presslab

Yeah that camber is pretty bad, I'm betting something is bent. I think Jeszek posted about his bent knuckle causing a camber problem. Stock the EAs have a touch of positive camber, the other way from yours.

I wouldn't worry about taking it on the highway, there's nothing that will "break in" with a head gasket change. Just keep a keen eye on it for any leaks during the next week or so.

The first law of thermodynamics states that energy is not created or destroyed, it just changes form. So all things being equal either scenario would be a wash because the energy needing to be dissipated is the same. But they won't really be equal exactly. For example, running an external trans cooler will allow the body of the trans to be cooler. So in this case less heat will be dissipated by the trans and more in the cooler, actually slightly increasing heat up front. For towing, I'd certainly say an external trans cooler is needed. Really any Subaru automatic should have an external trans cooler to get the best life. You could mount it somewhere not in front of the radiator, like in front of the front tire. Maybe get creative and cut some exhaust vents in the splash shield. I personally hook it up as follows: trans outlet->external filter->external cooler->radiator cooler->trans inlet. A separate trans cooler thermostat is not a bad idea either but I find my setup keeps the trans cool enough (and warm enough in the winter too).

Yeah, that's why you hear people say that the high side pressures are higher with R134a. Because the R134a needs a higher pressure (at the same temperature) to become liquid, that means it's harder work for the condenser and/or compressor. High side pressure isn't on the chart, but you can imagine the temperature difference at the typical ~250 PSI. If you reduce the pressure in the system (by charging with 80% volume for example) then the low side suffers because now the pressures are too low there. The TXV in our cars can compensate a lot for pressure imbalance, and that makes it more tolerant to R134a retrofit. Other cars (typically domestics) use an orifice tube which doesn't work so well when pressures are off.

I'm glad it works well for you, and filling it will less refrigerant doesn't sound like a bad idea in this case. R134a is certainly an option for those that are afraid of hydrocarbon refrigerants. R134a is a "super greenhouse gas" and can react corrosively with moisture. Filling it with a different volume of refrigerant does not change the fundamental vapor pressure. You can see the differences here: http://www.refrigerantguy.com/PTC.htm The Legacy has a larger cooling capacity (BTU/hr) system than the Impreza.

So the boot on the steering rack is full of power steering fluid? That means the seals have failed in the rack, and it's not just the boot; normally there is just grease under the boot and not fluid. You need to replace the rack. The MWE rebuilt axles are good. http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/

They call that rod a "manual valve" because it's attached to the part you move by hand manually. In the absence of your pics I've taken a few of a trans I have apart here. Is the clip you found like the one in the photo? How about the rod in the valve body that moves out, is that the one in the other photo?

Only the full-on racing Subarus came with front LSD; none of the EAs had one. Most don't have rear LSD either. What is wrong with your trans?

Yeah, in a place like Florida you'll want to fix it for the long term! I recommend one of the hydrocarbon refrigerants like ES-12a; they work at pressures more similar to R12. R134a systems have different TXV and switches because the pressures are different. The R134a condenser is larger because the specific volume is larger. Rather than change all that, or have 20% reduced cooling, it's easier to use one of the alternative refrigerants. If you flush it all out and start clean I'd use double-end-capped PAG oil; POE oil doesn't lubricate as well, and can coke (break down/burn) if it gets too hot. You might consider replacing the TXV as well, at the least remove it and clean it out really well. This may be the source of your problems right now.

Oh the manual trans it's the whole thing. On the automatic it's the just the final drive (aka front diff).

These trannys have a clutch for reverse and not a band. The only band is for gears 2/4. It's possible your part is the clip that helps keep the manual valve on the selector shaft. With the pan off, have someone shift the trans while you watch. You will see the arm inside moving. The end of the arm should be slipped into a U-channel on a long rod (manual valve) that goes into the valve body. Can you see that rod moving in and out while moving the shifter?

Yup, most pumps I've pulled off have a loose screw or two.

When I went to buy an EA82 windshield the glass guy told me it would cost him $24. Too cheap, he said don't get it! I've had friends with Safelite in their car and it had the annoying distortion. I'd say go with Pilkington or PPG/PGW. I put my own glass in. So often the careless installer scratches the paint with the removal knife and doesn't primer it, then 2 years down the road the hidden rust finally comes out and it's bad.

I apologize for that. Although everyone seems to repeat that the crank sensor is used for spark timing, everything I see shows the opposite. I really would like to understand the truth behind this, so any references you have would be appreciated.

Yes, you need to get the CEL code. Does the engine sound quiet? If it's got tappet noises you should check the valve lash. The knock sensor is a microphone, it could be hearing other noises and thinking it's knock.

What do you mean as tight as you can get them? Tighter than the 0.2mm minimum spec? It probably depends on the line pressure in the trans if it's prone to torque bind or not. If the trans is worn out and doesn't shift firm (low line pressure due to worn seals) then you would want to set them up on the tighter side. Checking the housing is a good idea. In mid-97 they came out with an updated housing with a steel liner to prevent this grooving.

There's no doubt a lot of hype in this world. A generally accepted rule of thumb is that raising the compression one point increases horsepower 3-5%.

No offense, but is this something you learned on an internet forum, or something you learned from a Subaru technical manual? There's no point in parroting untruths... If from a technical manual, I would appreciate a reference. It's not as simple as you say. The link below shows how a slipped timing belt messes up the spark timing. That doesn't agree with your statement. http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/SSM_params_analysis.html

It's usually sold as a full set frictions and steels, pn: 31523AA410, about $115. Selling them individually at that price is crazy.

Well, I beg to differ. Anyway, yes weld a bung on and put a sensor in. For anything other than a pure race car it makes a whole lot of sense.

Being that your on a budget, how about a JDM motor? There are a lot more JDM EJ25s out there though. I've been quite happy with my JDM motors, they don't leak or burn anything.

When you say low idle, is it less than 750 RPM? If working properly, the computer controls the idle speed and you can't change it. You probably have a vacuum leak. A possible spot is the crankcase breather below the throttle body; the hose cracks. A telltale is a dirty spot there where the oil has come out the crack in the hose. How many miles? It probably wouldn't hurt to clean the injectors either.

Yes the dealer ones are expensive, but then they include the steels whether you want them or not. I generally aim for the high side of clearance (0.6mm) to lessen the torque bind.

Okay, sounds like it's not working right. Here's the diagnostic procedure: http://www.seccs.org/tech/1998%20Legacy/Service%20Manual/DIAGNOSTICS%20SECTION/ENGINE%20COOLING%20SYSTEM/MSA5TCD98L21310.pdf

Sounds like the trans is starting to go. Replacing the fluid can sometimes make things worse, unfortunately. You can adjust the brake band external to the trans, it's responsible for 2nd and 4th gear.