subynut

Welcome to the board! Personally, I have found it takes two flushes to get the tranny shifting smoothly again (at least for a Subaru 5 speed). Good news, it teaches you rev matching. I run Mobile 1 75-90 in my trannies, but Redline is also an excellent choice.

Welcome to the board!

Welcome back to Subaru land!

Yeah, I did the same when I fixed the steering leak on the PandaWagon. ATF has such a wonderful smell.

Lookin' awesome!

Ok, looks like things are clear now. I will be sticking with the RX bar for now and see how it handles on the RallyX. Here's a few pics with it on the ramps: IMG_8811 by subynut, on Flickr IMG_8816 by subynut, on Flickr Much better: IMG_8808 by subynut, on Flickr Still close, but at least it's not resting on the pipe any more. IMG_8813 by subynut, on Flickr

Replaced a steering boot on the PandaWagon and then gave it a bath. Also replaced the ignition switch on the XT6 while diagnosing my intermittent starting issue. Worked great for about 7 starts and it back to being stupid again. I may try the relay trick to see if it is a wiring issue.

My, that's one custom off-road Suby! Is there anything left that's still Subaru under the hood?

Replaced the kinked power steering line and swapped the XT6 front sway bar for an RX front sway bar on the PandaWagon. Having front tire lift off while diving through the corners. Seems to have helped out the stability of the front some. Will see come next RallyX.

I've used the metric to US adaptors from SunPro to plumb in aftermarket analog pressure gauges. I used the port for the idiot light (small port) on the oil pump.

Ok, I fixed it. I ended up just bending the line out of the sway bar's way. Here's a few before pics I took with the front on jackstands: IMG_8788 by subynut, on Flickr IMG_8801 by subynut, on Flickr IMG_8804 by subynut, on Flickr Once I get the car on ramps, I'll take some more pics to show where the bar sits with the suspension loaded. I also switched to the RX front bar to help reduce the lifting of the inside front tire while diving through corners. The front of the car feels better planted now.

Ok thanks.

The PandaWagon with it's EJ25 has a new EA82 radiator with two 10" electric pusher fans driven by the EJ ECU via relays. I have had no problems with the engine getting hot while traveling through the desert in the middle of summer: Outside temp: Crickey! It's hot in Vegas! by subynut, on Flickr Engine temps (top is oil, bottom is coolant): Cool a cucumber by subynut, on Flickr My EA82s with a new two row radiator would be sitting between 225 and 230 in that kind of temp. The EJ's run MUCH cooler. It was in the lower 90's at SubieFest and even after 3 consecutive AutoX runs, the temps were not even close to those during the drive to WCSS through the Arizona/Nevada desert. As long as the radiator is in good shape, you should have no problems with overheating.

Well, I finally had a chance to put the car up on jack stands last night. Yes, the sway bar does make contact with the power steering line. In fact, it had to have been doing so since I installed the XT6 bar. (Why it did not make any clunking noises is beyond me.) Thankfully, I had a spare steering rack so I was able to replace the kinked line. It still made contact with the sway bar, there was no clearance whatsoever. So I smacked the pipe enough so there's about a penny's distance between the sway bar and the pipe. I do not have any pics yet, but I will do so when I return home.

Looks good! I want to replace the headliner in the PandaWagon, how difficult was it to pull the plastic pieces without breaking them?

The steering rack is a reman for a wagon. So, that might take it out of the equation. Just finished my sister's suby and now I'm off to look into the PandaWagon.

That's looking really good!

I compared the install between the PandaWagon and the XT6 and they are installed the same. I also compared the brackets that attach the bar to the control arms between the EA82 and ER27 and they are the same length. I'll get it up on the ramps tomorrow, take a few pics, and we'll go from there. Thanks

Well, the PandaWagon has developed a PS leak. Looks like the XT6 sway bar on the front was making contact with one of the pipes on the steering rack and has kinked the pipe. I know the steering rack was replaced not long before I bought it, but I don't know if it was for a wagon or an XT. I also noticed the bar will not sit square in there - it's off to the right a bit and it will not sit centered. Has anyone else ran into a clearance issue with the XT6 sway bar up front? For the time being, I will be putting the RX sway bar in there till I can find out why the XT6 bar sits so close to that power steering line.

They just don't make cars with personality like that anymore.

Yes, I did try capn_r's diodes, but it made no difference. I talked to the previous owner and he said that it didn't work before he did the EJ22 swap - said it would suddenly just take off on it's own. So, maybe it is flakey. Strange the EA tach has no problem with the EJ signal, but the dealer installed CC does. Maybe the CC is looking for the spike of the coil firing whereas the EJ ECU is just sending a simple square wave. That may be the difference. Hmm...

Yeah, that switch arrangement had my head spinning for a while. Didn't help the FSMs don't have a whole lot of explanation as to how the whole system operated.

Welcome! The EA82 series can last for hundreds of thousands of miles, given they are taken care of. However, it is 20 years old and they do begin to develop silly quirks at this age. First, find out what kind of maintenance has been done. If the maintenance records are lacking, then I assume it will need a timing kit (it won't harm the engine if the belt lets go, but why get stranded?), coolant hoses and water pump with an OEM thermostat, a minimum of a radiator flush (they run quite warm normally, which is great during the winter, not so much during the summer). At 250K miles, and depending on how often the coolant was replaced, there is a chance the heater core may let go before 300K miles. Also check the underside from stem to stern looking for rust since you are in snow country. Of course, there's the regular tune-up stuff and the CV axle boots, but that's part of owning any car. I can be a bit over the top when it comes to maintenance, but, I live in the high desert so I push the limits of the car just by driving down the highway. I've tried the wait till it breaks game and it always manages to break 90+ miles from home. As long as the cooling system is in good shape, t-belts replaced every 60K miles, and don't treat it as a race car, it will go for miles on end! They're fun little cars with the most personality I have ever seen in a car and that is why I love them.

Welcome to the board and nice suby!