presslab

Probably a bad charcoal canister. Filling the tank causes gas fumes to get pushed into the vent line and then into the charcoal canister. If the canister doesn't work right (or is plumbed wrong) it will fill the intake with gas fumes and cause hard starting. As a test remove the small vacuum line from the canister and plug it. Then fill the tank and see what happens. If the canister is indeed your problem, please fix it as the emissions from the gas tank are huge.

Nixie tubes are cool. I built a clock a while back with them and used it on my nightstand. The girlfriend was always afraid of it because of the high voltage and I never put it in a case. You can easily take the tach input and the vehicle speed sensor and figure out what gear you are in with simple math. Take care to "sanitize" these signals before hooking them to your Ardunio/whatnot. Something like a 10k series resistor and a 4.7V zener diode would suffice. If the clutch is in, of course this doesn't work but you could wire into the clutch switch to not change the gear indicator until the clutch is released. Your 2000 model ECU would use the Subaru Select Monitor interface II. You could read the vehicle/engine speed over this, but it's probably easier to just use the signals as above.

Snow will not affect the ABS wheel sensor as it operates on magnetic reluctance. Unless the snow bent or broke something, but then it wouldn't work all the time. To the OP, you should be able to pull the ABS code to give you a better idea of what's going wrong.

Sounds to me like your TCU is locking up/rebooting. Check power to the TCU, grounds, loose fuses, connectors, etc. Could just be a bad TCU. The speed sensor codes are probably because you don't have the right TCU. Tire size is irrelevant, the TCU doesn't know or care what these are as long as they're all the same. The TCU requires the ratio of the speedometer gear and the final drive to be the same. If they are close, there won't be codes but AWD will be adversely affected.

Yes that canister is used for the HVAC pushbutton controls.

I read that those in the rust belt don't use their parking brake, it's sure hard on a transmission. It's probably not the shift cable alignment if it's making noise in drive. The pawl can be accessed from the tail housing of the transmission, the whole trans doesn't need to be removed. There is also the actuating rod that can be accessed by removing the pan, but that's probably okay as it's spring loaded and not under much force.

Ethanol has a HIGHER octane rating than gasoline, that's why the turbo guys love to run E85. With 85% ethanol it's 105 octane. It has significantly less energy content as mentioned above, this is why it gets worse mileage. But the octane rating is what your H6 engine cares about. So a 91 octane with 15% ethanol will have the same detonation resistance as 91 octane with no ethanol. Running ethanol in a vehicle made before 2001 is asking for trouble, however, as the rubber components were not designed to work with ethanol. I run 91 octane year round in my 3.0 H6.

My reservoir is small, just for expansion. It's located next to the intercooler, you can see the pink coolant and the cap just to the upper left. If I were to add a big reservoir it would be in the fender next to the pump, away from the engine heat. But already the system is 3 liters coolant so it's not bad. Yes the engine is EJ20G with TD05-16G turbo. Do you know why your buddy said not to do the killer chiller? It's a lot of extra piping, and I heard that it's bad for drag racing because of the water dripping on the track when running A/C.

Thanks a lot Nico, I've been enjoying your build. I know you did AWIC for a while with a smaller setup and now are FMIC. I have some information from my temperature logging. The intercooler is more than sufficient, the highest temperature seen at the output is only 15 F above the water temperature, usually it's around 10 F. That also means the coolant pump is working good. Very pleased about that. The recovery rate from the radiator seems good, but it's hard to tell as it's not summertime. More testing is needed here. I've been toying with the idea of a "killer chiller" clone. This is where the air conditioning is tied into the AWIC coolant; people say it works awesome and can cool the AWIC to well below ambient. There are some cheap heat exchangers at DudaDiesel, and now that I have a recovery machine I have all the equipment to do this. Maybe the heat exchanger could be mounted in the spare tire well behind the intercooler, or if I make a good heat shield it can go above the turbo. The original "killer chiller" puts the heat exchanger in series with the cabin evaporator so this compromises the cooling in the car. My plan is run in parallel with a tee off the liquid line, a solenoid valve, and a separate TXV. This way I can control my "killer chiller" with the ECU as well, so under highway driving I'm not wasting my A/C cooling down the radiator...

