presslab

I've finished the frankenmotor in my Vanagon, EJ25D shortblock with EJ22E heads and Delta 220 cams. I calculated comp ratio at 10.4:1. Things went pretty good, and I used everything else from my EJ22E, which is from a '92 Legacy. It's been said that the cams cause idle problems, and the frankenmotor too. Each one can be handled by the ECU okay, but both together cause problems. Well not surprisingly my idle is pretty terrible, and the computer is not going closed loop AFR; I should mention it ran perfectly before. The ECU tries to correct AFR by +20%, but then gives up. My plan is to remap the ECU. I ordered some custom PCBs to install a daughtercard into the ECU (design thanks to Alcyone.org.uk!) and I've figured out where the maps live in the ROM. This stuff is pretty much the same as the remapping I've done on my GC8 WRX motor, so I have some experience here. Anyone with experience mapping these engines with aftermarket engine management? I know I need to richen the idle, but what else, and why? Do the cams allow unmetered air in from the exhaust during idle, is this why it's lean? Blipping the throttle I can hear some pinging. I have 87 in the tank now, and I know I need to run 91. But I'd like to back off the timing a bit to be safe. So for a higher compression ratio, theoretically do I need to back off timing across the board or just at certain places (i.e. low RPM)? Below is a pic of the motor, and the maps I downloaded from my "F9" ECU.

My 4EAT had the same problem clunking in reverse. I glued the trans mount back together with Windo-Weld urethane 7 years ago and it's still fine.

Yeah check the pressure when the compressor kicks on. If the low side goes too low (normal should be around 30 PSI) it will turn the system off. I'm not sure if my wiring is the same as yours, but it looks like blue/red and blue/white are for the "econo pressure switch" that engages the fan relay. I don't know what pressures this "econo" switch works at, but if this switch is not tripped it will not trigger the fan relay.

What is the static pressure in the system? It's much more likely that you don't have refrigerant in the system rather than the switch being bad. The compressor coming on for a second points to this as well.

If you realize the work the design engineers have done to filter out resonances and amplify specific frequencies, you'd see that the location of the sensor is quite integral to it's design. "Listening" for engine knock is very tricky stuff, and the knock sensor will "hear" knock well before you or I can hear it with our ears. I'd say leave it where it's meant to be, or else you will either cause the ECU to "hear" false knock, or the ECU won't be able to pick up knock until it's too loud and causing engine damage. The torque applied to the bolt is also important, so check your spec's. In any case, is the risk of engine damage worth the time saved by not bolting it in the right location? Some interesting reading: http://www.diagnosticnews.com/tech/engine-knock-sensors-part-1/ http://www.diagnosticnews.com/tech/engine-knock-sensors-part-2/ And some nuts-and-bolts of knock detection implementation in a DSP: http://www.ti.com/lit/an/spra039/spra039.pdf

Yeah that's true, my shift points are not all at 7400 RPM. There are pretty large jumps between gears, so it's a trade-off of the power falling off and then setting up for the next gear. So generally I have the 1-2 shift rev out pretty high so once in 2nd it's in the meat of the powerband, but 2-3 shift is a lot lower RPM. Also it builds boost faster if I let it downshift for overtaking, even though it will shift up pretty soon.

Another option with the upswept outlet (especially to use a 2-row) is to connect a couple copper elbows together to bend it around. You can see it in this pic at the middle right side.

Back from the dead. I need to remove that trim as well, did you figure it out?

I looked for pics here of Turbone's CAI but I haven't found anything yet. Maybe he will chime in. My buddy was trying to give me some old computer cases just the other day, perfect timing! Something to play with my new TIG welder too, sounds like a nice project. Thanks for the idea. The shift points are to allow use of the 7400 RPM redline of the EJ20G. If your ECU won't do that, it won't even shift at redline it will just bounce off the limiter until you back off the throttle. I'm not sure that will help you much, but I did improve the paddle shifter code too. I'll email you later and you can check it out.

So it's been around 96 F here the last week, and of course my car is down on power. I was worried about the turbo heat so I put on a '02 WRX turbo heat shield. It fit okay with just minimal trimming. The A/C sucks some power too and doesn't shut off when I floor it. I guess I need to rig a full-throttle switch like the JDM cars have. I want to do something with the intake. Right now it's a "hot air" intake as there's nothing to block the engine heat. Maybe some kind of sheet metal shroud? Like a wall going from the frame rail up to the hood. Or maybe adapt a stock filter setup so it's drawing in from inside the fender. Here is my setup now: What do you guys think?

Yeah there should be one inside the hose. You can't see it, maybe a little lump, but if you squeeze the hose you'll find it. Unless it's missing, and that's your problem. :-p Sometimes there is a bit of white paint where the valve is. On some models I believe the valve is located at the fitting on the booster. In any case you should be able to pull the hose off the intake manifold, suck on it with your mouth, and it should hold the vacuum.

