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I found a set of 14x6 chrome 6 lug wheels locally for a decent price. These came off a Nissan Pickup so they would need to be redrilled. I would probably run 185/70R14 tires on these wheels. Not looking to lift the car. So how do you think chrome wheels would look on a tan 87" GL wagon? Would the back spacing be close to factory Subaru 13s?

Thanks for all the info and suggestions. Some of those I was already planning on.

Not sure how many people are near Kalispell, MT but found this on CL. I have no want or even the place to do a swap right now so just passing the info on. http://kalispell.craigslist.org/pts/5245203963.html

Well I'm pretty sure I am not sucking it dry since it is above E. I hope it's not off that much. I had a truck once that 1/3 tank was empty. Found that out the hard way.... I will have to keep that in mind for ATF. Thanks for the info. Did you notice any difference in MPG with the Weber swap? Do you have your Subi modified or stock? Perhaps we could meet up for some exploring if you know any good trails. I just recently moved up here from AZ.

Thanks for the info. Yes it will definitely be getting a nice set of spark plugs (prob. NGK), wires and cap and rotor wouldn't hurt. I have heard great things about those multi spark units on Jeeps. I'll have to check into it for the Subi. Yeah I am not interested in a SPFI swap as you said chasing down the computer and all the sensors is more grief than it's worth in my opinion. Plus the Weber is much more simple, just don't know how much of a benefit you get and if there is any cost to cold weather (0 and below) starting vs factory. I talked to a mechanic in the area about machining the heads and porting. He had a similar response as I had expected. Not worth the risk of pinging and little to no noticeable performance gain on the porting (w/o tons of other work at least). Better to keep a nice running reliable engine as is and enjoy it for a long time. Side question. What size gas tank do these GL wagons have? I read online they are 15.9 gal. but mine takes 12-12.5 gal when just above E. Do I really have 3 gallons left? If so is it a usable 3 gals or do these have a bad pickup where you can never use the bottom of the tank?

It is a carb, so I know that a Weber swap is popular. However I don't know which is better for a cold Montana winter. The factory carb or if a water choke Weber works just as well? Yes I am familiar with the tire mods. I come from the Jeep and Toyota 4x4s. I've done lifts, gear changes and bigger tires (nothing extreme). I am just looking to keep this as an economical car that has the foul weather muddy forest road benefits. I have one family member recommending that I have the heads shaved .02 to up the compression a little. Not sure if this is done often on these motors? Not looking to get to spendy on mods. Will probably do some minor clean up of the valve ports and a 1 3/4" exhaust from cat back and deciding on the Weber still. One thing I know I don't like about them is their height and the lack of a decent air filter set up. Water pump would be a good idea. Thanks.

I am also looking for a set of 14" wheels that will work (made to work) for it. I have come across a set of Mazda truck 14" 6x5.5 wheels that look like they might work. I was thinking of running 185/75R14 tires. Will these fit without rubbing (no lift and I'm not going to cut or hammer a pristine wagon)? Or should I stick with 185/70R14 when I find a set of wheels?

I have owned my 87' 4WD wagon with 119,000 miles for about a month now and I am planning to make some needed repairs and upgrades next week to make sure it lasts for years to come. To start it leaks oil when driving, which blows on the exhaust and fumigates the town. Also it seems to hit a wall at 55mph. You have to keep it floored in 4th for about 2 miles to get to 65mph. The plan is to reseal the entire motor... head gaskets, valve covers, cam seals and the rear of the motor. Along with a new oil pump, timing belts and a carb tune up. I am tempted to put new cams in it for some extra GO while it's open but I can not find any. Is there anything else I should address while it's out of the car and being pulled apart? It is often stiff to get into 1st gear but other wise it shifts easy and does not slip. Do you think this could be the clutch or should I replace it while the motor is out? Thanks for any feed back and ideas.

That is actually why I bought the GL. I have a 98' Jeep Cherokee that I have about $5000 in upgrades on over the past couple of years. Electrical gremlins have been popping up over the last year and while on the trailer from AZ to MT during my recent move the wiring harness fried. So now I have an expensive paper weight sitting out front until I decide what to do with it. Thinking of buying an older Cherokee with a 5 spd and swapping my stuff over to it. Either way I hope this Subaru holds up for me. It's to nice and clean a car to let sit and rot. But if the motor heads south that might be what happens. I am flat broke after the move and now unable to find work. Unemployed for the last 5 months.

Yes it is the EA82. I will have to look into the engine seal additives. I do know that acetone swells many rubber gaskets. I have used it a few times when I can't find a replacement to something I am working on. But I have never poured it in an engine. A secondary oil gauge is not a bad idea. I have read about the oil pressure being low at idle, but this is while driving down the road at 45mph in 4th (for example). I ended up driving 30 miles to get home reading 0 yesterday. I pulled over once it happened to check the motor. Had oil and when started sounded fine. So I took it easy the whole way home. It popped up to 50 psi once and then dropped again quickly. My senses tell me the engine is getting oil, but that stupid gauge is making me paranoid! I am used to running 15w40 and 20w50 down in warm Phoenix, AZ for decades. I was wondering about doing an oil change to a heavier weight to see if that slows the leaks. But winter is coming and I don't know how well these motors crank with 20w50 when it's 0 F outside. Good/Bad idea?

I recently bought an 87' GL Wagon with 118,000 miles that appears to be in excellent condition accept it leaks oil. In the last 140 miles since I bought it I have seen just how bad. It has lubricated the exhaust and fumigated the car and neighborhood with 1/2 qt so far. It looks like it is leaking from the head gaskets with a lesser amount coming from the valve covers and left cam shaft seal. How serious a problem do you think this is other than just carrying extra oil to top it off? I just moved and I have had 2 cars die on me completely. So I am to broke to pull the motor and go through it. Also the oil pressure gauge keeps going from good pressure to 0 for long periods of time. However the motor does not run hot, continues to run smooth and quiet and by the constant oil loss I figure it still has pressure to push it out. So I replaced the oil pressure switch (sensor) to no change. Any ideas on if it's the gauge or a bad connection? Thanks