presslab

I drilled and faced my hubs with a CNC mill. The casting is very good metal, it machined just fine. I have the g-code if anyone wants a copy.

There are no drainage holes in the windshield frame. There is a drain hole down lower on each side, the driver's side is next to the wiper arm hole.

My hatch stuts suck too, even though they weren't that old. I just bent them - raise the hatch all the way and grab the strut right where the shaft goes in. Push away from the car and bend each one a bit. Repeat until the friction is sufficient. I've had then bent for a couple years and they still work fine.

The turbo engines are more fragile but with some care they work fine. In stock form the horsepower increase is hardly worth it. If you overheat them the heads can crack and leak coolant. Turbos put a strain on everything. That said my EA82T has been going strong even though I've modded it up pretty good and drive it like an idiot.

The air suspension brain is pretty dumb. If one side of the car is lower than the other it thinks you are going around a turn. Bleed some air out of a strut until they are really close in height from side to side. Or just bleed all the air out of everything. I have seen that when working on my air suspension; if they aren't even the compressor will come on for a second and that's it. You can also just let it sit there with the key on and sometimes it will figure it out and start airing up. Overall though I love my air suspension.

Good job! Looks like it'll get it done. You should add more fuel though before boosting that much. At least monitor the nb O2 sensor and make sure it never goes lean under boost. You can crush the stock FPR to add more fuel if done carefully. I've been running 15 PSI w/ TD04 for a while now and it hasn't blown up.

How is your idle? Mine has a bit of a lope to it. I think the ECU is having a hard time with the added "loop gain" the injectors give the system. I have 280 ZX-T injectors (260 cc @ 43 PSI) and my static fuel pressure is 60 PSI. Basically about 1.6 times the fuel as the original setup. My MAF is modified to compensate for the additional fuel. I'm running 16 PSI boost on a TD04L, any more and I get fuel cut. I've come to the conclusion that any more boost will require a custom engine management unit or hacking the ECU.

I have Porterfield R4S all the way around. They stop great, never overheated them. Pretty good stopping power too. The pads that came on the car (unknown) would fade easily. When cold they take a couple stops to make them work. Weird thing though, I have the same compound pads on my VW and they work fine when cold. The application ('88 GL-10 turbo) was not in their application guide but when I called them it was no problem. http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

Yeah I was under the impression that the VLSD chunk was sealed with it's magic fluid inside, and the fluid added to the diff was just for the R&P. I have a clutch LSD in my EA82T. It's stock height, XT6 sways, 4EAT AWD, BFG g-Force T/A KD tires. I have zero hop, ever. I've never had it dyno'd, but I'm running a TD04 with 1 BAR of boost, so it's pretty powerful. Sorry, that probably doesn't help too much, just a data point... What kind of transaxle do you have? I assume you're driving it 4-hi? I'm going to guess that because you are lifted with the Accord springs, that the torque of the axles makes your suspension load up; the tire then slips and your suspension unloads, over and over.

Ok, this is totally stupid and I understand if the mods delete this post... Yesterday I was at a red light with a brand new M3 coupe next to me, it was a two lane road that merged into one just after the light. The roads were wet as it had rained that morning. So I look over at this guy and he's looking at me. The other light goes yellow and he starts creeping into the crosswalk. I hold the brake (4EAT) and the gas, turbo spooling to 1 BAR. I beat him to the merge by two car lengths. AWD Subaru FTW. LOL. For some reason he was pissed, he rode my rump roast (as I did the speed limit) for a quarter mile flashing his high beams. Maybe cause his $60k car was owned by my $800 beater. When it opened up back to two lanes he didn't have the nerve to pull up next to me at the light.

It goes in front of the oil pan, and the stock skid plate still fits just fine.

I installed some cheap $13 rotors from AutoZone and I warped them in about a month. Since then I put on some Brembo rotors and they have been just fine. I use a carbon-kevlar composite brake pad.

