presslab

Either place, the hardware store is cheaper. The auto parts store sells dielectric grease for spark plug wires. The grease at the hardware store for plumbing is very similar, it's just silicone grease. Just squirt some into the connector terminals, you can be a little generous. You can put some on the CTS contacts as well. The "dielectric" in dielectric grease means that it won't conduct electricity. This is good otherwise it will mess up your CTS reading to the computer and it will be confused. The grease will seal out any water that finds it's way into the connector so it won't corrode.

In my van I have 6.6 gallons of propane (for camping) about 8" away from the ground... So having 0.4 gallons of ES-12a (hydrocarbon, very similar to R-12a) in my air conditioning is no big whoop.

When you replace your CTS you should put some dielectric grease (plumbers grease) around the contacts so it won't corrode so easily. Make sure the connector boot is good too and if not fix it up with some sealant. I've had a hard start problem with my EA82T and it turned out to be leaky injectors. Sounds like the CTS will fix your problem.

I've had good luck with my EA82T. All they need is a little love. For exactly a year now I've been running 14 PSI through mine with a TD04L. I haven't blown it up yet! Since these cars aren't worth much people don't do the required preventative maintenance. It's 20+ year old technology too. The turbo engines are more prone to failure than the n/a but that's because they are under more stress and they are more complicated. People love to hate though, and the EA82T is a good target.

That sounds a little spendy for that much, but if you can recover your existing R-12 it might be just the ticket to refill it after you get your AC all up to snuff. I have a lime green Chameleon with an internal gear hub and a 6" fork. Hardtails rule.

Thanks for the info, that's a great summary. Flushing is not real hard, I think the stuff I used was called HECAT. I just poured it into some stuff (not the dryer or compressor) and then blew it out with compressed air. Rinse, repeat. Actually I'm pretty sure the green goo was not dye; it was a "bile green" color if you know what I mean. It was likely due to the previous attempt to convert to R-134a. The R-134a mixed with the R-12 type mineral oil causes corrosion of copper alloys. The compressor also had a lot of brown dirty oil. I didn't flush the compressor (just rinsed it out with clean oil), but I'm sure the rest of the system was dirty too. I'd say for the relative ease a flush is definitely worth it if you want your AC to last a while. www.autoacforum.com has a lot of good stuff. P.S. The other night I had way too much Vodka, and I had the pleasure of seeing that bile green color. That's why I used that as a reference.

I'm gonna guess that it's bad tires, or possibly the CV joints. Reman axles are really hit-or-miss, not sure if yours are remans. Where does the knuckle wear out?

How big of an R-12 can for $25? For the best performance sticking with R-12 will be the way to go. I wish I had R-12 in my car; I have the ES-12A hydrocarbon based refrigerant and it works pretty good, a bit better than R-134a. I recently cleaned up my whole system. Drained all the oil from everything I could get to, flushed the system, new o-rings in most places, cleaned out the dryer (they are expensive, otherwise I'd have replaced it), new Ester oil, and ES-12A. It works well and the compressor doesn't make noise like it used to. You should have seen the green goo I cleaned out of stuff. Yech.

Bummer. Sorry for your loss.

Very cool, the 6MT AWD is a great design. Your work is very impressive. I made my 4EAT in my GL-10 have DCCD (last year ) but it's not as cool as your planetary-gear torque distribution. Mine allows FWD, 75%, 100%, 150%, 200%, 4WD via a little knob next to the shift lever. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=775624

Yeah TPS and RPM from the engine. The rear speed sensor will come from the 4EAT; the front is from the instrument cluster, you'll need to rig something up. You'll also need the gear selector switch inputs as well as brake pedal. It's true, the low clutch is only engaged when the lever is moved. The low clutch locks up the OWC for 1st gear. However it's possible to electronically select gears 1-3 with the lever there. Otherwise there is still engine braking in 2-4 by using the Shift Solenoid 3.

