4eat

2nd and 4th gears are both selected by the brake band. Sounds like yours is toast, so you'll need another transmission. You could try adjusting it, worth a shot I guess. If it was just slightly slipping I'd say this would work but I think it's too late for you, sorry. Here is the adjustment procedure: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/band.pdf

I thought I'd bump this thread to see if you could help me with a couple questions. How hard was it to remove the evaporator/expansion valve? Can I get to it under the dash? Did you end up finding the right part and if so what was the part number? Thanks!

Thanks! I'll check out that heat tape. My trans is out right now as I'm rebuilding it but it's almost done. While I had the downpipe out I'm wrapping it too. Yes it's just a cheap BOV, the sound does bother me. I tried to hook it up to recirc but I couldn't get a hose routing I liked. The engine management is an older JECS 4-plug ECU, so it doesn't care so much, and with an automatic I get WOT shifts so the BOV doesn't open. I guess recirc would get me better mileage. I've done a couple other interesting additions to this, a "splitter" to help get the air flow up under the bumper beam and I also added some code to the ECU to change the AWIC pump from low to high speed depending on boost. Actually once it goes to high speed it stays there for couple minutes.