presslab

16 flashes just means something is wrong, it's not a code. You need to go through the sequence with the shift lever, etc. described on that web site to read the actual code.

3rd and reverse only means that the transmission computer isn't working. No power light confirms it. Check the fuses, the harness plugs by the trans, and the plugs at the trans computer.

I know on the older ones you can perform the "secret handshake" to get the codes to flash without any reader. Maybe it will work on yours. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

The 4EAT MPT (and by extension VTD) do not require slippage to transfer torque. The torque transfer is calculated based on throttle position, gear selector position, current gear, and road speed. If the torque transfer from the calculation is not enough and the wheels still slip, then the computer will detect this and apply even more torque. If there is a mechanical problem with the MPT (which is common) then the calculated torque transfer will not be adequate, and there will be a delay in torque transfer. The viscous coupler of the manual transaxle does not require slippage either, as it is paired with a differential gear set. In this way the torque is 50/50 if all wheels have traction. When one wheel loses traction, the viscous coupler will increase torque transfer to the front or rear, whichever has more traction. Neither require slippage to transfer torque. In my opinion both systems are excellent, when working properly.

So it shifts firmly through the gears when accelerating, but downshifting to 3rd it just freewheels? If the shifter is in 3, do you have engine braking? In 3rd, there are three clutches engaged, the "High" clutch, the "Forward" clutch, and the "3-4 OWC". The "High" clutch is used in 3rd and 4th gears, and is known for burning out. The "Forward" clutch is used in all forward gears, and doesn't commonly fail. With the shifter in 3 the OWC is bypassed by the "Overrunning" clutch, and it's unlikely both have failed. If it shifts very nicely when accelerating but only on downshift it freewheels, I'd consider the possibility that you have a sticking "Shift valve A". This is inside the valve body that can be removed with the trans in the car, but it is a messy job. If the trans has not been rebuilt/replaced in the 331,000 miles, a full rebuild or a used replacement is probably your best bet.

I know the older automatics applied a more aggressive AWD map when the shifter was moved into "1". Yours being sportshift (right?), I'm not sure, but it's possible. I believe the solenoid on > '06 models had reversed action from the earlier ones. This would mean that to engage the rear driveline you would need to apply 12V to the solenoid. A DPDT switch could be rigged up to switch between modes. In one position the switch would connect the solenoid to the computer (normal) and in the other position the solenoid would be connected to 12V and the computer would be connected to a dummy resistor to ground. The resistor would keep the TCU from throwing a code.

Those symptoms are commonly called a "slip-bang" shift. This occurs when the clutches "slip" more than the TCU expects, during a shift. After the TCU decides the shift should be over, it applies a lot more line pressure, then causing the "bang". If there are no codes, it's probably not the solenoids. If the fluid is old, it's probably too late to change it, and doing so will likely make it worse. Could be a clogged valve body, but unlikely. A rebuild with new frictions is the fix, but one of those miracle additives (friction modifier) might buy some time.

Brakes are a lot cheaper to repair than a transmission. You're also somewhat increasing wear on the engine. You're not likely to affect gas mileage one way or the other as the ECU will cut fuel during engine braking. Don't bother downshifting for stops and turns to save on brake wear. Downshifting on a long, steep, hill is a good idea to keep the brakes from overheating. And of course downshifting for the fun of it so you can punch it out of the turn, by all means.

The cold air from the evaporator then passes over the heater core, heating it if the heat is turned up. So now you have warm, dry air that is very willing to absorb moisture.

Yes, air conditioning de-humidifies the air. The moist, warm air passes over the evaporator coils inside the cabin. This cools the air rapidly, and the now-colder air can't hold the same moisture as when it was warmer. That's why there is a drain below your car for this water to drain out of. A side benefit is that a lot of pollen and pollutants also get pulled out of the air with water. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_conditioning#Humidity_control The air conditioning compressor will be engaged when defrost is selected for exactly this reason.

My GF has an '06 Tribeca. It's heavy (4300 lbs) and gets 17 MPG around town. Highway can get to 25 MPG, but it still requires 91 octane. The weight does give a comfortable, refined ride and the interior is really nice. After replacing the rear shocks it handles quite good and firm; it has giant tires too.

The tow package also includes a trans cooler. There is a Subaru retrofit kit that's around $170, it comes with instructions, not hard to do. I don't think anything else is different.

The ignitor is the power transistor for the coils, no need to reinvent that. Here is a typical schematic of the coil circuit. I don't think it will complain, there should be enough loading with your circuit to fool it. The OBD-I ECUs don't have any kind of misfire detection.

