presslab

Thanks Patrick! The knee is doing great actually, it's been three months since the surgery. I am riding my mountain bike a lot and I'm going to take my motorcycle today for a little ride. Don't hesistate to ask, I'd be happy to help. I knew I said that I wouldn't want more power. But you know, I had this TD04 sitting there and when I made my headers I modified the flange to work with both turbos... Yesterday I started the TD04 install. This is going to be a "smog invisible" mod too. I clocked the compressor housing to point straight up, this will allow the stock intake pipe to be installed for smogging. I have a WRX stock downpipe on the way, with cats and all, so that will look stock too. The turbo oil drain hose fits perfect. The oil feed pipe works fine, and the support bracket can be flattened and it will bolt to the compressor housing. The coolant pipes from the VF7 worked with a few small bends, and I removed the metal that connected the two pipes together. The coolant hoses are fine. I cut the wastegate actuator bracket off and I'm going to weld on a new one. I'll post some pics later.

Still running good, not blown up yet! Needed to do CA smog the other day. Pulled off the intercooler. (It's supposed to be smog legal but didn't want to deal with it.) There aren't many visible mods, the only one being the custom header. It passed just fine!

Thanks! Unfortunately that is indeed the number on the strut. :-\ The left side says 21082GA161. The right strut also says "Tokico 8 Y 2". Left strut "Tokico 9 X 18".

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I have Goodridge WRX front & rear SS hoses on mine. In the front where it goes through the strut it is a little too big, so the clip doesn't fit perfect...but it works. In the rear there is no mount for the center attachment, so I put some rubber hose over the SS hose so it wouldn't rub on the attachment point. The banjo bolt on the rear was no problem, I used the ones included in SS hose package. I lightly sanded the sealing surface on the caliper and it bolted together, no leaks, no problem.

I saw part 21082GA151 on my right front strut, looks like it is worn. As in not worn out damping wise but the strut shaft has slop in it. I installed camber plates and the slight clunk I heard before is magnified 10x now. I bought those struts used and they were not originally on a 88 GL-10 Wagon. Could someone tell me what car these came on? Thanks!

I suppose you could rotate the plates the "wrong" way to get more positive camber. The most you would get is about +2 degrees more camber, which I think that leaves you with -3.5 degrees? That is still too much. The camber plates, mounted the "wrong" way will also push the tires further out of your wheel well which could cause rubbing My guess is that you have a bent knuckle, and it would be better to replace that.

Looking at the factory schematic, it looks like you should connect as follows: [/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]Sirius Subaru[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]-----------------[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]black black[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]red blue/yellow[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys]yellow green[/FONT][FONT=Fixedsys] Hope that helps.

I installed Tein camber plates (PAS12-31PFR from subarupartsoutlet.com) onto my 88 GL-10 wagon w/ air suspension. I didn't order the Tein M12 nuts so I used some M12x1.25 'mag' lug nuts like WJM did; I suspect the Tein nuts would have worked as well. I was able to reattach the air line without any problem, and there was enough clearance to push the strut all the way in. I think that gave me about 2 deg more negative camber so it should be about -0.8 deg right now.

I used a regular grease gun loaded with the 14oz tube of Dow 111, and used a short piece of hose to attach the gun to the air bag inlet after removing the solenoid valve. I measured the volume going into the shock by measuring the length of the shaft protruding from the grease gun.

The top part (with the connector) will pop off at the seam; use a razor blade in the seam to coax it off. It is adjustable, two screws and the heater part is slotted. In this way it is easy to adjust the fast idle speed. The cover will snap back on but a bit of super glue will keep it together. If you leave it hooked up to power it will slowly open up.

Sweet, I'm looking forward to seeing your improved numbers. The larger tires will have little effect, if any. They DO reduce torque, but at the same time they increase speed. The power remains the same. If anything they will increase your torque numbers because powertrain loss will be lower because it is turning slower.

High HC is probably too rich.. And high NOx is too lean/too advanced ignition. Sounds like your mixture is all over the place. Did you verify the ECU is closing the loop? Put a voltmeter on the O2 sensor wire and it should swing between 0.8V and 0.2V thereabouts. At idle it will swing about once per second and at 2k RPM it should do it a few times per second. Oh and alcohol in the tank will help with HC and CO but not NOx.

Sounds like you are off a tooth...

I also change my motorcycle tires by hand. Changing the 185/70-13 is easier. It takes me about two minutes to change a tire. The tire changer is holding up well. Not everything from Harbor Freight is junk, just some things.

I have some dish soap watered down probably 10:1, seems just right. The sidewall on the 50 series were quite stiff as they were "Ultra-high performance" tires. Even the guy at the tire shop needed to coax the tire on with another iron while using the tire machine.

Yes I have that exact one. Super easy on the Subaru 185/70-13. Bubble balance it after, works great. Better balance than the inattentive shop monkey with the spin balancer. Tried to mount 205-50/15, no freaking way! 50 series way too hard, impossible even. So for 70 series tires on steel wheels, it works great. Also did some truck tires 215/75-15, load C, a bit tough but do-able.

Just another confirmation, my 88 GL-10 turbo 4EAT has 25 splines. I bought cheap Kragen axles and had to return a couple but the latest set is going strong and it only takes a half hour to switch it out.

I paid $230 shipped to my door from ebay for the rims... Yeah 6" with the same 5.25" backspacing would be good, the tire would be 1/4" further in.

99 Isuzu Rodeo; I mentioned it in the first post. I turned the front wheel so it showed the profile of the tire. I have some ideas on how to lower it, although I'm not sure how much the handling would be improved... Remember, it has the air bag suspension which I'm not getting rid of.

So a follow up. Since I didn't feel confident opening up the shocks, I decided to stiffen up the spring rate. Just pushing on the bumper it was obvious how soft it was, especially compared to the front. How to do that with air bags? Reduce the internal volume of the bag so the stiffness ramps up quicker. I injected 7oz of silicone grease (Dow Corning 111) into each rear air bag. I could probably stand to inject more. But it seems a lot better so far!

Looks like they might be close to the right backspacing too. I deflated a rear bag and checked clearance when bottomed. There is about 1/8" between the fender lip and the tire.

I guess not much interest in 6lug for street. Here's how she looks:

I wanted to get some 15" wheels for my 88 GL-10 Wagon. Options were pugs, 5lug suspension swap, and drill hubs for 6lug. I have the air suspension and I want to keep it cause it works good, and I didn't like the look of pug wheels and they were hard to find. So I machined the hubs for 6 lug. I sized the lug holes to 13.9mm and spot faced the hubs to 22mm. The studs are from an Isuzu front. The studs pressed in perfectly. Here are some pics: [/url] http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20969 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20966 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20965 This wheel is going to be the spare. It is from a Nissan Xterra/Frontier; 7x15" with a backspacing of 5.5". The tire is 205-50/15. The backspacing is more than stock (5.25") and the clearance is tight, but it seems like no rubbing. The other wheels are from a 99 Isuzu Rodeo. They are 6.5x15" with a backspacing of 5.25". These should fit perfect. I don't have these other tires mounted yet; I'll post an update when I get it all together. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20970