presslab

Anyone ever have their rotors cryo treated? I've been thinking of this as mine don't last too long, they get warped after a year or so.

Sounds like a misalignment between the transaxle and the engine. Did you notice if the two locating pins are still in the bellhousing? Check the bellhousing for any signs of cracking or damage. Also check the end play on the crank, maybe the engine bearings are hosed.

Here is the ROM file for the EJ20G ECU. It's a Z4 rev, with custom maps for 91 octane and 16 PSI. No warranty express or implied. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B8FzJlhz-BzBTE9Gd0w3ako0c3c

Here is a pic of the car.

Don't mind the A/C, I should get that hooked up tomorrow. Here's a couple, for highest res go to the link above.

When I upload them here it turns them tiny. I'll host them somewhere else and get some proper pics up. :-p Oops this should probably be in the retrofitting forum, mods feel free to move it.

I figured I'd start a thread on my conversion. The car is an '88 GL-10 wagon with 4EAT. The engine is a '94 JDM GC8 WRX. The engine (and 5MT which I plan to use in another car) and harness came from eBay, $1800 shipped. The engine was in pretty good shape, although there were a few issues: Dented oil pan. Not a problem, I was able to look in the drain plug hole and the pickup had plenty of room. Missing intake "resonator". I bought the Apexi metal intake tube meant for a EJ22T. Broken header coolant tank. I bought a used metal one from eBay for a 2002 WRX. I needed to plug the lower hole and put a new pipe nipple on the other side, and make the necessary brackets to hold it. Bad coil pack. It didn't look cracked, but caused a huge intermittent misfire. A new one for a SVX worked great. Bad ECU coolant temp sensor. Cold start was terrible, replacing this fixed the cold start problem. I still have a very small problem starting when warm. Bad uppipe. The uppipe flex joint was shot, maybe from sitting on the exhaust from the boat ride. A cheap-o eBay uppipe worked okay. I chose the SJR adapter plate rather than swap the 4EAT bellhousing. This worked out fine and saved me some work. It was easy enough to redrill the flex plate, although there is a hardened steel backup plate that required grinding. The SJR plate is nice, my only complaint is that the locating holes for the dowels are not very precise. Stripping the harness was pretty easy. I made a new pluggable connector with 15 pins to interface the new harness with the old one. I had to run a few additional wires for the 4EAT, but no big deal. The radiator fans were a bit tricky, I used a Corolla relay box and wired up two Spal 11" fans behind the radiator to run low & high speed. The A/C cut relay was previously wired before the ECU A/C input, and I needed to rewire it so it was after the ECU A/C input. The digidash tachometer needed a slight resistor mod to get it to work. Coolant lines were not bad either. The hardest part was making hardlines that ran above the radiator for the bleed and the overflow to the header tank. The rad cap on the actual radiator has the lower seal removed. This allows air to bleed back into the header tank. The lower rad hose I used a couple large copper elbows to bend it around to match the stock 2-row radiator. For the top rad hose I used a chunk of the old hose as a reducer. The ECU was (un)fortunately already chipped, running 18 PSI. Hmm looks like this engine has seen some abuse. Oh well, compression test is excellent and it runs good. Because the ECU was chipped, it had a daughterboard installed so I could use jellybean EPROMS. That's good, because both the chip and the stock ECU ROM were way too advanced for our (relatively) crappy 91 R+M/2 octane fuel. I was able to remap the ECU timing and I also added a few other things like CEL on knock, overtemp cutout, launch control, etc. These mods are courtesy of pmugabi, and they work fantastic. Thanks Paul! I didn't end up using Paul's maps, because apparently the fuel in Uganda is worse than ours. But I came up with something that works really well and I've got it at 16 PSI of boost. It seems pretty happy like this. The power steering lines were unfortunatly cut, but I was able to splice my high pressure one on with a steel compression fitting. The return line was easy, just a hose clamp. I already had 3" catback exhaust, and I run the USDM WRX dual cat downpipe. Trying to keep the polar bears alive, ya know. This bolted up pretty good, I had to tweak the midpipe a bit but it's all pretty clean. The engine mount on the EJ is a different angle from EA. I ordered some aluminum wedges from Paul in OZ. No grinding needed on the crossmember. The pitch mount was bent, cut, and rewelded. I spent a fair amount of time just on the intercooler. It's a 2002 WRX one. I didn't want to hack the body up too much so I had to get creative with the hoses. Some silicone elbows, and a new plate to mount on the BPV, and things shaped up pretty good. The charcoal canister was easy, I just hooked up the small line to the hose on the butterfly, and the large line went to the tank. The other fittings on the canister were capped. The throttle cable wasn't long enough, so I ordered one for a Loyale and it fit. It could be a bit longer though... I needed to space off the bracket. My fuel pump was already upgraded, but I decided to play it safe and installed a Walbro GSL392. The input fitting was 12mm and the outlet was a 14mm banjo fitting, with an 8mm banjo barb on the end of it. This is because the pump needs a right angle right out of it. I think that's about it. I hope this helps some else with their conversion questions. Any more questions feel free to ask. I'll put the photos here: https://picasaweb.google.com/102828233271702668239/EJ20G?authkey=Gv1sRgCKes2fW5yuzRlQE#5730347818515918994