It would be fiddly and would affect the dwell, but it might work good enough. You'll want to make sure the op-amp you use has sufficient voltage range, like a LM324; tie the power rails to +12 and GND with a 0.1uF and 10uF cap for decoupling. It should have enough current drive for the ignitor, but be sure to put a limiting resistor on the output, say a 2.2k ohm. The resistor and capacitor you use forms a time constant, tau = R * C. A really rough calculation would be to set tau to half your delay required, and then pick a reasonable value for R like 10k ohms. A 10ms delay example: 10ms / 2 = 10k * C --> C = 0.005 / 10,000 --> C = 0.5 uF. Also Rg and Rf should be larger, like 2.2k. You'll need two of these circuits, one for each coilpack. The LM324 has 4 opamps per package, tie the unused inputs to GND.

10 degrees is the timing at idle. I can't think of a way to keep the timing at 10 degrees without ruining the fueling. You have EJ22E heads? How about pull the cam plug and stick on a Ford Escort distributor?

The stock EJ22E runs a lot of timing, 36 degrees @ 3600 RPM full load. The most timing advance I could get out of my frankenmotor was 24 degrees on 91 octane @ 3200 RPM full load. What that means is when I had a stock tune, the ECU would only pull 9 degrees and I would still have uncontrolled detonation because I would be 3 degrees too far advanced. And the way the ECU pulls timing, it only does it in the high load cells. That means at lower loads there would be way too much timing and a ton of pinging. Of course with nitrous it would only be used at full load. I'm not sure how much retard is needed for nitrous, but I suspect 9 degrees isn't enough. Also I suspect Matt is running an EJ25 block on an OBD-I EJ22E ECU, so there's probably too much timing even without nitrous.

Nitrous oxide. The ECU will only retard so much, around 9 degrees at maximum load.

I've seen this posted over and over again. Yet nobody can show the source of this information or provide any evidence. It's like some kind of legend from many years ago passed down from the Elders. But maybe today is my lucky day?

Yes all the evidence I've seen indicates that the actual timing of the spark firing is determined by the cam sensor. There are nitrous/boost retard boxes that will delay the signal, they're kind of expensive though. There are boxes that can go on the sensor or on the output as you're thinking. I know you don't want to reflash the computer, but I think in the long term full adjustment of fuel and timing is needed on any modified motor. I have hacked a EJ22E and a EJ20G ECU and can edit the tables in RomRaider. The hardware needed costs about $150, a daughterboard for the ECU and an EEPROM programmer. It'll take longer than Friday to get that running, though, but it's a good alternative if you have some brains but not a lot of money. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129946-frankenmotor-and-ecu-hacking/

This guy's scope plots: http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/SSM_params_analysis.html show that a slipped timing belt causes the ignition (and injector) timing to be off. This would mean that the cam sensor is used for ignition timing.

You're sure about that? Must be, otherwise you wouldn't have posted it...

Blah blah blah

Interesting idea. Reverse is possible because of a planetary gearset aft of the chain. Going forward this gearset is locked up and has no ratio effect. In reverse this unlocks allowing the sun gear to spin in reverse. What this means though is that reverse has a different gear ratio than forward. I don't know what this ratio is (maybe 150%) but it's something to consider - basically it means there is less torque multiplication available in reverse. Also I'm not sure if the planetary gearset is durable enough for continuous use. There are people running entire Audi transaxles in reverse. While a R&P does have drive/coast directions, the Subaru transaxle already "drives" off the "coast" side so I don't believe that's the issue. The R&P is only designed for the front drive wheels which will slip much easier than the rear wheels. If driving in reverse (or mounting the transaxle in reverse) the peak loads it sees will be much higher. In drag racing the front housing has been known to break on the 4EAT. This implies that the gears are strong enough, but the housing is not. That said, I think as long as the torque is kept below the point that will distort/crack the housing, it should have a long service life.

I happen to have a compressor for sale like yours. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139250-ea82t-parts/

It wasn't me with the cruise and VSS problem, I am using the original cruise computer and it all works fine. Your digidash needs modifying to work with the EJ tach signal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101240-were-is-the-tach-wire-digi-dash-ej-swap/?p=1074396 Fix your CEL, do not pass go, do not collect $200. It will tell you if your VSS is working or not. If it has a VSS code use a multimeter with a frequency input to test, they are pretty common nowadays. I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU will force no boost (fuel cut) if there are any codes that it deems might damage the engine under boost.