presslab

You didn't say what kind of car. Turbo and non-turbo have different fan systems.

There are different sized pressure plates depending on what you need. They are expensive though, about $45. Did you replace the steels too? Maybe you can use your old steels. You should have 0.2-0.6mm of clearance when new, wear limit 1.6mm. 31593AA151 3.3mm 31593AA161 3.7mm 31593AA171 4.1mm 31593AA181 4.5mm

Something in your engine is making a noise that is tripping the knock sensor.

Did the engine start fine in the donor vehicle, or is this unknown? No codes I assume? Is the starter switch input connected to the ECU? Do you see any RPMs on the scan tool while cranking? There's always the diag stuff in the Subaru manual. I attached something for a H6 3.0L Tribeca, maybe it's similar to yours. Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure.pdf

That won't polish out. It looks like just behind the original wear mark the crank is good. Maybe you can drive the new seal in a bit further (but not too far to block the drain port) to allow the main part of the seal to ride on the clean part of the crank. Measure some stuff with a depth gague to see if this is an option. For next time you remove a shaft seal use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/

Subaru has a procedure for doing the band adjustment on the car. They wouldn't write a procedure if they didn't think it was worthwhile to adjust the band. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/transmission/band.pdf In tight situations where I can't turn a wrench with enough strength, I'll use a small pry bar to apply the force to the wrench.

On your Legacy there isn't any kind of timer, it's more indirect. There is a pressure switch that when the pressure gets too low it will cut off the compressor for a bit until the pressure comes up. Under normal operation if it's not working hard that switch will trip causing the compressor to cycle; this is normal. It's possible that your Legacy is actually a bit low on refrigerant causing it to cycle more than it should. Now on the GL-10 it has the same setup. I suspect that the pressures are different enough to not trip this for some reason. So you could play around with the pressures, or you could add an electrical thermostat to the evaporator coils to cycle the compressor. Like the one shown below. http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Temperature-Control-Capillary-Thermostat/dp/B00902EX20/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y By the way I'd recommend leaving the A/C hooked up in the winter as it makes for great defogging. Also the system will last longer and be happy if you run it every once in a while during the wintertime.

I thought I'd update this thread. I recently had some noise in my tranny that I thought was the oil pump. I changed a bunch of things, but it looks like a bearing in the torque converter failed. Now I can't say for sure that the adapter plate caused this, as I was sending a lot of power through that old EA82T torque converter, but I thought it was worth mentioning. I now have a newer bellhousing and a WRX torque converter. Thanks go to Gloyale for his write up about the bellhousing. Bummer though, the stall speed sucks; much lower than the EA82T one. I can't brake boost it at all now. I guess that makes sense as the EA82T one was designed for only 115 HP. Anyway, I'm going to drop the tranny again and have the torque converter rebuilt with a higher stall speed. I'm leaning toward IPT and 4100 RPM stall.

Yeah my stubs move around a bit too. I'd say as long as the seals aren't leaking I wouldn't worry about it. I did a quick google search and I found this video. He didn't have any luck tightening up his axles by adjusting the diff. That's because the diff isn't the reason the axles are loose. By tightening the one side he adjusted the backlash of ring and pinion and the preload on the carrier bearings. These are fairly precise things that should be adjusted with care. Is your movement more than shown in that video? In the video it didn't look unusual to me. To properly adjust the backlash of the diff carrier you'll need to tear into the trans. At the least you'll need to remove the tail housing so you can turn the pinion. There's no need to do this as it's not something that needs to be adjusted as long as it's built correctly. I have had plenty of fresh reman axles make noise.

Yes, I'd say just about a half inch. It's the bolt diameter plus a few millimeters.

I'd guess there would be a little friction from the additional length, but I'm sure it's pretty negligible. My Vanagon has a high compression EJ25 in the rear with stock pump & thermostat. No cooling problems whatsoever. The radiator in the front does indeed have a bleeder screw up at the top.

I agree it's probably some bigger problem. But you could always try adjusting the brake band, it's not that hard to do on the car. Loosen the lock nut a few turns while holding the adjuster. Then thread in the adjuster until it's just snug. Subaru recommends something like 3 turns out from snug, the Transgo kit recommends 1.5 turns out. Then tighten up the lock nut.

Thanks! Well, I do have a TD05-16G at 19 PSI... That might explain the torque converter problem. This new one should be stronger anyway. Tomorrow I'm going to move the LSD chunk to the 4.11 pumpkin.