I'm pretty sure the EJ205 ECU has the same tach signal as the EJ20G ECU. I haven't worked with one personally though.

Alrighty, I've got the fans all wired up. I used the old fan connector and used the fan positive switched ign power from there to power the relays (so the fans can't turn on during cranking) and the fan negative connects to the "high speed" output from the ECU. This causes the fans to run high speed when the A/C switch triggers due to high pressure, just like the JDM diagram shows. I basically copied the GM wiring diagram for the new relays, but I needed to add a diode between the ECU high speed and low speed outputs. This is so that if the high speed output is on, it will also force the low speed output on. Without the diode only one fan would work at high speed. On low speed, the fans are quiet! Can't hear them over the engine idling, but they blow a fair amount of air. On high, the fans are audible, but not loud. Again these are two 11" Spal curved blade fans. And I've got my A/C tubes all welded up, and A/C charged, only to find that the compressor is bad! The "A/C cut" relay is also giving me fits, it looks like I'll need to change the wiring on this relay to work with the new ECU.

Well, ok I think I'm stupid. After reviewing the wiring diagram some more it looks to me like the turbo ECUs already have support for two speed fans. The cool part about using the ECU is it turns the fans off (sometimes) once the car starts moving, so the fan's aren't whirring away when tooling down the road with A/C on. I think I can plumb my new relay box right into the ECU and have it do the series/parallel thing; although, the WRX has fans that run two speeds, and does not series/parallel them. However, my JDM Impreza service manual does not have the cooling section in it, so I'm a bit in the dark here. Anyone have this for a '94 JDM Impreza? The attachment is for a USDM 2002 Impreza, I guess it is similar.

Yeah but what if the engine is real hot? I guess I could turn the A/C on to get the high speed to kick on, but this seems counterproductive. My VW van has a two speed thermoswitch and it works well. I'd like to reproduce something like this if I can on the Subaru. I've got the two fans mounted, looking good! At least 1/8" of clearance.

I got my fans, they're nice! It looks like the two 11" will fit just fine. I need to finish the brackets, and then it's on to the wiring. I bought this relay box ('98 Toyota Corolla) for $8.50 shipped on eBay: I'll need the three lefthand relays for the dual speed fan control, and the right relay is a bonus. Still of question is how I will hook up the thermoswitch. I can't find any dual-temp thermoswitches that will fit. So I'm thinking of using the stock thermoswitch (and A/C) for the low speed, and then using the ECU fan output for high speed. Maybe use the Hyundai thermoswitch like Jeszek: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128177&page=3 Anyone know what temp will trigger the ECU to turn on the fan output?

That's a good idea, I'll see if I can rig that up with some relays. I wonder if there is a dual temperature thermoswitch that fits the stock M16x1.5 hole... I found this SPAL curved blade fan, same size as the above one; should be quieter and it seems to flow a bit more air even:

Thanks for the info. I see SPAL has a two-speed fan controller... Maybe it would make sense to use something like this, so with A/C on it would be on low, and when the thermoswitch kicks in it will be on high. I was thinking if I had two fans I would have one on for A/C and both on for thermoswitch. Maybe it would make more sense to have both on low for A/C and both on high for thermoswitch.

I'm looking at this Spal fan. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PB433Q/ref=oh_o00_s00_i01_details Looks like I can fit two between the radiator and engine. I'm pretty sure it will work on the driver's side, on the other side the acorn nut for the power steering might interfere, but I can always put a normal nut on there to get a little more clearance.