The CANbus is not just a wiring problem. There's CAN connecting to everything, like the instrument cluster. So now you need to swap the instrument cluster, good luck getting that to fit right. It's tied into the ABS so now you need to swap the whole brake system. You get the idea...

It's odd your resistance is somewhat high, but not shorted or open. This is why the TCU doesn't throw a code, but there still seems to be something wrong. It would be unusual for a solenoid to fail that way, but it could be. I'd suspect the connector inside the trans, you can get to it from the tailhousing. Or you can get to it from the pan but then you can't check out the transfer clutch. While you're in there you should put new frictions and steels in the transfer clutch, and check the basket for deep grooving.

Those are for the factory air conditioning. The first photo shows the two plugs for the AC relays. The second photo is for the AC pressure switch, and the third photo is for the AC compressor.

I've completed my air to water intercooler install in my GL-10 wagon and EJ20G engine. My desire for the upgrade from the WRX TMIC were for less heat soak and more consistent power in the summer. I figured I'd document my results for anyone thinking of doing something similar. Parts used: Frozenboost type 14 intercooler Frozenboost type 118 radiator Jabsco 50840-0012 pump GM Reservoir (pn 25884797) and 5 PSI cap (pn 15076936) Generic Turbo XS type BOV Fulree 12/24V IN 9V 5A OUT DC/DC converter Metri-pack 280 waterproof connectors From DiscountHydraulicHose.com: 4503-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF 45° qty 2 4503-12-12 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 3/4" NPTF 45° qty 1 4501-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF 90° qty 1 5409-04 -- 1/4" NPTF Hex Socket Plug qty 1 4404-12-08 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPTF qty 1 4404-12-12 -- 3/4" Hose Barb x 3/4" NPTF qty 1 This is what I received from Frozenboost: I wanted to keep my AC condenser and trans cooler so that meant I needed to cut the bumper beam. I tried to keep most of the material and I beefed it back up a bit by welding some metal alongside what was left. Here's how much I cut out: And here's the radiator mounted. Half of the radiator is behind the bumper beam, with that small gap there for airflow. I might cut more out after I get a feel for the how much heat the radiator can shed. You can see here that to work with the cut the bumper beam I trimmed the plastic, re-used the metal strip, and redrilled the holes to mount the bumper skin. The lower fitting was perfect at 45 degrees, but the upper fitting needed to be more like 70 degrees to pass through the existing hole in the body. I cut and TIG welded the fitting and it didn't even leak. The pump is mounted in the passenger fender. The brackets were welded to the bumper beam so no holes or welding on the body were necessary. The outlet hose runs up and around the back of the headlight and down to the frame rail. The flow routing could be hooked up a number of ways, but I decided I liked the Mercedes type routing the best. Intercooler->Reservoir->Radiator->Pump Here is the intercooler mounted. I made a metal bracket that bolts to the spare tire hold-down nut and attaches to the back of the intercooler. The bracket is flexible which allows the intercooler to move a bit as the engine twists. Also there is a metal tab for the reservoir on the same bracket. Now I'm getting some data from the system. I've tested the pump at different voltages and measured the flow rate with a paddle wheel flow meter I got on eBay. I tested it by filling up a 5 gallon bucket. It's pretty big and doesn't seem to affect the flow rate. At 12.8V the pump draws 6A and flows 5.0 GPM. This is pretty good I think! This pump is also smooth and silent. At 8.5V the pump draws 3.2A and flows 3.1 GPM. At 5V the pump draws 1.8A and flows 1.25 GPM. My plan is to use the "5th injector" relay that the EJ20G ECU has which is unused to run the pump at full voltage when under heavy load. When just cruising I will run the pump through a 9V regulator which will drop the power by half and increase the life of the pump. I will be adding my own code to the EJ20G ECU to control this relay. My algorithm thoughts are full speed for couple minutes at power on (for heat soak), full speed when above a certain load, and full speed for a couple minutes after load. Results are great so far. I've been able to increase timing by a few degrees, more boost, and most importantly more consistent power. Heat soak is much better, although it could be improved. Heat shields and a reservoir would work well; I think a pretty big reservoir could be made up to fit inside the fender. I've now installed a couple thermocouples to log IAT2 and coolant temp and I'll post my results later.