I have never seen boost above 7 PSI with the stock ECU, I think it was some "feature" that was never really used. Maybe it works at really high altitude, I have seen about 6000 ft with little effect. Interesting to note that EDM has no solenoid at all. I find it hard to believe that there are no mountains in Europe though. areez, I found this diagram, maybe it will help you: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5894&d=1220592699

Yeah mine cracked near the turbo flange. I've fixed mine twice in the past, and the third time I decided to weld up a header using the existing flanges.

Mine doesn't have a tee that connects to the engine, but it is an '88 (the first year for 4EAT ). If you want, you can just leave the vent hoses off. If you don't go in deep water it shouldn't be a problem; you might see a bit of ATF where the vent nipple is but it won't be much. Not sure why the other side is clogged but if only the tranny side has problems (the dipstick popping out) leaving the hoses off should fix it.

That looks great, good job!

That coil is not designed to operate in the horizontal position. Most coils are filled with oil, and putting them in the wrong position will cause the oil to not cover all the windings, and then it just burns up inside because the oil doesn't cool it correctly. If you bought the 8140HV you would be ok. This coil is epoxy filled (for "High Vibration") and can be mounted in any position.

The 4EAT doesn't have any vacuum hoses or a modulator because it is computer controlled. It's likely your vent hose is clogged. There is a funny shaped hose, kind of like a 'W', that is at the top of the trans near the engine. First remove the dipstick. Then pull one end of the hose off and blow into it, and then put that side back on and pull off the other side and blow into it. It should not have any blockages on either side.

Why not use the stock WGDS? It is a 3-way with a bleed orifice and everything... I agree with GD - you really should use a 3-way solenoid. Your pressure switch has no concept of adjustable gain like a real closed loop boost controller; it's full-on or full-off. Depending on the hysterisis of the switch and the response of the solenoid, it could cycle on and off very quickly, which it's probably not designed for that. This would cause it to have a limited lifetime. You could also have limit cycle oscillations which would make your boost pressure unstable. Either use an open loop controller like a simple PWM driver or use a real closed loop controller. Previously I made my own PWM driver and it worked pretty good but I'd like to up the boost a little more, closer to the limit of my injectors, so I just picked up a Greddy PRofec B spec 2 for $60.

I have 280 ZX-T injectors in my EA82T. Yeah they are about 10% more flow, not a whole lot. I also am running about 25 PSI more fuel pressure by crushing the FPR. Two mods were needed for engine management: I added a potentiometer to the MAF, and I added a relay to make the ECU switch to open-loop a bit sooner under boost. Oh I have some Ford fuel pump too, but you might not need that.

Sounds like fuel cut - the ECU is cutting fuel off because of an overboost situation. Actually the ECU doesn't know boost pressure but it guesses it by the MAF reading. Check your turbo wastegate and see if it's moving freely. It could be rusted shut. You should be able to apply pressure using a "MityVac" type hand pump and it will open up at around 7 PSI. The device in front of the shock is a Wastegate Duty Solenoid. It's not needed, here in the USA it basically does nothing because the ECU never uses it to increase the boost. In other countries it may increase the boost a bit. You can eliminate this device by plumbing the hose nipple right at the compressor output directly to the wastegate; the turbo will then just operate at the wastegate pressure.

I have an 88 GL-10 turbo. The AC 'condenser fan' has not been turning on lately, although in the past it was working. I traced the wiring back to the relay by the left strut tower, and if I apply 12V to the relay the fan does come on... I checked all fuses and they look ok. The AC works fine otherwise, it just doesn't cool very well when moving slowly and the coolant temperature starts climbing; all because the fan is not working of course. I have the 88 XT service manual but the wiring is different on mine. It looks like the XT has two electric fans and mine has one engine driven fan and one electric fan. Anyone have a diagram so I can figure out what wires go where?

It should be possible. The TPS needs "Power (sensor)" of +5.0V from the ECU. A simple voltage regulator LM7805 from Radio Shack and a couple capacitors should be all that is needed to replace this. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599

It should last forever. That's exactly what 609 is for. I believe it can fill up to a 0.25 mm gap; there is some other Loctite that will take up a larger gap but I can't remember the number.

Oh, worn like that. Huh. Well, you could use some Loctite 609 retaining compound. The green stuff. It will take up the gap around the bearing and keep the bearing from moving around in there.