I have air bags on my '88 wagon, they are relatively soft. The front end really lifts up when I get on it, but then I have a WRX motor.

I wonder how many others have a Vanagon and an old Subaru. Mine: '88 GL-10 Wagon (EJ20G) '86 Vanagon Westy (EJ22)

It might be the check valve located inside the booster hose. Pull the hose off the booster and see if it holds vacuum with a MightyVac. Then use the MightyVac to make sure the check valve is tight.

In back I can see where the tire hits just the edge of the fender lip, if I rolled it in a smidge it would not be a problem. Although my offset could be a bit more too as there is some clearance inside; the Rodeo wheels have 5.25" backspacing. What gearing are you going to go with? I still have stock 3.7 R&P so I wanted to keep the stock smaller diameter tire. I think the car would even be ok with 3.9 R&P with my tire size, as the highway RPMs are pretty low now. Thanks for the offer on the injectors! I think I have it figured out now, I replaced one of the injectors (the ones to replace the engraved ones) and now my idle seems good! They are 535cc @ 3 bar injectors now too so if I want to turn up the boost a bit I could.

Thanks! The rims are 6.5x15" from Isuzu Rodeo, and tires are 205/50-15 Yoko Advan AD08. Yeah, that's not a bad idea. I'm always leery of using sealants around fuel as it seems to eat anything, but epoxy meant for fuel tanks will probably last a while. However, I've already replaced the injectors and solved the starting problem. But one of my replacement injectors is a bit dirty and now my idle has a lump to it. :-\

That's not a bad idea as R134a is readily available. I tried R134a for a while but I get better cooling with ES-12a. In any case I'd say use ester oil, it's just easier and doesn't absorb moisture like single end-capped PAG. Ester oil is compatible with any refrigerant. With mineral oil (as normally used with R12) and R134a, the mineral oil is not miscible and won't lubricate the system. So if using R134a, it's a really good idea to flush the system to try and get as much old mineral oil out as possible. Then add the ester oil, vacuum it down, and charge it up. If any mineral oil is left in the system it's not the end of the world. It will just pool up in low areas, and will diminish the cooling a little. But the key here is to add a full charge of ester oil when converting to R134a.

The ES-12a hydrocarbon refrigerants are a blend of 80% propane and 20% butane to get the pressures like R12. So while propane will work, it's not quite the same. Also the mercaptan in regular propane might not be so great for the A/C system. I've heard of people running straight propane though. The welding supply store has 70%/30% mix for brazing, maybe it will work too. ES-12a is only $45 for 6 cans so it's really no biggie. I use 2.5 cans to charge mine. Good thing I only smoke when I'm on fire.

Yes keep both valves on the gauge set closed. The yellow hose hooks to whatever, vacuum pump, evacuator, freon can, etc. Also when measuring pressures keep the engine at fast idle like 1500 RPM, and the interior fan on high. With R12, if there aren't many bubbles in the sight glass (fast idle, A/C on of course) you are probably charged ok. With R134a you can't really use the sight glass. Cold A/C is a wonderful thing. I just got mine working again after my engine swap and it's cold. The A/C systems in the EA82 seem to be a good working setup. I use a hydrocarbon replacement for R12 and it works good, if yours needs a recharge that's a cheaper way to go. http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

Nice job. So it was a twisted spring on the cable linkage to the hillholder? Did you disable it or did you fix the problem?

The fuel pressure should be relative to manifold pressure. Is that what you mean by steady? So if you get into boost you should see ~60 PSI, and at idle you'll see ~38 PSI. The hose can pop off the FPR. This is a "silent killer" but it doesn't sound like your problem as it would run lean under boost. You need to see if your computer has closed the loop with the NbO2 sensor. Look at the ECU LED or put a voltmeter on the O2 signal wire.

I think this is your problem. Maybe your rear diff was from a 4EAT equipped car? It's easy enough to pull the rear part of the propshaft to see if that frees things up. If after you jack the car up and back down and it binds right away then the hillholder could be it. A difference in diff ratios would be evident after driving the car.

I've had the occasional hard starting problem, and I decided to get to the bottom of it. Long cranking sometimes followed by a puff of black smoke out the tailpipe. Well, the fuel pressure was not holding overnight. I had my injectors cleaned by a popular outfit when I put the motor in, and it turns out they engraved numbers on each injector right where the lower O-ring sits! I've called them and was given a very cold shoulder, but they said they'd look into it. Not holding out hope, though, for them to accept responsibility. I wonder if I can smooth it out without removing too much material.

I agree with all that, don't run premium unless your engine needs it. If you want the carb cleaned, dump a bottle of Techron cleaner in your tank every oil change.

Here is a video showing the improved shift points. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/nF_jkal-g5mK-0haP0Heyut4bszuSWzHLxcb_sc0RE0?feat=directlink