presslab

If the plastic pieces below the windshield are not sealed the water will run right into the fresh air vent, especially when parking with the nose slighly uphill.

I'm just being factual and honest, I apologise if it comes across brash. I still feel the same, it's not a personal insult, but really one need to understand the relationship between flow and pressure, and how the fuel pressure regulator works, etc. before modding their engine. It seemed that AWD TURBO ignored my post and doesn't understand that relationship when in the next post he talked about the 185cc and the 330cc without describing their pressure or translating the numbers so they would actually compare to each other. I couldn't even find what pressure the 330cc injectors are on their web site, so who knows how much they actually flow. But whatever, I am just trying to help. I'm not wanted in this thread so I will now bow out.

Ok, good luck.

185cc @ 36 PSI (still doesn't correlate to measurements), the 330cc are probably @ 43.5 PSI. Do you know the relationship of flow to PSI? It is (PSI(x) / PSI(y))^0.5. For the mathematically challenged: http://osidetiger.com/calculator.aspx If you don't understand that you probably shouldn't be modding your engine.

I have seen people refer to them as 180cc, 185cc, etc. but that's not at the same pressure most injectors are rated at. Here is the post where they are actually measured. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=323920&postcount=68 And info from WJM. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=598691&postcount=3 When I upgraded to 280zxt injectors they did flow more, but definitely not 40% more.

Any info on your oil cooler setup? I have been running 14 PSI w/ TD04L, for the past 12k mi; so far so good.

Someone measured the XT injectors at ~220 cc/min @ 40 PSI. This correlates with what I have seen. BTW I just upgraded to 370cc and I have my brown top 280ZXT injectors, 260cc for sale, only 12k miles on them.

Losing water can be bad... But if your temp gauge didn't get in the red you should be ok. Glycol does raise the boiling point, but so does the pressure inside the cooling system. The absolute pressure is about twice that in normal atmosphere. This raises the boiling point further by about 20 C or 36 F, so the boiling point of straight water would be 248 F without any glycol. If you have a leak and pressure is lost, the boiling point will go back down to 212 F. So it's always a good idea to run glycol mix, unless you are on a race track as they don't allow it for safety reasons.

I added another fat ground wire from my engine to the frame, right at the thermostat housing, for this same issue. It helped a lot but I still see it occasionally. When my blinker goes I can see the dash lights dim slightly so there is some other bad connection in the dash.

My GL-10 came with the height switch, I don't know how it's wired up.

Looks like I fixed it. I took apart the controller and touched up a few solder joints and replaced the electrolytic caps. They were slightly bulged. So the bad caps probably made the inputs glitch a bit. I like the height adjustment... I was towing my trailer the other day and the tongue would tap the ground on large dips, so I just pressed the height button and problem solved! Not to mention the rear automatically leveling when I loaded the trailer up.

Okay, thanks. It seems I have a correct DOJ as that boot fit fine. The axle has two bumps, indicating length I think, and I it looks like it should have three. Unfortunately nobody here (in this city of 170,000) stocks specific CV joint boots. They just sell axles or "universal" boots, which I looked at, and they suck. Maybe I'll try to buy just an outer joint so I have the correct one. EMPI sells one, the 87-9901. Anyone know of a good supplier for EMPI joints?

So I went to put a front outer CV boot on a reman shaft. I ordered the correct boot from Subaru and it didn't fit, it was too big on the CV joint side; I double checked the part number. My car is turbo w/ 4EAT and I counted 25 splines on the tranny side. I'm thinking that my reman shaft has a correct CV joint on the inside and a non-turbo CV on the outside. Is this possible? The new CV boot looked like it fit an 85mm OD on the CV joint and my outer joint was about 78mm. Did the 25 spline axles have a physically larger outside CV?

The TCU is located behind the rear seat, on the driver's side, just below the window. Unplug the TCU, the tranny should work in failsafe mode, 3rd gear with the AWD clutch locked, torque converter clutch unlocked. If the engine still stalls it's not the TCU.

