presslab

They didn't log AFR on the dyno?

Here's a couple shots from the inside of the wheel. I built a wireless transmitter with a PIC micro, and I used an off the shelf receiver. The paddles themselves are from a wrecked 2012 Impreza. I'm happy to share the transmitter source code with anyone that wants it; it's pretty simple though.

You probably had a dirty fuel injector leaking down when you turned the car off. Whatever intake valve was open would allow the fuel to dribble in. Or maybe it's something else.

To be clear, with the bushings I have selected, the outer sleeve of the bushing is left in the arms and only the rubber is pushed out. I could almost push the rubber out by hand, but then again mine were worn out and had become de-bonded from the metal. There are also more elegant tools made specifically for this but they are nearly the same as a socket and C-clamp. It was really easy to use the C-clamp, there's no way I would remove the arms to do this; your experience must be different than mine. What bushings have you installed in the trailing arms? Can you get the factory bushings? I know in the front you can not. I see SuperPro also makes bushings but they are pricey with a long lead time. I would certainly check the bushings before doing the alignment. My car has 170k miles, and the bushings were so bad that the arms slipped sideways and it was metal on metal. It would be silly to do the alignment without replacing these bushing (if needed) and then need to redo the alignment again when the bushings fail and are replaced.

You'll need a big C-clamp and a big socket to push the old bushing out. To make the new bushings fit you'll need to grind them down with like a belt sander or angle grinder. If you want to add zerks (don't have to) you'll need a drill and tap of the right size. Other than that it's not hard. You don't need to loosen the bolts for the alignment to do the bushings, so if the bushings are your problem it should be ok.

Maybe you just have bad bushings pulling it out of alignment. I replaced mine with urethane, see below. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132352&page=3#post1122658

I drilled the hubs for 6 lug (with a milling machine) and am using Isuzu Rodeo forged alloys. You can kind-of see them here: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Rm2DFVteSDAIyBQ73HQSfut4bszuSWzHLxcb_sc0RE0?feat=directlink

Good to hear. It would be a good idea to get at the hole on the top side too, the one that connects to the PCV plumbing. If you look to the left of the throttle body you should see some hoses down there, with a pretty big (but short) one coming straight out of the block. Pop off the tee and give it a go with the vacuum.

Here's a photo I took of a junk block. It's upside down, looking at the flywheel side, and you can see the screwdriver poking through that hole. The plate removed is the oil separator plate, it tries to keep the oil out of the intake. If there was towel jammed in that hole it's likely there is towel in that area too. The only way to get to that is to remove the engine or transmission, unfortunately. Maybe you can get most of the towel out with a vacuum. If you can find someone with a borescope you could look up in there as well, looking from both the top and the bottom of the block. I believe that hole will usually have a slight vacuum on it but under full throttle it can be under pressure.

Ugh yes, looks like an errant paper towel was left in the engine. I bought a motorcycle for cheap that had the same thing done to it. I'd say the filter media is more fiberous and tougher than a paper towel. I think it would be really unlikely that the filter would come apart in that manner. The other tube mounted in the pan is a crankcase vent for the PCV system.

I have 205-50R15 on my '88 Wagon. Pretty sure your Brat uses the same diameter tires as the wagons. The speedo is dead on accurate, and no rubbing. I like this size too because there are a ton of very nice tires that fit.

I'm curious to hear how you like the Potenza RE-11s, compared to the Advan AD08, as it looks like you have some time on those too. I've been pretty stoked with my AD08 but it's almost time for another set.

Here's the list of parts I bought when I did my frankie. 800406140 oil separator bolt (qty 5) 800406150 oil separator bolt (qty 1) 11831AA210 oil separator cover (steel) 806786040 rear main seal 806733030 front crank seal 10991AA001 oil pump o-ring 11044AA610 MLS head gasket 1.5mm (qty 2) 14035AA290 intake manifold seal (qty 2) 13294AA012 rocker cover gasket (qty 2) 13271AA051 rocker cover seals (qty 6) 806732150 camshaft seal (qty 2) 806946030 cam cap o-ring (qty 2) 13028AA102 timing belt 13068AA051 timing belt hyd tensioner 13069AA037 timing belt tensioner pulley 13085AA080 timing belt toothed pulley 13073AA142 timing belt smooth pulley (qty 2) 15208AA031 oil filter 21111AA007 water pump 21114AA051 water pump gasket 21200AA072 thermostat 11060AA071 thermostat cover (plastic) 21236AA010 thermostat gasket

I use Subaru OEM gaskets and seals. I suggest you do the same, except for maybe the headgaskets; for me, it's not worth the cost savings only to have to tear it down again. The special Cometic headgaskets don't need drilling, but I can't vouch for their longevity. The rear main seal is the same. If you already have a "brown" Viton seal that's not leaking it might be best to leave it, as installing it correctly is difficult. I measured the thickness of the EJ25D gasket 11044AA610 at 1.5mm uncompressed. I'd guess compressed it will be 1.4mm or so.

