presslab
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Everything posted by presslab
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The filter screen is a single flat plastic mesh. There is little reason to add another magnet to the pan. The wear of gears and steel is very minimal, most of the wear is from the friction material.
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The transmission computer controls the shift points, this is the only thing that I could see affecting the "umpf" of the transmission. Is it holding onto gears too long? In any case I'd recommend checking the TPS adjustment as this tells the transmission when to change gears. Maybe the engine is just down on power. I have seen severely blocked filter screens in the transmission. But I doubt this is your problem.
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Ej22 in a 78 Leone wagon - power loss / faltering issue
presslab replied to julianco's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
Didn't your '78 didn't have a canister stock? You don't perhaps have the fuel return and tank vent lines reversed? Well, if things are fine with the vent disconnected then I'd say that area is your problem. A surge tank will help with fuel starvation when the tank is low and you're going around corners, so with a full tank I don't think that's your problem. Venting the tank to atmosphere puts out more emissions than running without a catalytic converter, needless to say it's a lot. You'll also get less MPG if you just let the tank vent out. If it were me I'd add the EJ22 canister and just connecting the tank system like that from the Legacy. It's pretty straightforward, the tank vent hose goes into the canister, and out the canister goes to the purge control solenoid at the intake manifold. Maybe this page offers some insight: http://offroadingsubarus.com/fuel-system-for-ej22-converted-ea81s/ -
What fluid to use in 1988 XT clutch-type LSD?
presslab replied to dsmpowered's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It takes about 0.8 liters. I use 75W90 synthetic oil, and I mix it with with a special LSD additive. -
Ej22 in a 78 Leone wagon - power loss / faltering issue
presslab replied to julianco's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
How is you charcoal canister hooked up? -
To use the stock EJ25 you'll need to replace a bunch of wiring and the ECU as well. This is not easy.
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You can get an idea of decent exhaust systems by looking at the http://rallysportdirect.com web site. I personally have cheaper parts from eBay but I had to cut and weld some pieces to make it fit right.
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I'd start with the exhaust system. Up-pipe first, then turbo-back exhaust. This will also reduce turbo lag and make it more responsive.
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Attaching the shield at one end prevents a ground loop. A ground loop is like the hum sound you can get with a home stereo.
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I have used a steel compression fitting to splice the high pressure line. I bought it from McMaster-Carr.
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Subaru uses PVC insulation, probably some cross-linked variant. I'd say 75-80C rating is sufficient for wiring in the engine bay, but not on the engine; wiring on the engine (under intake manifold) should be 125C.
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The drain wire is just for convenience, to more easily terminate the shield into a connector. It's not hard to strip back the insulation, un-braid the shield, twist it, tin the twisted shield, and solder it to the other side. For high-impedance signals like the O2 sensor, the exact cable isn't required. It's more important to get something that will handle the heat and vibration of an engine compartment. The wire gauge isn't needed to handle high current, it's more needed to have something that's not fragile. For things like CANbus the proper cable impedance must be used.
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No... That auction includes the wiring and ECU.
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It's a Delco CS144 from older Chevy 350/454. At idle it puts out about 100A. There are lots of upgrade parts at alternatorparts.com I have a #1/0 welding cable running to dual batteries.
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Are there any independant Subaru shops? Here is a little info on the learning procedure: http://nodusus.com/lgt/TSB/16-72-07.pdf
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Seems about average. I paid about that (but w/ shipping included) a few years ago for my EJ20G with 5MT. It's been a great motor.
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I have found the "Asian import" o-ring kit has everything I've needed. I'm not sure what Napa carries specifically.
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Phase 2 does have a couple dropping resistors. But if it were blown, part throttle shifting would be violent. We had new TCU firmware flashed to our '06 Tribeca and it improved the shift quality.
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I'd start by doing a relearn on the TCU. This requires an SSM2 cable (dealer or Subaru specialty shop). You should also ask the dealer if there is a TCU firmware update you can get flashed.
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Maybe the mounting face of the wheel is messed up after being loose. It's aluminum after all, and if it's not flat (like the edges are pushed in) it will move around and the lug nuts will loosen. So I'd recommend checking the wheel mounting faces with a machinist straightedge. If they are not flat, it might be possible to take just a little material off to make them flat again. If your lug nut seats are messed up it's possible to drill them out and install new steel seats. This would be a job for a machine shop as the wheel needs to be machined correctly to accept the new seats. http://www.prestigewheel.com/Imagewi510.asp#Cone Seat Inserts
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Hey thanks for the offer of the ROM dump, that would be awesome. Lazy off the line is probably just because it's a turbo. Mine is like that too, and I got my torque converter modified for higher stall that helped some. Full throttle 6000 RPM shift sounds right, but worth checking the TPS adjustment. I have adjusted my shift points in the TCU to around 7000 RPM. But the 2-3 shift sounds like your high clutch is shot, I'm dealing with that right now too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145520-performance-4eat/
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On my 88 GL-10 with green Digidash, there is an internal jumper wire for MPH. It's pretty obvious once the cluster is opened up. Unplugging this jumper will display speed in KPH. It would be easy to extend this wire outside the cluster to a switch. As mentioned the odometer will still be in miles.
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Wow! I'm glad I live in California. That salt is a killer.
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You have boost creep. Try lengthening the wastegate rod a bit, maybe 1/2 turn. Your boost controller also must have some options for adjusting the gain. Do you have an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system?
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Power mode can also be activated by a quick stab on the throttle. You should see the power light come on the dash. If you don't have the light, your TCU probably doesn't have it either. When activated it will then will use a different set of shift points holding onto gears longer and is more likely to unlock the torque converter. It doesn't have different line pressure or firmer shifts.
