presslab

I'm not sure what my problem was; it seemed the u-joints were not quite the correct width. When I solved the vibration issue, I used a digital caliper to measure the depth of the cups, and nudged them around until they were centered exactly. The clips were not tight up against the yoke at this point, but the cups were a pretty tight fit in the yoke so I didn't worry too much. After doing this, the vibration issue was solved and I have been driving on the new joints for a couple years now.

I had two of my u-joints in my driveshaft go bad and it caused vibrations at around 40 MPH. Once the driveshaft parts were out it was obvious that the u-joints were partially siezed up. I replaced them all with the clip in Rockford kind but I had a tough time getting them centered. After I got that sorted out the driveshaft now works like it should without any vibration.

Bull $hit, meaning that it is not true, "a load of crap." Even the tires say Turbo on them.

Wow, even a period-correct three-wheeler in the back! Nice.

Beware of the copper tube, I once did something similar and the tube eventually cracked from the small vibrations. If you do go the copper tube route, make sure you stress relieve the tube after you bend it. Heat up the tube pretty hot with a torch at the bends and let it slowly cool down. When I did mine, I ordered the intake elbow, and all the turbo hoses from the dealer. It wasn't that expensive. Your engine looks nice and clean. Jealous!

I didn't take my turbo off. But it was a big PITA, might have been easier to take it off.

Oh yeah, I meant inlet hose. The hose part is not really in that diagram; it's not straight it has a couple sharp bends in it. It might just be a loose clamp too, you never know.

This photo is of the oil return line, so that's not the one. It's up higher and between the turbo and the head; that's probably the one that blew up. The other turbo coolant line is visible from the top of the engine and it's just a straight hose.

Just after I bought my car I had the turbo coolant return hose explode, blow out all my coolant, and then both heads cracked! Yay! Get an original Subaru hose. It includes a metal heat shield so the turbo doesn't cook the hose so much. I think the hose might be made of silicone rubber as well because it felt different than a normal hose. I also replaced every coolant hose in the engine bay, and when I get around to it I'm going to install something like this: http://forums.bauchan.org/4x4/viewtopic.php?pid=8981

Maybe a leaking injector? If you run it for a while, stop the engine, and immediately restart, does it fire right up? If it doesn't start at that point then it is probably something else.

Wiper drains and windshield leaks are two I had, although the way the wipers are the driver's side is more likely to leak.

o2 sensor +1 Check the cycle count or just make sure it's toggling with a multimeter.

My '88 GL-10 EA82T has a coolant/electric heated bimetallic vane to control idle air flow. Maybe your XT doesn't have that by the sound of your post? On mine the ECU doesn't control idle speed so much. I believe it does control timing to keep the ending from dying. If yours is like mine, maybe it's not plugged in. I believe it gets 12V all the time the engine is running. Oh and 22MPG sounds about right for an EA82T... I get a bit better than that sometimes but my last fillup I got about 18MPG from around town driving.

My GL-10 has a height button, it gains about 2" I think. It does start noticably start topping out when in the high mode, I'm not sure I'd want to drive around with it much higher. I've been thinking about doing the reverse and having a low mode, lower than normal height. I'd lose the auto leveling though, because the location of the height switches aren't in the right spot.

Well, I checked it out. On the side of the shock it says "gas charged do not disassemble". :-\ I can't tell for sure but I think it is a monotube shock which means I have to take it all apart to change the fluid. The lower shock eyelet is roll-crimped onto the shock housing; that would be the place to start disassembly. I wish I would have kept my old shocks so I could disassemble them. Oh well I think I'll leave it alone for now.

Sure, when I get the guts to drill one I'll take a few pics. The damping is soft even unloaded. For example, when I go over a bump on the freeway, like an overpass or something, the front takes the bump nicely, but the rear end squats and bounces a couple times after the bump is over. When I get it loaded up, the rear end is even worse of course. I bought the front stuts used (low mile), maybe they were off a XT. In any case, the damping seems a lot stiffer. The rear struts always seemed soft, even when new.

Thanks Gary, I was thinking of the shock absorbers. I bought new rear shocks a few years ago (with the air bags) but they still are a bit soft in the damping department... The front seem fine for whatever reason. It probably sounds crazy but I was thinking of replacing the oil with something thicker. I don't know if I'm going to have to recharge them after I drill it and change the fluid. I could add a shrader valve maybe to recharge them; I did this with a mtb shock and it worked fine. I know I could change the bags to springs but I like the self leveling feature. I load tons of SCUBA stuff in the back, about 400 lbs, so I want to keep the bags.

Does anyone know if the stock air bag shocks on my 88 GL-10 are nitrogen charged? If compressed, are they supposed to extend on their own?

Is this the faulty component the same as in the other thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=718197&postcount=27

I don't know about the dryer. I didn't replace anything when I did mine.

In my ea82 I run ~20 lbs low side, fast idle, at 80F ambient. Much more than that and the compressor cycles too much. In a retrofit, R134a should be run at a slightly lower pressure. It's been in the 90s here lately and the AC is working great. You can't really use the sight glass anymore.. The old oil will make it look milky even at the correct charge.

Mine lined up pretty much exactly with the plastic, there was no question what tooth they went on. For whatever it's worth.

When I bought my 88 wagon the previous owner had replaced the starter. It still occassionally did not start but a quick tap on the solenoid would get it going. The solenoid wasn't bad, it was the ignition switch; I put a relay inline and haven't had any problems since. So it could be a combination of problems, but if you direct jump to the solenoid from the battery and it doesn't turn over then it's probably not the ignition switch.

Yes, the knock wire goes to the ECU. I too had a knock code on my 88 turbo. It turned out to be the wire in the engine harness! Check it for continuity and short to ground. I ran another one and that fixed the code. On the subject of knock sensors, mine was false triggering at high RPM, probably due to my 150k mile engine. I put a 470k resistor in series with the signal wire to desensitize it. It's been working great. I upgraded my injectors (280ZXT) with a simple mod to the MAF and a relay for the O2 sensor in my "Turbo o2 sensor" thread.

The traces are most likely burned because a component has failed and shorted. Look at the big transistor components (larger black three lead devices) and check them with a ohmmeter. If any two pins are less than a few ohms than it's probably bad. You can carefully desolder it and check it again and if it's still shorted than that is probably it. The way to know for sure if the component is bad is to download the datasheet and check the pins for their function. Like on a BJT transistor you can check the BE and BC voltage drop with the diode test function on a multimeter. The other stuff to the right looks like glue.