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If the ignitor or the ECU output is shorted it could blow the fuse. The coil is only designed to have power applied for just a moment to fire the spark plug. It power is applied continuously it will draw a lot of current. Try to unplug the ignitor or ECU and see if it blows.

The 4EAT does tend to have more problems with torque bind with the MPT clutch system. But if it does it going straight it's probably not the problem. Maybe there is still something wrong with your mount allowing the transmission to bump the body during acceleration. If you accelerate quickly in reverse do you hear a thump?

Oh, that certainly sounds like torque bind; this is a problem in the transmission where the AWD system binds up. Does it do it at all if you floor it from a stop while going straight? Torque bind will only occur when turning. What kind of transmission do you have?

Sounds to me like a problem with the charcoal canister, or the plumbing. Try this: disconnect the fuel tank vent line. It's located on the driver's side next to the two fuel lines going to the intake manifold. The vent line is the smaller of the three. Just leave the side from the body (the tank) free, and put some kind of cap on the metal tube from the manifold. If this works, you should fix the real problem, which is likely a clogged canister. Leaving this vent open is very bad for air pollution.

So the new tires fixed the vibration problem? What is the problem now, the vibration is back? If the trans mount broke, I'd thoroughly inspect the tail housing on the trans is to make sure it's not damaged too.

I think RB270 is similar to the 2002 WRX STi here in the states. I am using stock regular WRX bypass valve on my EJ20G at 19.4 PSI, but I did need to modify it to hold more pressure. The STi one is designed to hold more pressure. This valve must be aftermarket though? The STi here has a bypass valve and not a dump valve. I know most aftermarket valves are adjustable so you could always get a different one. But really I don't recommend a dump valve at all as it will reduce your performance unless the car is really tuned for it. They do sound cool though!

The Trans-X adds more friction modifiers too, and these break down. My guess is that's why it needs replacement over time, and that the delayed engagement this product fixes is a friction problem and not necessarily a seal problem. I don't think the seal swell agents break down, and I don't think they work fast enough in 5 minutes to swell the leaking seals. It could be that the viscosity of the Trans-x slows the fluid from leaking past the seals, but it doesn't seem like it could change the viscosity that much because of the ratio. However I think delayed engagement could be caused by a number of things and that there's no "silver bullet" that will fix all trannys with this problem. Another friction modifier is the Lubegard black. I've heard people put this in to firm up their shifts.

A dump valve will cause your car to waste gas and run rich between shifts, but you probably know this. Is there an adjustment on this valve, maybe it is too tight? Too tight will cause compressor surge and damage the turbo. Too loose and it will bleed boost, losing power and running rich.

It would be a ton of work to turbo a N/A motor for not a lot of gain. If you're looking for a project, sure! But for a few grand you can get a JDM turbo motor with harness, ECU, etc.

Yes, good point, it will come apart deep inside the tranny!

Yeah. 1) drain the fluid 2) drop the pan 3) replace the filter (it's cheap and includes a gasket) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9ULU8 4) disconnect the outlet hose at the cooler and stick it in a bucket, the outlet is the one that comes off the front of the trans 5) dump 5 qts down the dipstick 6) start the motor while watching the fluid come out 7) stop the motor when the fluid comes out clean, if it stops coming out before coming clean go back to step 5 (you shouldn't have to) 8) reconnect the hose and put 3 qts down the dipstick. 9) start the car and check the level, it takes about 10 qts total You should also adjust the brake band for 2nd gear. It's not that hard but it is in a tricky spot. 1) support the rear of the trans with a jack 2) remove the bolts attaching the crossmember to the car 3) lower the rear of the trans a bit 4) loosen the locknut on the band adjustment (17mm wrench), it's near the starter on top of the trans but a bit further back 5) tighten the band adjustment until it's just snug (8mm wrench), making sure the locknut is not bottoming out 6) loosen the band adjustment 1.5 turns 7) while holding the band adjuster with a wrench to keep from turning tighten the locknut 8) raise the trans and put the bolts back in This is from memory but should be close enough.

