presslab

Doesn't sound like the clutch to me, sounds like the whole compressor is shot. After it stops working, turn the car off and see if you can easily turn the inside part of the compressor clutch by hand. It should move pretty smoothly.

Go big or go home. This puts out over 200A.

I'd even go so far as to say replace all the AC O-rings in the engine compartment. There aren't that many and they're all pretty easy to get to. You can get a metric kit of the HNBR O-rings at your FLAPS. If you see oil/dirt on the fitting where it was leaking, you should put some oil back in. How much is the tricky question, depends on how much leaked out. If you removed the compressor you can get an idea of how much oil is in the system, otherwise if it doesn't seem like a ton leaked out you could throw an ounce of PAG 100 in.

No, it changes the pressure to the rear brakes once it's internal knee point is reached. The pressure in the two circuits is the same because the master cylinder bore is the same. This knee point setting depends on a lot of car/brake parameters. I use a Wilwood adjustable valve on my van because I replaced the front and rear brakes with ones from a different car. It's not trivial to find the optimal/safest adjustment.

The reverse clutch is only used for reverse. There is also the low/reverse clutch which is used in reverse, and when the shifter is in "low". This provides engine braking in 1st gear, otherwise there isn't any. I tried to order the parts from Alto this morning. They won't sell direct. Luckily I know a couple shops that will order it for me, but it's a pain.

I got my high drum (from a Nissan) from eBay and it looks like it will work. I can use the special Alto frictions and fit one extra pair in there. The only downside is that I need to use the older reverse frictions/steels, which are not as wide. Oh well. I think reverse goes out not because the frictions just wear out but more so because the seals on the reverse drum support go bad and let the reverse clutch engage while going forward. I have the special steel sealing rings here that came with the shift kit.

My forward clutch frictions are 36T, 1.6mm, qty 5. The catalog shows that it's for 96-98 Legacy, I'm not sure if it's Outback or not, I'm guessing it is as the trans was mated to an EJ25. To add more frictions I would need to machine the apply piston. Does the forward clutch have problems? My frictions looked fine, and hardly worn.

If you look close at the photo you'll see most of the frictions are worn down to the metal. Yes, the friction is on both sides. Alto offers thinner Kolene steels, but it requires the older high clutch drum, so I need to find one of these. I actually had one but the girlfriend made me throw my old parts away. I have already 5 frictions of the stronger Outback trans, but with the thinner steels I should be able to get 6 frictions. I would also be upgrading to the Red Eagle high energy frictions. I know some phase 2 parts work, for example I have a phase 2 torque converter and input shaft. But without a phase 2 trans here to compare I can't figure it out, unless someone has done it before.

Here's some pics. The last one is the smoked high clutch.

Maybe there are some thinner steels/frictions too, so I can cram more in there. A lot of Nissans use the same trans internals so there's a fair amount of stuff out there but it's hard to know what works with what. The TCU controls the high clutch, so the higher line pressure only makes for firmer shifts. I'll post some photos later of the tear-down.

I've got my '98 4EAT trans apart and I'm about to order some parts to rebuild it. Does anyone have recommendations? I've done the TCU mods to increase cruising line pressure, a shift kit, and a high stall torque converter. I put that into a JDM trans with low miles and the high clutch is shot a year later. It looks like maybe Alto offers a 1.75" carbonite band, and they have some high energy frictions. What does it take to fit another friction/steel in the high clutch? Some machining I guess, and a different pressure plate.

Check the toggle rate on the upstream O2 sensor. Or if that's too complicated you can just replace it with a new one. Do the tires wear funny? Check wheel alignment and pressure.

I have '02 WRX seats in my 88 GL-10. They are pretty tall, I'm 6'1" and there is no headroom to spare. I used the old seat rails. On the drivers side I needed to weld angle iron to the old rail to work with the lifting mechanism, I also removed the assist spring so the seat would go lower. The pass side needs a custom bracket for the seat back, as this is part of the removed WRX rail. Now, if your short you could build it easier but there will be less headroom.

Sure thing. I've added an external trans cooler to mine, so I notice this even more. And actually I've modified the TCU software to change these temperature set-points a bit, as I think stock they are too high, but this is obviously pretty difficult. My bet is that Subaru is trying to get the temp up quickly for emissions reasons.

I'll take driveline for 100, Alex.

The trans must warm up to a certain temp before it will change to 4th gear. And then it must warm up a bit more before the torque converter will lock up. This is to help warm up the engine and trans. Does your engine get to temp quickly? Maybe you could block the radiator with cardboard to help it warm up faster.

Oil consumption you say? Hmm, that can effectively lower the octane of the fuel. Did you try premium fuel to see if it helped? There are a few different fuel trims. Short Term Fuel Trim, which is what the car learns quickly since you started the car, and Long Term which it learns over many minutes and remembers. Ideally they should be zero percent. Short term will move around somewhat, that's okay. +/-20% is bad. Also there are separate trims for idle.

Hmm, could be a knock sensor issue, but sounds like it's leaning out. What are your fuel trims at after driving for a while? I'm going to guess PCV valve or a cracked hose. If you know someone with a smoke machine it makes finding leaks easy.

Does it pull to one side when you press the brakes? After you turn the car off, can you get a few pumps out of the brake pedal before it goes hard?

I'd guess the EJ25D ECU would have somewhat lower timing vs the EJ22E one. I looked for a ROM for that ECU so I could look at the timing but I didn't see one out there. But not running premium! There you go. With the ECU already pulling the timing because of the higher compression ratio, there is no room for error. I'd say the rust on the cylinder walls would reduce compression slightly... I've never heard of rust causing catastrophic blowby though. Seems like it would be more of an oil consumption problem. Cometic can make that hybrid gasket in lots of different thicknesses, can't they? I used the Subaru MLS EJ25D gasket and I had to drill out the passages. What a PITA.

Yeah the wiper is inside, can't see it. There is a gap between the rotating part and the housing that I sprayed into while turning it back and forth. Also need to make sure it's adjusted right or the engine will jerk slightly when going from decel to accel while cruising.

I'm curious as to what it turns out to be. In my experience with tuning my frankenmotor I found the timing using the stock EJ22E ECU to be much too advanced, even running premium fuel. Not sure anybody heeded my warning though. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129946-frankenmotor-and-ecu-hacking/

Yeah it could be the MAF (aka AFM) too. They get bad solder joints, you need to take the lid off with a sharp knife to resolder it. I had this happen too, but it wouldn't just stumble it would cut out and jerk, and it would throw a code. But it's certainly possible.

I had a similar problem and it was a dirty TPS. I used some Radio Shack lubricated contact cleaner to fix it.

Not the torque converter, it works the same in forward and reverse. Also not likely the transmission computer. Reverse gear is engaged mechanically, check the cable and linkage. Does park and neutral work as expected? Otherwise, yes, could be a smoked reverse clutch. What happens is that an internal leak allow the reverse clutch to be slightly engaged while driving forward, thereby quickly burning up the clutch plates.