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Does anyone know what type of O2 sensor the turbos use? I'm trying to track down my surging at mid-heavy throttle problem. The "power waves." I have been using a regular Bosch universal sensor (Zerconia) but I think the problem is that it doesn't respond fast enough. I have the original sensor and the voltage swing is much greater than the Bosch one. I think it is a Titania type versus the Zerconia. The Titania are not very common, the Bosch web site says they are used in 0.5% of all cars. The Titania are also much faster responding than the Zerconia ones. Maybe this is the source of the infamous turbo surging problem, I dunno. I am running the original (old) sensor and so far the surging is gone. The problem is intermittent so time will tell. I'd still like to get a new sensor though, but the price for the exact replacement one is a lot. I also think I can come up with a way to easily use the 260cc injectors with the stock engine management system. I have figured out how to modify the hot wire MAF to adjust the output signal. My engine was so very rich at WOT so I leaned it out by adjusing the MAF. It actually pulls hard all the way to redline where as before the power dropped off. I hope for better mileage too. It involves opening up the MAF and adding a variable resistor. I ordered the 260cc injectors and I'll have a go at making it work. I'm not sure how the fuel map and timing map will work out. If the 260cc injectors work then next is a simple PWM circuit to drive the boost duty solenoid. I plan on 11 lbs of boost.

Wow I've been super busy lately. Anyway finally removed the driveshaft and yep - the front joint is locked up. I got three new ones ready to go in, I'm going to give it a go. The driveshaft shop said that the replacement ones could be sketchy and they wanted $350 to weld new yokes on. Thanks for the advice everyone.

I have an 88 GL-10 turbo w/ 4EAT. I've been noticing a bad vibration at exactly 10 MPH, and faster than that it's gone. Also when it warms up it's gone. I feel it in the whole car, and not so much the steering wheel. It was just barely there but in the span of a week it's got really bad. It does it in neutral too. So far I've removed a rear axle, swapped the tires around with the spare, and lifted the front of the car and ran it. I can't figure it out. Next I'm gonna take the driveshaft out. Any ideas?

Check your caliper bolts as well as the caliper carrier bolts. They might be rubbing the back side of the rotor. Especially if you forgot the washer or put a bolt back in the wrong spot. Easy to do, just turn the rotor and start loosening bolts. If the noise goes away when you back a bolt out, it's probably rubbing on that bolt. Of course don't drive the car with loose bolts...

Try some seafoam in the gas tank. It cleaned up my idle.

I had the Yakima rack that bolted to the existing roof rack rails. The roof is so flimsy though I was worried! The wiggling of the bike caused the roof to bend substantially so this is what I did: I used the rain gutter mounts on the front bar which holds the forks, and I used the roof-rail mounts on the rear bar which just cradled the rear tire. My bike mount is the normal style which holds the fork legs. Works great! The front bar is super strong now which is what takes the side to side load. Also I could move the front bar forward over the sunroof which allowed me to open the hatch all the way. (Something to think about!) It does whistle at freeway speeds if I have the sunroof open. Oh well.

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I had this same problem, I replaced the ignition switch and the previous owner put a new starter in. Still did it occasionally and was starting to bug me! So I installed a Bosch relay right at the starter, and my problems have never returned! Seems to be a common problem. I think the design is marginal and adding the relay makes it a much more robust system.

Make sure your O2 sensor is toggling, i.e. check the voltage on the signal wire (not the heating element) and make sure it is bouncing around from about 0.3 to 0.8 V, this would be after letting the engine idle for a minute. My idea: Maybe open loop when the O2 sensor is cold it worked fine and as soon as it went into closed loop it crapped out, and the red exhaust is from a super lean condition caused by a faulty O2 sensor or something like that. Anyway this can tell you a lot, if the computer can't close the loop (toggling O2 sensor voltage) then something is wrong, maybe bad O2 or wiring, maybe vacuum leak or MAF sensor. Ryan

I replaced my windshield myself, it cost $82 for a PPG one. It was cracked, and all rusted around the frame and leaking (ventilated sheet metal), so I fixed that when I put the new windshield in. Imagine my dismay when the first heavy rains came it was leaking again. :-\ Turns out it was water leaking in through the wiper arm hole when I parked up my driveway.. The drain hole right by the wiper arm hole had a itty bitty leaf neatly laid over the hole. I also park backwards now just in case that hole gets plugged up again!

Oh as a sidebar to what I said before the grey sealer, (an anaerobic type) said on the back to apply it to both sides and let it dry for one minute, in contrast to what the ultra copper said. So when I let it dry for one minute it really dried a lot! I thought DANG it's already dry and won't work when I put it together! But it worked out okay. Did you allow the anaerobic sealer you used to dry like that? Also I don't know the temperature rating but I think ultra copper is higher than the grey stuff. Anyway Yes I think the grey type is as least better than the ultra copper for this application, on the exhaust maybe the ultra copper is better. This is what I used: http://www.permatex.com/motorcycle/PermMotoSeal.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=29132 They specifically state cam covers... I don't know what the difference between "Ultra Grey" and "Ultimate Grey" but I used the Ultimate stuff.

Ok it's been a week since I fixed it and no leak! The ultra copper was still gooey when I took it apart, I think I see now why to use a "anerobic" sealer, the "anerobic" means it dries without air. I put the o-ring cord in there and it looked pretty good. I ended up using 2.0 mm o-ring cord as the 1.6 mm was too small. Also I put some of that grey sealer on there for good measure. My soob is now drip free! Thanks for the help guys.

Join this yahoo group: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/ And check the files and links sections. Some factory diagrams and some other stuff too. Just don't tell 'em you're putting the engine in something other than a Vanagon, they are touchy about that.

Thanks for the well wishes, I need all I can get. So do you mean let the RTV "dry" slightly before putting the parts together? Or to let it dry for at least 15 mins before running the engine? I didn't let it set up before assembling but I did let the car sit overnight before starting it. I just read the Ultra Copper directions again and it says to assemble immediately but to not tighten so much that the silicone squeezes out... Hmm maybe that is the problem? I should have loosely assembled it and then torqued it down after it dries all the way?

Thanks for the replies. I did clean it really good BUT I think some oil leaked out of the hole in the head before I got the two halves together. So I'm really going to take my time when I do it again and even try to vacuum some of the oil out so it won't drip on my new seal. I'll also get some anaerobic sealer and use that. One more thing though, I read how an Aussie used o-ring cord in the groove around the cam tower. I ordered some o-ring cord, 1.6 mm, and I'm going to see if it looks like a good idea when I put it back together. Has anyone heard of this method? The thread is here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=648486 Look at the end of the page. Thanks!!

I just tried to repair my cam tower leak, used a new reinforced o-ring and "Ultra Copper" RTV sealer. But now a couple days later it is leaking again, you can see where the silicone was squeezed out right near where the o-ring is. Good thing it is the pass side. I'm thinking maybe some other type of sealer, like "Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker" or "Ultra Gray". And / or should I use a bigger o-ring, maybe a silicone rubber one?

I had this exact problem, turned out the bolts that attach the radius arm bracket to the frame were loose, tightened them up and it's gone... It would also clunk if I stop really fast.