presslab

5th gear is 10% different so a decent change. But 1st and 2nd are only ~3%, I doubt you will notice much. Do those two vehicles have the same diameter tires?

I always thought it would be fun to do an ECU. There is of course the Megasquirt, but it's pretty stone age in it's technology. Features I'd deem important are wideband o2, boost controller, drive by wire support, knock sensor (with software adjustable filters), high speed datalogging, CAN, etc., to name a few. Some kind of hard real-time OS would be great, maybe FreeRTOS.

I love the 4EAT. It's super strong and works pretty well. The torque converter with the EA82T has a nice high stall speed, it's like having a 2:1 low range. Check the trans fluid to see if it smells burnt or is black. Put some on your finger to see if there is clutch material in it. There is a lot of wiring for the 4EAT, but nearly all of it goes to the TCU. Only a half dozen or so wires connect to the rest of the car. The TCU is located behind the side panel on the driver's side behind the rear seat. However I think the wiring is intertwined with the rest of the car so you'll have to strip it out the harness. You probably don't need to change out the cluster or the ECU.

It's probably the same rod, just the other end of it. Push the rod all the way forward with a pen or something that you can stick in the hole. For some reason it seems like your manual valve has become disconnected from the shift lever. I'm not sure why, you'll need to figure that out so it doesn't happen again. It's normally not easy to reattach that rod, you'll have to drop the valve body.

I use Valvoline MaxLife DEX/MERC. It's synthetic and pretty cheap on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B000CQ262C

The internal bearings are lubricated by the oil in the system. If you have no reason to think that there is too little oil (a blown hose for example) then it's likely the compressor is bad. Running with a bad compressor can send metal shavings throughout the entire system which makes it a nightmare to clean, aka "Black Death".

First clean the material to get all the dirt off. Then wipe food-grade silicone on it to seal up the pores. It doesn't have petroleum in it so it won't attack the plastic/rubber. http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Industries-03040-Grade-Silicone/dp/B00192D0TQ

I just put in the Superior shift kit for the RERO1A. It's a bit different than the Transgo one in what it does, although a lot of things are similar. I did the "Heavy Duty" option for drilling the valve body and boy is it firm! The 1-2 shift was quite harsh at light throttle so I put the original 2A accumulator spring back in. I've heard the Transgo spring has this same problem. It's very nice now, shifts like it means it. I'll post a video later to give you an idea. http://www.superior-transmission.com/Product_Page.cfm?ID=43 https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2fvkpmNXeMwTXhfbDZPZWhWbW8/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2fvkpmNXeMwMkpRcFpaMFVxWlU/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2fvkpmNXeMwQXJqeEJlTklHVTg/edit?usp=sharing

I wouldn't be so sure. While the UltraVan is a lot longer than my Vanagon, it seems to be about the same weight. My old EJ22 was acceptable at 137HP, and my now EJ25 pulls it with ease. I can't say for sure which has better aerodynamics, the UltraVan has more frontal area but is more curvy than the Vanagon. I'm looking at using the 4EAT in my van, and the 4.44 is too tall still; 65 MPH would be only 2700 RPM. Stock the Vanagon has 4.86 and turns about 3800 RPM at 65 MPH. It's a bit high, yes, but not ridiculous. I believe the drive by wire engines are a whole 'nother ball of wax. Like they are intimately intertwined with the ABS computer. I know some of the Vanagon guys are working to figure this out, but with the newer drive-by-wire engines I think most go with aftermarket engine management.

The Legacy SS trans is special. It is stronger than the normal ones. Here is a quote from Subaru: Off the top of my head to replace that washer you'll need some sealant (I use Loctite 518), the oil pump gasket 31339AA122, extension gasket 31337AA120, pinion nut 802622020, and the washer 31299AA000-AA060 depending on thickness.

There is a separate needle thrust bearing for the rest of the gears, that plastic washer only supports the reverse drum.

One important thing to consider is that the exhaust CFM is at least double the intake CFM due to thermal expansion. PV=nRT and all that jazz. 3" sounds about right.