I heard nitric acid from a radiator shop will eat the tap and bolt and leave the aluminum, maybe that's what's in "tap out." Just don't get it on your skin. Here is some good info on removal of broken bolts/taps: http://www.metalartspress.com/PDFs/Removing_Frozen_or_Broken_Taps_and_Fasteners.pdf

I just hooked up trailer wiring on my 88 GL-10. It was pretty easy, one wire goes to the left taillight and the others all go to the right one. I used an adapter, $14 from Wally World. I pulled the pins from the connector and piggybacked mine by soldering them on to the pins. Then I pushed both wires back into the connector. You'll need an XOR gate function; it won't be very easy to make. Here is some food for thought - on the bottom left is a schematic from a patent: http://cr4.globalspec.com/blogentry/9465/DIY-Trailer-Hitch-Wiring-Solutions-Part-2

The struts are 2 years old or so but it still could be bad. The height sensors are reed switches, two of them I think. I could jumper the plug to fool it, that's not a bad idea, thanks.

What I mean by creeping up is that I'll bleed the air out and get everything level and it's good. Then I'll just drive it around as usual and I notice that over the course of a week the height of that wheel gets higher and higher. I can hear the compressor come on when I load up my mountain bike, or put some boxes in, etc. So I'm guessing that when it's leveling the rear it somehow energizes the right front strut too. If it just sits and I don't drive it, it doesn't change height. I thought it might be the strut valve leaking too but I left the air pipes connected and just unplugged the electric wires. It does not creep up. A while ago I took apart the valve and stretched the spring, no difference. I've had this problem forever.

I have an '88 wagon with the bag suspension. Lately my right front keeps creeping up. It stops at the "high" setting, while the other three wheels are at the normal setting. I unplugged the electrical from the right front solenoid, and that solved the problem. The car still levels the other three just fine. Anyone else notice this weirdness? Maybe there is something wrong with the suspension computer?

I have a dual-stage booster from a Legacy on my EA82, along with a SVX M/C. The larger bore 1-1/8" SVX M/C actually decreases braking power in exchange for pedal firmness. The booster brings back the power, so now I have firmness and power. I have WRX SS/teflon braided hoses, they work great too. Sorry, I don't know it those will fit EA81 or not. Don't EA81 have a proportioning valve stock?

That's awesome you got it all working! How is your AWD working, did the EJ TCU get rid of the front wheel spin? I'm going to come up with a new design for my paddles. The ones I have now are solid steel rod and they bounce around a bit. It's exaggerated too because my column isn't the stiffest thing either. I like your idea of using the hollow aluminum tubing.

Excellent job! Now on to bigger and better things!

I used studs from an Isuzu Rodeo, 12 x 1.5. They pressed in nice and are a good length. My wheels are Rodeo wheels too, actually. The nuts I just bought from the local tire dealer - they are tapered with a large base like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-754001 Or how about these for 12 x 1.25: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-754000

I'd say go with the TD04 and equal length exhaust header. At 11 PSI the VF7 is blowing some pretty hot air. You're pushing it with a stock fuel system, even with your current setup.

I had windshield rust too. It was all around the whole frame, most likely caused by someone cutting into the paint while replacing the windshield. The bottom was pretty rusted out, so this is what I did: I took off all the rust and old paint with a wire wheel. Then I put "rust converter" on all the bare metal and let it "convert" the rust. Then I painted everything with POR-15 - this was thick enough to fill the pinholes I had in the lower corners. Finally I installed the windshield with liberal adhesive on the lower edge to fill up the frame. It's been a couple years and I don't see any rust yet. If you drill a hole there you could get a leak - there is an intake vent that goes right into the car just below the corners of the windshield. I had a leak that turned out to be the plastic shroud below the windshield. Water would follow a seam and then sneak under the plastic shroud. If I was parked uphill the water would drip right into that vent and get the floor all wet. Some sealant between the plastic and the body solved that problem.