subynut

The circled one is the EGR port. Remove the screw and attach the hose from that to the EGR.

Whoo Hoo! Now, what to take? The XT6 or the PandaWagon? The PandaWagon will be able to handle the 117* heat of the desert floor better than the XT6. But the XT6 missed the Route 66 trip, so, it wouldn't be fair to take the PandaWagon again. Hmmm...

Yes, those will lower the front.

Not to mention the ECU getting lost and causing your mileage to drop by 10 or 15 mpgs in town, and the clouds of smoke that will be pouring out the tail pipe at WOT. All that piping is there to keep it running at it's best. Subaru engines have very high harmonics that wreak havoc on the ECU when you change the intake. So, unless you plan on building a high RPM monster that is garbage to drive in town, leave it as is. Your car will be much happier and so will your wallet.

The fronts you can use 2WD XT struts. The rears are a little more involved. There's two options: coilovers or ground control springs. There's many different ways to do it. Also check out http://subaruxt.com/forum/ and read up what they have done to lower theirs.

Ok, I see. Kanurys, when you plumbed your ditsy and EGR, you used both front ports on the Weber - the left to the ditsy and the right to the EGR, correct? Then you tee'd the line for the ditsy and sent that split to the thermo-vacuum switch. The same goes for the EGR. Then the third port on the switch you sent to the air cleaner, yes? If so, which ports on the thermo-vacuum switch went where?

OK, I'm a little confused. Which ditsys are we talking about? I thought the EA82s just had a 1 port VAC advance that advanced the timing during mid throttle and also to help with initial tip-in. At least that is what I have read and my own observations with the timing light and bliping the throttle.

Cylinder 1 is the passenger front spark plug. OEM is 8* BTDC, the weber could use more advance around 12*. You can go more depending on your air temps, elevation, and what fuel grade you want to use. I have run upwards of 20* (SPFI timing) a few times, but that needs premium to really use the extra power and it can be difficult to start.

Or live in the desert where the air temps are in the 90-115* range. I would use it, if it has an internal thermostat.

Yeah, I've been through highway 95 many a time going to the West Coast Subaru Shows. Miles of nothing except for a car every once and a while.

man on the moon, Which highway is that in Nevada? It looks familiar.

The last EA81T cooler I saw was a oil to air cooler, like an aux tranny cooler. 1982gl4, do you have a pic or two of your oil cooler? We're curious....

^^^ Hey, my first Subaru had one of those. Kinda miss the 80's radio....

Does a N/A EA81 get that toasty in the summer? I've had them on my EA82s in the past to help the engine stay a little cooler during the 110* summer heat, but I wouldn't have thought the N/A EA81's needed them. Unless your running a hotter cam and SPFI. Then, I could see the need..

Is that what happends when you mix Dr. Frankenstein with The Incredible Hulk?

This is why I love this thread! Nice historic school Soobs, 'Uber!

Tucson RallyX II by subynut, on Flickr Take THAT, you evil cone!

Yes, it's tweaked. It was that way before I bought it - The previous owner ran into a Buick. I've been on the lookout for another bumper that I can swap skins with. The wrecking yards down here have bumpers that are so tweaked it makes mine look straight. One of the many little things that need replacement.

Went rallyX'n today: RallyX by subynut, on Flickr

Yeah, the EJ18 has a small jump in power, but an increase in reliability and efficiency. So, he won't have to work on the engine as often and get better mileage to boot!

Yeah, is it not like 3% or 4% drop in air density per 1000 ft? That adds up for those of us that live in the 4000-8000 ft elevation. That's the beauty of a light car. The 2WD sedans are the lightest of the group and with no rear drive train, there's less losses that eat away at the MPGs.

The overall process of pulling out the axle and reinstalling it is really not complicated at all. Pull the knuckle out of the lower ball joint, pull the axle off the tranny, and pull the axle out of the knuckle. Installation is reverse. The hardest part is getting the axle out of the knuckle. Sometimes they can get really stuck and you sit there beating on it with a big 'ol fat hammer. The cone washer can also get stuck and be a pain to get loose too. So yes, stupid easy.

I'm not sure how this happened, but Sunday, both front outer CV boots failed within like, a mile of one another. Pulled them out and had them rebooted, and re-installed them. All set for Saturday's Tucson RallyCross II!

Yeah, I have done that a few times too. This is what I did to help prevent that: I moved the hose to the vac port next to the PCV valve, and ran the hose straight back along the pitching stopper, then followed the brake line over to the HVAC canister. Keeps it out of the way and far less likely to get knocked off while working in the engine bay. The white smoke could be oil getting sucked in through the PCV system during a long sweeping turn. If it didn't smell like burning coolant, then, I'm not sure what else it could be. Worst case, maybe Ned is begining to suffer from EJ envy. I've got one Suby suffering from it.

Nice find! That thing is really clean and I love the Digi-Dash and the interior!