There are so many different compressors, it's tough. First measure the length of the compressor, you can go from bolt to bolt. Then make sure the ports are in the same spot/angle. Finally you can measure the port diameters, they can be a few millimeters different. The wiring is not as big of a deal, and if yours has the temperature switch you can usually swap it to the new one or just bypass it. As far as pressures, etc, it's the length of the compressor that determines how much it pumps. If it's a different length it won't bolt up. So if it bolts up you should be good in that regard.

There is a plastic thrust washer that is on the trans oil pump, it supports the reverse drum. It's 2.8" in O.D. by 0.065" thick. There shouldn't be much thrust force on the reverse drum, so it might be okay to run without it, but it will be metal-on-metal. If it were mine I'd take the trans apart and give it a once over. It's the first thing you will see once you get the oil pump housing off.

I have something like this for pilot bearings: http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Pilot-Bearing-Puller/dp/B000X282DM Without the pilot bearing the input shaft not supported enough, it could be what caused the seal in the trans to leak.

Separator plate! Next to the rear main seal. My EA82T gushed from this.

The automatic action is retained, it works as usual when not in paddle shift mode. Now for an update: I upgraded the trans recently with 4.11s, high stall torque converter, and valve body mods for improved shifting. It's awesome. The trans just clicks through the gears with no hesitation, the car lunges forward on the shift to 2nd. One previous limitation of the paddle shifters was engine braking in 1st gear. Depending on the selector position it would either have gears 1-4 and no engine braking in 1st or it would have gears 1-3 and engine braking in 1st. I sought to remove the limitation above and after poring over the diagrams I've done it by modifying the "overrunning clutch control valve". By blocking off the "1st reducing pressure" port and also providing a bleed, it is now possible to select gears 1-4 when the selector is in the "2" position; this also provides engine braking in 1st gear by engaging the low clutch. Yes, that's JB Weld in the valve body passage. The end plug also has a small hole drilled in it.

Put a larger nut over it and weld it on with a MIG?

I found this comparison of EJ25/EZ30R dyno results. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30700503&postcount=22

That's a cool looking rig. I have a Vanagon Westfalia with a EJ25. I weighed it and it's 4800 lbs. It has decent power and can do over 100 MPH on the flats, easily doing 75 MPH on the freeway. I get 21 MPG going 70-75 MPH. Other Vanagon owners with the Subaru H6 engines complain about mileage, so if that's a concern you might want to lean to the 2.5. If you don't care about that so much and just want the torque go for the 3.6. Another thing to consider is the strength of the transaxle. My Vanagon manual transaxle really can't handle the torque; I only got 35k mi out of a rebuilt transaxle. Hopefully my new beefed-up one will do better. I'm not sure how much more/less wind resistance the Ultra Van has vs a Vanagon, that's something to consider.

Hmm, looks like you should fill through the vent plug.

It shouldn't be able to draw a vacuum even with air in the system, it sounds like your radiator cap is bad.

I squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to get coolant into the engine, it works to burp the air out. Worst case you can remove the upper radiator hose and fill the engine up through that. When you say overheat in the driveway, did it get into the red zone? It will run hotter in your driveway than on the road. The radiator fan should kick on before it gets too hot though.

I tried it like this at first, as everyone said it's the "correct" way to do it. Even in the moderate California climate the transmission was over-cooled. If the temperature was near freezing the trans would take a while to get into 4th gear, and forget about the torque converter ever locking up. These features are in the TCU to improve the warm up of the transmission; it's a good thing to warm up the trans fluid, it improves the fuel economy/emissions and the wear in the transaxle. I the wintertime with the external trans cooler BEFORE the radiator cooler, the radiator will be able to warm up the transmission fluid after being over-cooled. In the summertime it's not a problem either; the external cooler will do the bulk of the cooling and the radiator cooler will still shed some heat if it's above the coolant temperature. I don't see any downside.

Sorry I don't know anything about the Skunk2 coilovers. But those wheels look great on that car, they fit the styling perfect. What size tires?