Well it's mostly back together. The speedo cable broke, the plastic was brittle from sitting next to the turbo, so I'm still waiting for that. I ordered the newer style that's metal, hopefully it fits. I also need to swap my LSD into the 4.11 R160. I drove it anyway, FWD mode. The whining noise is gone, and it shifts great. It must have been the torque converter because the oil pump looked perfect, and I didn't mess with the valve body. It now has the WRX torque converter. Also I upgraded the rear mount to the newer '96+ style. This meant I needed to use the newer tail housing as it's different than the old ones. With the new mount the trans sits a little higher so the trans then hit the tunnel, so I "massaged" it. A little more ground clearance I guess isn't bad. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Hmm? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127926-more-caster-and-camber/?p=1091573

The EJ ECU fan control is pretty nice. I have this wired up along with a higher temp thermoswitch. The ECU fan control works when the engine is running, and on hot days the thermoswitch will kick in after then engine is shut off to take care of heat soak. You might get rid of the EGR code by using a dummy resistor.

Your EJ has a solenoid for the canister? One of my conversions has one (USDM) and the other (JDM) does not. Was the EA a turbo or not? I've used the EA82T canister with the EJ engine. It's pretty easy to hook up once you figure out where to put the hoses. It also reduces a lot of smog (as much as a cat) without any performance hit.

What's a "rockford"?

TPS sounds about right. I had some problems like that with mine. I fixed it by removing the TPS and spraying potentiometer cleaner (the lubricated kind) inside a crack while turning it.

I've replaced my staked in joints too. After I had a touch of vibration so I carefully measured and re-centered the cups and it's fine now.

I bought a JDM '98 2.5 from these guys in Sacramento. Maybe they have a 2.2 also. The engine was in great shape and runs excellent. http://www.venus-auto.com/

I remember a few years ago having this problem in my '88 GL-10, and I found the 4-Seasons 33445, maybe it's similar to yours. But that one isn't much cheaper than the SOA one, so I'd say you did just fine by going with the factory. The TXV will have a different superheat setting for r134a, so if you're going to run that you might want to change it. I didn't change mine as I use the hydrocarbon refrigerant. POE doesn't lubricate as well as PAG but it's definitely better for compatibility. How did you modify the HVAC controls?

Thanks for the info! I've torn it all apart, and the oil pump looked just fine. I cut apart the torque converter and I noticed that the turbine had a bunch of play in the bearing, like 1/8". The newer model torque converters have an additional bearing there along with the new shaft. So hopefully that's the problem. I looked for that washer on the pinion shaft but I couldn't find it; I see that it's there in the diagram on the older ones. It seems the newer shafts like on my other '98 4EAT doesn't use a washer here. The pinion bearing was perhaps a little notchy, and I can see by the wear pattern the R&P was not setup right by whomever rebuilt it. There were no shims on the pinion, and it still needed to go further in, so I don't know what's up with that. The rebuild was shoddy, I could see where they chiseled off (then reused) the pinion nut, etc., so maybe they just left that transfer gear shim off. Anyway I've decided to just switch to 4.11:1 to help with the turbo lag, and because the old 3.7:1 pinion was worn funny. I swapped speedo gears too. I pulled the gear assembly from the '98 and put it in the '88 trans body. I could see little upgrades here and there, and my clutches/band were fairly worn; the '98 one is JDM and looked great inside. However I left the '88 low clutch as it had 6 plates vs 5. Are there any hidden gotchas with doing this? The newer trans had an anti-drainback valve fitted to the cooler line. This should fix the occasional problem of the car not moving until the converter fills back up. I swapped this to the old case, but I had to modify the banjo bolt as the old case had a deeper bore. The WRX converter seems to fit just fine, along with the WRX turbine shaft. I bought a new shaft as it was only $95 and supposedly stronger than the non-turbo ones. After all this I guess I should have just moved the old valve body to the new case, lol! Oh well. Fingers crossed that it will work when I get everything back together! Should be done in a few weeks, waiting on a few more parts.

The red tops are the same. I've swapped between '92 EJ22 and '98 EJ25D injectors and the fuel trim is unchanged. As mentioned the older grey tops flow a bit different, but it seems it's small enough that the ECU can compensate. My buddy runs grey tops with a ECU tuned for red tops.

The motor in my car is from a '94 JDM WRX with the single turbo, I imagine the twin turbo is similar in this regard. It also has coil on plug. The SVX ones are the same as JDM, just a different length wire. I upgraded to ones from a new USDM STi, it's pretty easy, you'll need to bypass the igniter and put new connectors on. Otherwise they bolt on.