Not sure how long it will take but you'll definitely have to bleed it. My driveway is sloped and if I put the front end up the brake fluid will just pour out the rear bleeder screws making it pretty easy to bleed myself.

I have a newer Snap-On 3/8" cordless impact. It's probably my most favorite tool, I use it for everything from lug nuts to heat shields. They really did their homework - they chose NiCd batteries instead of NiMH because of their low self-discharge rate. After months of not using the spare battery I popped it on and it had full charge.

Thanks for the replies, I'm glad to know it's somewhat common and another column will fix it. I'll keep my eyes open at the local wreckers.

Thanks, I guess. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with nitrogen. My disdain is for the people who insist that nitrogen is required. If nitrogen is on hand use it, by all means.

Just an update, this has been working great. I eventually decided to go with RSF 15wt in the rear instead of 10wt as it was a bit soft when loaded up with mountain bikes on the hitch rack, etc. It doesn't get really cold here, maybe 30 F, but the damping has been just fine from 30F-100F.

It's an '88 GL-10 with 150k miles, power steering. Oh another thing, the power steering goes away if I turn really fast, maybe my pump is shot. With about 10 lbs of pressure I can make the wheel move about 2" up and down. When I hit the expansion joints on the freeway the thing really gets going. The tilt locks firmly but it just has a lot of movement in the 'locked' position. Sounds like something is worn out. I wonder if I can replace the worn out bushings/whatever.

My steering column has some up and down play - it's the one with the tilt function. I looked for loose bolts but everything was tight. It also does not seem very strong; tugging it up and down moves it a decent amount. Anyone else with a tilt column notice if it is somewhat weak feeling? Maybe they are all like that. I was thinking of welding in some stiffening pieces to keep it from bouncing when driving on the crappy freeways here.

Yeah you want a urethane based sealant. You can use Aquaseal if you have a local dive shop, a small tube is about $5.

The tach signal is different. I'm not sure if the EA 4EAT TCU is sensitive enough to use the logic-level tach from the EJ ECU. My educated guess is that it will work; if not you'll need a couple diodes and attach them to the coil pack, no big deal. Without the signal the tranny won't know when to shift. The TPS and other stuff should match up fine.

I'd bet adding a little backpressure would solve it then... I have two cats and 3" muffler with TD04L and have very stable boost, a little over 1 BAR. My car still has to pass California smog. Maybe adding one 2.5" cat would add just enough backpressure for you. Mother Earth would thank you, too. An intercooler will allow the engine to suck in more air and create more power, I don't think it will help your problem. You could try to make a "bellmouth" downpipe, I hear these work well for boost creep. When I last looked at the stock turbo, it looked like the wastegate door hit the downpipe flange, so a bellmouth would help here. Possibly just adding a bunch of gaskets would allow the door to open further. An external wastegate is a good idea but at that point you could just put on a TD04L turbo with a larger wastegate. Without a WGDS I am not sure what your ECU is doing to cut power.

Sounds like a wastegate problem. Try unplugging the WGDS. Here in the USDM the WGDS only works at high altitudes, you have more stock boost so perhaps it works all the time. Pressure test the wastegate system to ensure the actuator opens up and doesn't leak down. A MityVac or similar will work fine for this, or even a bicycle pump with a tire valve. Also, make sure all hoses are connected correctly. If that checks out ok try wiring the actuator open and see if it still overboosts. If it still does, then your wastegate is not flowing enough; either add exhaust restriction (cat), try porting the wastegate, or something more exotic like a new turbo or external wastegate. To reduce fuel cut the only correct way is to add more fuel with larger injectors and/or more fuel pressure. Only then should the MAF be adjusted.

When the struts go bad you can just bend them outward a bit when raised up. Just grab it near where the shaft slides into the strut and bend it. The friction will keep the hatch from falling down.

Double Offset Joint The front has one DOJ on the inner joint to allow the axle to change in length. The rear uses two DOJs. http://www.drive.subaru.com/Fall03_WhatsInside.htm

Nice job, it looks great!