Sure? Looks like the clutch coil to me.

That's not a revolution sensor. I'm pretty certain that it's an thermoswitch that will kick off the compressor if it overheats. Not all models have it, either. As long as you confirm the compressor is not getting too hot, I don't think bypassing it is a problem.

I have used RTV on pans before and it seals great... But it bends the poo out of the pan trying to remove it, even with trying to cut all the spots I could get to. Recently I pulled off a pan sealed with 518 and it came off a lot easier.

I love Loctite 518 for lots of stuff, including oil pans.

This works for part time 4WD trannys. Make sure it's out of 4WD, then jack up one rear tire and try to turn it by hand. If it offers little resistance you have a regular (not LSD) diff. If you can only turn it a little way, try putting a wrench on a lug nut and turn it more. If I recall the stock LSDs are set to slip at around 60 ft-lbs. If you still can't turn it maybe you're in 4WD or you have a full time 4WD tranny.

My thought is that the heat cycling is "relaxing" the grain structure in the cast iron, causing the warpage. So even if it had no run-out before use it could get some run-out after heat cycling. And then maybe this run-out will cause depositing of material, I don't know. Sorry I didn't mean anything against you for posting it. Run-out is well defined terminology in metrology, although warpage could mean a lot of things I suppose. On a brake rotor two problems that I would consider warpage would be circular run-out (potato chip braking surface), and perpendicularity (dished braking surface). Mmm, it's making me hungry. http://www.brownandsharpe.com/applications/intro-to-coordinate-metrology/geometric-dimensioning-and-tolerancing Yeah that's a good point. Although the way I read Carroll's article is that he says the deposits cause hot spots which then lead to subsequent run-out. So in his mind he explains away even true run-out (not just thickness variation) as caused by these deposits. He also states these deposits are "more often not" visible. So basically any unexplained warpage is caused by invisible deposits on the rotor. These deposits are caused by using the wrong pads, improper break-in, or stopping with superheated pads allowing them to transfer material. Hmm, all those things are the customer's fault! Oh, that's right, Stop-tech sells brakes so any complaints of warped rotors are not their fault. Makes perfect sense now. We'll never get the true backstory from Carroll as he passed away 10 years ago.

I've seen that article before; must be true, 'cause it's on the internet! He does say "This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures." so he's admitting he sees warped rotors (run-out) but blames it on the material transfer. Which came first, the chicken or egg? Any run-out means the rotor is warped, regardless of how it occurred! It's a contradiction. Anyway anyone who has turned a warped rotor on a lathe (as have I) can obviously see that the rotor has actually warped, and it's not just a high spot from material transfer. I'm not saying that material transfer doesn't happen too, but I'm firmly in the warped rotor camp as I've warped mine more times than I would care to admit. :-\ After extensive thermal cycling (from heavy braking) residual stress that is formed when the rotor is cast is said to cause the rotors to warp; I believe that. Next set of rotors I get I'm going to try the cryo treated ones. The cryo treatment is said to greatly reduce the residual stress in the cast iron.

The two tires in front are the same, as are the two in the back? For testing, you could swap one front and one rear tire, as long as you don't have a LSD rear end. This will make the front to rear ratio the same. The car might pull to the side a bit.

An exhaust fan like in a residential application? That would likely be an induction motor, with no brushes. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/magnetic/indmot.html Cutting any of the windings will cause the motor to work very badly, as the consecutive winds are in series, and cutting just one turn will cause the current to stop flowing. If a few turns are shorted out it's not a big deal. So maybe you can take a soldering iron to the cut windings and solder them all together. A soldering iron will eventually melt the varnish on the wires if you keep it there for a bit, and then you can blob solder on it. This is all assuming that the windings you cut are adjacent, and that's hard to say.

I use this vacuum pump. The CFM doesn't matter on a car system, but the two stages allow it to suck a tighter vacuum. Maybe you can find a two stage pump like this. http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15300-VacuMaster-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B000O1E5UQ/ I opted to flush my A/C system and it's a good thing I did. The green corrosion slime inside was gross. That's probably why my compressor was on it's way out with a rattling; when I did my engine conversion I used the EJ compressor. Has your A/C system been left open for any length of time? If so I'd recommend flushing the system and at the least replacing the dryer. You can also reactivate the dessicant in the dryer using your baking oven, but the Mrs might not like that. I used a '98 Legacy compressor, and I found an Impreza suction line that fit perfectly in my '88 wagon, attached at both ends just fine. On the discharge line I TIG welded the old pipe to the EJ pipe. I kept a wet rag near the rubber hose part and it didn't get damaged.

Yes, winter fuel is oxygenated. The oxygen displaces the hydrocarbons and lowers the amount of energy in the fuel, which translates to worse MPG. But you guys are looking at this all wrong, winter fuel typically has higher octane rating and the oxygenation itself creates more power too! My EJ20G swap automatic gets 25 MPG highway (70 MPH) and maybe 15 MPG city.