I might be able to fit one on one side (the side w/o the trans cooler) but how big of one fits there? Do you remember the model of fan you used?

To follow up, I purchased a SJR adapter plate and it all works fine. I redrilled the flex plate which was mild steel, that was easy. However there is a backing plate which was hardened steel and the carbide burr was needed. The metal cover plate under the bellhousing hits the torque converter. I think a plate from an automatic EJ would work though, as my engine was with a manual tranny. The SJR adapter doesn't have tight tolerances on the locating dowels, the holes are too big; I don't think this problem is specific to the 4EAT. But I lined it up the best I could and it seems to be okay so far. The transmission seems to be holding up to the power. I sometimes get some slip in first gear, but I'm pretty sure it's my tires that are spinning.

I'm finishing up my EJ20G swap and I'm looking into what radiator fan to get. It looks like I can fit a 2" thick one between the EA82T (2-row) radiator and the EJ20G engine. I can't really put one on front as I have the trans cooler and A/C condenser, and I'm not getting rid of A/C. Anyone else put a fan between the engine and radiator?

I've never taken an orange one apart, but it's quite possible it uses a similar circuit. I just started to trace the circuit on mine by following the tach signal, and the resistor was the first thing I came to. I tried a few values to ensure that the 1k would give good margin. I can help you mod yours, open it up and take a pic.

My '88 GL10 needed a slight mod to the green digidash to get the tach working with the EJ20G. It's expecting a high voltage (peak primary volts) from the coil primary, but the output of the ECU isn't enough to trigger it. Anyway the fix is to solder a 1k resistor in parallel with resistor 112 which is a 36k resistor. This lowers the threshold voltage so it can pick up the ECU signal. Tach works perfect now.

You're right, I don't "NEED" one. I don't need a lot of things. But I'd much rather have a turbo torque converter if I'm going to all the trouble. I want to use an EJ205 turbo engine. The EA82T 4EAT does have a higher stall torque converter, about 2800 RPM, where did you see it was the same as NA? It looks like the Legacy turbo TC has an even higher stall at 3200 RPM. This is actually a good argument for the Legacy bellhousing, but I would need the turbo TC also. The Legacy TC has different part numbers for 4WD turbo and 2WD turbo even! I have a hard time finding real numbers for these stall speeds. I see they are different part numbers though. Does anyone have the FSM for the 4EAT on the EA and EJ turbo? Could you look up the listed stall speeds?

Either will work. While it is a bit easier to get the oil in without the valve in place, with the schrader insert removed it's not that hard to get the oil in there with a syringe. Be sure to clean the oil off the threads on the shock with solvent so the sealant will hold. The 10wt front, 15wt rear has been just fine, even with my 205/50-15 tires. We have some of the worst roads in the USA here. For street only use I would go with 15wt front 20wt rear but I occasionally go off-road. If you regularly go over 100 MPH I'd recommend this heavier viscosity as my current setup is a bit soft for this.

Yeah that was me. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94388 Still working great. Let me know if you have any q's.

Thanks again for the info. Yeah the bellhousings will be the same, but the TC for a turbo engine has a higher stall speed than the normally aspirated one... So I'd need to get one of those too, I dunno how many EJ22T 4EAT Legacies are out there but I guess this TC would be expensive and hard to find...

Here's a circuit I came up with a while ago. I think this is what's in my van right now but it's been so long I don't remember if I needed to fiddle with it. IGN+ ___ ___ OUT o------|___|------UUU-----------+-------------+-----o | | 180 OHM 22 mH ^ | 1 WATT ~ RXE025 | v | 1 k OHM | | ___ 1N4001 B |/ C | o------|___|----+--------+----| - TACH IN | | |> E ^ 1N5956B .-. | | | | | - | | | | ^ | 2N6517 | 180 OHM '-' | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | === === === === GND GND GND GND QTY: PART: DESCRIPTION: DIGI-KEY PN: (1) 1N4001 DIODE 1N4001DICT-ND (1) 1N5956B 200 V ZENER DIODE 1N5956BRLOSCT-ND (1) 2N6517 NPN TRANSISTOR 2N6517OS-ND (1) 22 mH INDUCTOR DN7763-ND (2) 180 OHM 1 WATT RESISTOR BC180W-1CT-ND (1) 1 k OHM 1/4 WATT RESISTOR 1.0KQBK-ND (1) RXE025 0.25A POLYFUSE RXE025-ND