The turbo trans has more clutch discs and a different brake band servo, so to have it shift right you'll need the same TCU. But you could use an early < 92 Legacy AWD TCU, IIRC t hese are 3.9 ratio, just the shifting will be off. I could use the TCU for parts, and I'll pay shipping. Send me a PM. Also I will dump the ROM and email it to you.

The two different flex plates have a different bolt circle, so I don't think that's your problem. Make sure you have the right bolts; the correct bolts have a flange head that is shorter than normal.

Actually, we're both wrong. Oh, the arrogance! They used to measure the viscosity at 0 F, but now in SAE J300 they don't really measure viscosity. Each weight class (0W, 5W, 30, 40, etc) has a defined set of parameters that the oil must meet. In the Nov 2007 version of SAE J300, with 5W the cranking test is at -30C and the pumping test is at -35C. Anyway I think the temperature these contrived tests are run at is not really relevant to this conversation. With a synthetic versus a non-synthetic of the same viscosity rating, it won't make a difference in cold starting. However there are some synthetics that offer a greater viscosity range. For example while there are some synthetic 0W-50 oils out there, non-synthetic 0W-50 doesn't exist.

The viscosity modifiers in today's non-synthetic oils are pretty good. It used to be the case that synthetic had a much better viscosity index, but now not so much. The "winter" grade rating (the 5W in 5W-30) is measured at 0 deg F. The viscosity index is similar for a synthetic 5W-30 as is a dino 5W-30, which would make sense as they have the same viscosity ratings. Where synthetic really shines is in wear protection (dry starts, high heat) and also resistance to overheating and coking. Synthetic also has better stability so over time the viscosity will remain consistent; this is why oil change intervals can be longer with synthetic. I use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40.

I had something like this happen a while ago. I used some Loctite thread sealer and it didn't leak. Make sure to clean the threads with brake clean (acetone) really well. You could use a stud there so you don't have to mess with it in the future.

Everyone is entitled to their own level of craftsmanship. The fact is that the angle is different and it stresses the mounts. I have used those Oz shims and they do work great. If you've actually used those solid axle shims maybe you could post a link to the ones that you used.

Here you go, from our friends down under! RSR_555 is a top notch guy. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19020

First, make sure the drugstore manager knows your plight, I'm sure they'll cut you some slack. The electrical hot-wiring is easy. No need to cut the wires though, just unplug the ignition switch and use jumper wires. The problem is in the steering lock. There's a fair amount of stuff you'll need to disassemble to get this apart, I doubt you can just stick a screwdriver in it to disable the steering lock. You could just break the steering lock but it would be cheaper just to get a tow than to fix that mess. If you do get a tow, make sure they flatbed, use wheel dollys, or remove the driveline to keep from damaging the AWD. And to state the obvious, once you get a new key cut by code, make a couple spares.

You are probably looking at the shaft for the pinion gear. The input (aka turbine) shaft is deep inside, no way to see it from there. This site is very limited on photos, you'll need to link to an external site like picasa or photobucket.

Wow, that is tight. Did you try tapping it in deeper? Kind of like tightening a bolt before loosening it, to break the bond. But man I love that tool, every time I use it it feels like cheating. I know people say to leave the RMS alone, but I always replace it and no problems so far after doing maybe 6 of them. Those speedi sleeves should go on pretty easy, but I could see how a burr deep inside would be hard to file down. My thoughts on replacing the converter seal... I recently rebuilt my 4EAT and I did that seal of course, but installing it with the stator shaft in the way will be tough. I'd say give it a good visual, and make sure the spring on the sealing lip is still in place. Also try to look inside at the bushing to make sure it's not gouged up. I'd guess you didn't damage the pump. If the converter spins real smooth when seated it's probably okay. Here's to wishing you better luck in the new year.

You should buy yourself a Christmas gift, for next time. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K/

Higher stall speed is great especially for a turbo motor. I had ProTorque modify my WRX converter to increase the stall speed. Other than the money (heh) there have been no downside.