presslab

Yes. You will need to move the parts I mentioned, the intermediate shaft with gear (the upper one), the whole thing should slide out with a bit of prying. And the lower gear, you'll need a gear puller for this, and a new pinion nut. Make sure to mark the gear teeth mating before you pull them apart so you put them back together with the same teeth touching. And then of course use the FWD rear cover. This won't cause a problem, but you'll need to keep the output shaft in place and somehow cap the end so the fluid doesn't leak out.

I've read that the R&P in the 4EAT already uses the "coast" side of the R&P gears for "drive", so maybe it will make it slightly stronger to reverse it? I need to check this out. There is no reverse R&P set available for the 4EAT that I know of. I even have a spare 5MT in the shed but I've decided on the 4EAT. Smallcar has mentioned working on a reversed chain drive, and the guy in Australia is working on something too, but there is nothing available now and no ETA. A belt isn't strong enough, but yes I have seen aircraft that use the Hy-Vo chains. Here is an aircraft gear maker mentioning the issues with Hy-Vo chains, but still says they are a viable solution. http://www.epi-eng.com/propeller_reduction_technology/chain_drive_issues.htm

I'm going to put a 4EAT into my Vanagon. It already has an EJ25 engine, so with the 4EAT no adapter plate is needed. I plan to use a 4.44:1 R&P. The gearing with this should be pretty close to ideal I hope, and I think with the EJ25 I'll be able to hold 65 MPH in 4th (around 2600 RPM) with the torque converter locked up. To reverse the R&P direction (as the Vanagon is rear engined) I plan to replace the reduction gearset with a chain. I'm currently investigating chains that will work, although it's hard to find real spec's. Currently the top contender is the Morse Hy-Vo chain which is used in a lot of 4WD transfer cases. However the widest chain I can easily fit would be 1", and I'm unsure if this can handle the power. The Jeep YJ transfer case chain is 1" (to drive the front wheels) so maybe 1" will be sufficient. A few things I'll need to figure out is how to mount the new sprockets to the old shafts. I'm considering machining (or wire EDM) the old gears into hubs, and then shrink fit and weld the new sprockets on. I'm unsure if I'll need to re-heat treat the sprocket teeth, but I'll check the hardness after the welding. The bearing structure and the parking pawl system complicate things here, but I think this is doable. Any ideas about chains or fabricating sprockets would be great!

I'm surprised you're breaking ring lands with 280 HP. Do you have enough fuel for the Nitrous? Any signs of detonation? What do the plugs look like? How much did the high stall torque converter cost? I'm considering one for my EJ20G with 4EAT.

Yes, I agree. :-p

The FWD 4EAT has a different upper reduction gear, without the transfer clutch basket. The AWD output shaft can't be simply removed as it supports the end of the intermediate shaft, the FWD end cover has a different bearing here. If you want to convert from AWD to FWD I think these are the parts to do it: intermediate shaft (with upper reduction gear), lower reduction gear (they're a matched set), and FWD end cover with bearings. I haven't tried this though. I imagine it's easier (although not as clean) to just cap the AWD output somehow.

If it were a constant problem, I could possibly believe that it was something to do with the crank and the engine cam/ignition timing. But being intermittent it would be unlikely for the timing to be just fine one second, bad the next, and then back to fine if it were a mechanical problem. It sounds like an electrical problem. Does it happen worse when the engine is cold? Hot? Cold outside? Hot outside? On bumpy roads? Any pattern you can think of?

Is your problem all the time, just sometimes, or only for a second? It sounds like an electrical problem to me. I'd start by cleaning the big engine harness plugs and the throttle position sensor. You may have a bad ignitor as well.

Yes that's possible. And in fact, the ROM from pmugabi for the EJ20G does this along with limiting the RPM to ~3000. The issue with the "F9" ECU is that all the ROM space is used. The CEL on knock I was able to fit in, but it was very small. To get more ROM space some OBD stuff could be chucked.

Here's links to my modified ROM and the XML file for RomRaider. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8FzJlhz-BzBYmExVDBhOUFRZjg https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8FzJlhz-BzBaDRQbzBCbHhydW8

Thanks! Here is a quick video I took. Remember this is a 4800 lb Vanagon Westfalia. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zb8qtjzhsdkhcEyPg6vbbEGvQw_CZv4O6YeyBizzoGE?feat=directlink

Quick update. EEPROM board is in: Mixture is only wrong at idle, otherwise it's pretty spot on. I guess it's due to cam overlap. I'm having to pull A LOT of timing, but it's still running very strong. For sure it's due to higher compression, but I'm sure the piston shape, cam, et cetera play into this. Modified the ECU code to flicker the CEL on knock, a very useful tool. Found the idle timing map (separate from base map) and experimenting with retarded timing at idle to smooth out the cam lope. Seems to work. Set idle speed to 1000 RPM and it's decently smooth.

Thanks, and yes I cut a slot in the bushing (like the fronts) for the grease to get to the inside (the busings have longitudinal slots too) but you can't see it in the pic.