So the first problem is that the tires were coming apart on the highway? And then the driveline failed? (How did it fail, did the joint break?) It's not a bad idea to check the rear diff, especially after having a failed driveline. With the tires in the air it's easy to spin the driveline flange by hand and feel if the bearings are grunchy, and it shouldn't have any play in it. The CV joints going to the wheels do have some play normally. Also check the backlash, the flange should turn just a tiny bit before you see the inner CV joints move. I honestly can't see how the driveline or rear diff could cause the rear tires to come apart. I would figure the tires were bad (internal core separation), maybe the wheels are bent, or remotely the bearings/hub could cause it. Did you run over anything that could have caused the tires to fail?

I have seen bad electrolytic capacitors inside the TCU cause problems like this. That would certainly be heat related. Could be a bad solder joint too.

Why do you think the old ones failed? Bad vibrations? A rear tire out of balance will feel similar.

I have not changed the TXV as I don't use R134a, I use ES-12a. I imagine a TXV from a newer car would fit but I'm not sure. POE aka Ester oil is okay, but it has downsides. It doesn't lubricate as well as PAG or mineral oil. The upside is that POE is compatible with any refrigerant.

Why did you remove and reinstall your injectors? Did you have them cleaned or something?

When you put those replacement u-joints in, make sure there is enough room for the clip inside the yoke. I touch the back of where the clip sits with a grinder, that way the clip sits flat. The part number at Autozone is 2-0430DL.

Did you unplug your MAF and forget to plug it back in?

I'm not trying to turn this into a "point / counterpoint" argument, just pointing out other options. At first you talked about these intensive algorithms. I'm not sure if you didn't initially realize that the Due can't do floating point and are overly defensive, or if you don't plan to emphasize those features, or you planned to do them in fixed point all along. Having a DSP "module" separate from the micro is adding a ton of complexity for nothing. The Wandboard is the other end of the spectrum! They're really cool, I even own one. But this is the wrong direction, first the peripherals are all wrong for the IO an ECU needs, second it's total overkill; you need to find something in the middle. If I had to guess I'd say that you're shy about designing the hardware and trying to find some off the shelf board you can make work. Well you're just gonna have to dig in. The other parts an ECU needs to interface to all the engine sensors, injectors, solenoids, etc. is going to be an order of magnitude more difficult than designing the support hardware for a micro. Perhaps though it seems you've already made up your mind? If so I'll let you carry on unencumbered...

Did you check all the o-rings? If just one cylinder is fouled it will still idle, just lumpy. It should only take a minute or so for it to clear up, if the problem is indeed fixed.

Once you're deep enough into the hardware design I don't see any reason for using an Arduino form factor; none have an FPU either so that makes fancy algorithms quite difficult with fixed-point math. There are lots of options out there for micros; the Cortex M4F comes to mind. http://www.nxp.com/products/microcontrollers/cortex_m4/series/LPC4300.html I say the Megasquirt hardware is so clunky, but there is the MS3 Pro. It's not open-source and $1200 though... And still to add things like WBo2 you need to have external hardware. Meh. Saab has used ion sensing technology for like 20 years. It's still in use today but certainly not the norm, I wonder why not many people use it? Seems like interesting technology.

Sounds like you tore the lower o-ring on one/more injectors; especially if you re-used the old o-rings, sometimes they swell a bit and don't go back in. This will allow fuel to dump into the intake and cylinders. I always put a bit of lube on the o-rings before installing them. If it were me I'd fix that broken screw, but it should seal fine with just one.

I shortened the oil pan on the EJ25 in my Vanagon by about 1.5" and put 1/8" steel plate on the bottom. There is also Smallcar, Outfront, Kennedy, Rocky Mountain Westy, and Burley Motorsports who make shortened pans, with varying capacities.

That exhaust is sick, I'm jealous. You'll lose the boxer rumble though. How much if I may ask was your JDM engine/tranny/ECU? When I opened up my JDM ECU I discovered it was already chipped; well actually I discovered it by the crazy detonation! Even the stock maps had way too much timing for the 91 pump gas here. Yours is a 3 plug ECU, yeah? You'll need an LSD rear diff for sure. Looks like you're off to a great start!

I recently swapped in an EJ bellhousing along with 4.11 R&P, valve body mods, etc. My EA82T torque converter seemed to have problems but it was not conclusive; I am running about 300 HP though so it's not surprising. The old torque converter was better performing than the WRX one, probably has something to do with the smaller diameter. One thing that's nice is it's easy to redrill the flex plate. The EJ rear mount puts it a bit higher, and touched the tunnel in my '88. Nothing a small sledge couldn't take care of, but something to keep in mind if you use a whole EJ tranny.