The bushings on the front were working so great, but then what's that I hear? A squeak from the rear. The trailing arm bushings were shot, allowing the arms to rub the subframe. Time for some urethane! Superpro bushing set was $109 (and 2 months wait). That's a lot. I hunted down some bushings that with a little trimming fit perfectly. Daystar M02221, available here for $1.99/ea. 8 are needed per car. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/YJ-Small-Bushing-1.25-OD-3-4-ID/3190/3485 Original on the right, other two are trimmed. Up and into the subframe with a zerk.

I believe that's the "robtune" available for the OBD1 EJ20G. It's a few hundred for a chip that's locked down. I looked into this for my EJ20G, but I decided I'd rather like to understand what's going on and be able to tune it at my leisure. The EJ22T ECU is different from what I read.

Well, the SSM interface does not show it as duty cycle (time on vs overall time), but as just the pulse width (time on). At idle it was showing around 2ms injector pulse width, which is the same as my EJ20G. About 1ms of that is the injector latency anyways. However my EJ20G has 550cc/min injectors and the frankenmotor has 280cc/min ones... But it's not wise to put too much faith in the numbers from the SSM software, as a lot of the conversion constants are wrong.

The IACV duty cycle? It was anywhere from 25-50%, depending on where I turned the motor.

I've never heard of it; is the Group N ROM for an EJ22T? I don't know much about the EJ22T at all. I do have experience with the EJ20G.

Heehee, yes good eye; it is 200 amps and 15V. Barely fits, can just fit a credit card between the alt and the intake. I use it to charge my Odyssey house batteries. Thanks GD! I started a new thread just for ECU hacking here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1122184

GD mentions hacking the EJ22T ECU here and I figured I'd start a new thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1122169 So GD, first thing, does the ECU have pads for an EPROM socket? Maybe take a pic of the ECU board, high res so I can read the part numbers from the CPU. You'll need one of the FTDI Select Monitor cables with the SSM connector (same as the stereo): http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/engine.html You might need this level converter (because of the "92 syndrome"), but I just hardwired the stereo connector to the FTDI cable and it works. http://ecutune.com/ECUtuner.htm And then get JECScan software here: http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/JECScan_1v2a.zip Download the ROM (starting from address 0x8000, size 0x8000) to one file and the IO/RAM (address 0x0000, size 0x1500) to another. Then send them to me and I'll try to find the maps.

If you have an "F9" ECU then my modified ROM will work for you, assuming I can get the idle sorted and running smooth. I ran it no-load at high RPM and it was smooth, but still running lean. I am going to remap the ECU to get the mixture in the ballpark before driving it. The engine (and all the EJ22 parts) were working perfectly a week before doing the cams/shortblock so unless I messed something up during the engine work they should all be ok. I could get it to idle fast with the top adjustment, but the ECU was obviously not in control. And I could also get it to idle slow and it would be correct at around 700 RPM (also monitoring IACV duty cycle with SSM), but it was running like poo, just shaking a lot. No comments from anyone else? :-p Not even on my choice of alternator?

The ECU should send out "0V" (or close to it) to the relay, and the other side of the relay is at 12V to the fusebox. With electronics, they always work better switching the "ground" side of a circuit, so that's how you'll typically see things hooked up. In silicon transistors, electron mobility is about twice that of electron holes, so N-channel MOSFETs are more efficient. Put an ammeter inline with the relay and see how much current it's drawing. I doubt the relay is the problem though, your ECU could be damaged...

The EA ECU monitors the current through the fuel pump ground. This means that the fuel pump's ground wire goes back into the ECU; the EJ ECU is not like this, so you will need to complete the ground for the pump somewhere. I installed a jumper wire at the old EA ECU plug.

Sure thing. I'll also be releasing my modified ROM. What kind of ECU do you have? I'm glad to hear you have it working ok. I'll ponder that dynamic compression ratio thing... I'm not driving the motor yet until I can get the map closer to normal, but maybe after some driving it will eventually learn the AFR. But right now at idle it's running very lean. I can up the idle by turning the top electric adjustment, but then the computer can't close the loop at idle. Does yours still control the idle? What is your idle speed? You can see in the maps above that warmed-up idle for my ECU is 700 RPM. I understand what you're saying, but I'm not sure the difference in time between the throttle butterfly opening and the IACV opening is that much different, something more to ponder, hmm. Thanks for your comments!

Thanks for your reply! You couldn't, until I found the map locations and created a new entry in the RR XML file. :cool: What do you mean adjustment of the IACV on top and bottom? The top being the electrical part and the bottom being the valve itself? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the IACV is also metered through the MAF, right? So even if it's wrong it still should have a good AFR. It's possible I didn't hook something up right, or introduced a vacuum leak somewhere, but I went over everything a couple times and it seems ok. I guess I can borrow a smoke machine sometime. GeneralDisorder mentioned a while back that frankenmotor+cams is too much for the OBD1 ECUs which seems to be the case for me. I'm trying to get some insight into how the cams and frankenmotor change the effective AFR.