subynut

My cars don't make it home when I drive with anger.

There are differences in both wiring and ECU: AT or MT? get the harness from as close to your year as possible. 87 and older are different from 88 I think they changed it again sometime after 90, but I am not completely sure. If there is a difference, GD would know.

Welcome to the board! I had the same year XT6: White, automatic with FT4WD - neatest car I ever owned. If you need more specific XT/XT6 info, hop on http://www.subaruxt.com/forum there's a bucket load of info there on the XT/XT6.

Yes, but I have yet to find one. I have checked with the five auto parts stores we have in town and they all have the same single row radiator listed for both the N/A and turbo'd cars. The reason: "It's more efficient, they work better than the OEM two row radiators." Same goes for EA82 heater cores, can't get those either. They just don't exist in the aftermarket world.

Do you have any issues with your EA82s getting too hot running up there while climbing long grades? Here in the desert, the summer air temps can reach up to 110*. While climbing a hill at WOT at 5000 rpms in third gear, my old EA82s would get quite hot. I found that if I slowed down to 4000 rpms in third, the engine's rise in temp was slow enough that I usually would reach the top before it got too hot - I call 225* too hot for the EA82 after cooking the engine. Whereas with the EJ25, I can climb that same hill in 5th at the speed limit and the cooling fans never turn on. But with 60 more hp, I better be able to hold the speed limit.

zukiru, What time frame mustang did you get those coilovers off of and is the strut EA82? I want to drop the rear of the PandaWagon, but I am having a difficult time finding a good set of coilovers that won't feel like blown air struts. The "artist formally known as Ginger" looks nice!

If that's with a EA82, could a ODBII EJ18 reach the 50 mpg mark?

My two 87's have 6.5" in the rear doors and 5.somethings in the front doors both run Pioneer speakers. I run a Phoenix Gold 8" in my blue wagon and it gives it the missing thump, but it's no door rattler. Whereas the PandaWagon has a MTX 12" sub and it has quite a thump. I used one of the cubby holes to mount the sub's amp - out of the way but easy to get to. I've always had Pioneer head units - been very good to me.

Personally, I think the 3.7 ratio'd EA trannies are not that great a tranny. The shift points are wrong for a N/A monster such as my EJ25. But, that's what I had when I put the car together. I'd really like the part-time 4WD ratios with AWD, but I need a few parts to do that. I could run in 4th on the freeway, but it's hard enough holding a consistent speed in 5th, let alone 4th. While cruising at 75, my vacuum gauge sits at about 12 inches and the air/fuel gauge (cheap sunpro) is doing it's normal bouncing dance between lean and the high side of ideal. If I cruise at 4000 rpms (about 87 corrected mph), it sits on the high side of ideal and just hangs out there. That's when my mileage takes it's dive. 4th gear at 75 mph will put me over that 4000 rpm point and I don't think my mileage will improve, but I'll give it a shot next time I'm on the interstate. My mileage should become more consistent once I get the cruise control working. With all the extra available torque, it is very hard to hold a consistent speed. Especially the farther up the power band I go. Yes, number of miles over number of gallons. I'm about 7% off, my mileage numbers are the corrected numbers. I usually fill up, on average, at a quarter of a tank. On the larger wheels idea, I was actually thinking the other way around. The taller tires would be a hindrance in town because of the taller final drive would keep the rpms lower in the power band too long plus the extra rotating mass of the larger wheels and tires. Whereas cruising out on the highway, you don't have the acceleration issue, but the taller tires will lower the rpms at a given speed and as long as the engine is in the power band, it should get best mileage. I kinda see it as the faster the engine has to turn, the more fuel the engine is drinking, the less mileage. However, if the rpms drop too low, the engine begins to lug and the more throttle is needed which makes the ECU richen up the mixure and the mileage goes to pot. From driving both EA and EJ powered cars, they both like to hang out in the 3000-4000 rpm range. I understand that these engines are rev happy little boxers, but I don't see why we need to cruise with the engines outside the power band way up in the 4500+ rpm range. If the engine can maintain 75 mph at 3500 rpms, I don't see why it needs to be higher. Climb a hill? Sure, 4000-4500 rpms is best, isn't that why Subaru chose the ratios they did?

True, but, you still run the engine in the same RPM range, no? I found the EA82 in my first car (carbed then SPFI'd), was happiest between 3000-4000 RPMs. Which, from what I have read, is in the area between peak torque and peak HP. Which happens to be roughly where the EJ series' power band is, just more torque. As I have noticed with the EJ25D - it likes to cruise at about 4000 RPMs. I thought for best fuel economy, you want to keep the RPMS near peak torque, not peek HP. Or are my eyes in backwards? I do agree, though, that the EJ series are far more efficient than the EA series. Kinda makes you wonder what a fresh EJ18 in a 2WD XT would get as far as highway mileage goes.

Ok, does that mean the close ratio 5 speed in the turbo EA2s should get better mileage? And, if that is true, why does the PandaWagon get 34 MPG at 55 mph, 28 MPG at 75 mph, 25 MPG at 80 mph, and 20 MPG at 90 mph? (EJ25, FT4WD turbo 5 speed, 205-55R16 tires)

When I initially saw that first pic, I thought: ruh ruh, suby on it's side. But no, it was an anchor point. That's neat!

It's not a matter of if an EA82 can hit 200hp, it's how long will it last. If you increase the boost, a decent intercooler, custom cams, and good EM you can hit 200. However, do you really want to rebuild the engine every oil change? The EA82 really is happiest in stock N/A form; SPFI, from what I have gathered on the board. Any more power than that, and you start cutting deeply into the reliability of the engine. This is a 25+ year old engine design, and from a performance perspective, a poor design at best. However, Subaru learned their lesson and released the EJ series.

That's neat, I have wanted to do something similar in the PandaWagon. Do you have any pics of the installation?

I like that color scheme - black on top and bottom with red in the middle. Adds to the sportiness of the XT6. Pulled the heater core out of my blue wagon to have it fixed, but the radiator shop said the core was rotting away; so, I ordered a new one.

You can never have enough pics of Subarus.

First one: '86 GL Wagon, Carbed EA82, D/R 4WD - bought it with 120K, sold it with 220K 2nd: '88 XT6 Auto FT4WD - Way too much fun, sold it cause I needed a truck. 3rd: '02 Legacy Outback - Rescued from the evil crusher, replaced engine, sold to my sister. (no pics) 4th: '87 GL wagon SPFI EA82, D/R 4WD 5th: '87 GL Wagon - EJ and 5-Lug swaped

Drove the PandaWagon to SubieFest, played on the autocross :burnout:, drove home. Now I need to do a tire rotation.

Same here. I may not have the rust issues that the east coast has, but the interiors of my vehicles are beat on something fierce down here in the high desert. But, that's what the tinted windows, window shades, and carports are for.

Ran the blue wagon through the car wash on my way to the parts store. Changed the oil and retrofitted the EJ25 air box in the PandaWagon so it's ready for the trip to SubieFest. I am having issues, while going around corners fast, where the inside front tire lifts off the ground. Not very good traction that way. :-\ Debating whether to swap the XT6 front anti-roll bar for the RX anti-roll bar till I can get a set of brackets for the rear or have a set of custom brackets made so I can run the XT6 bar in the back. The brackets I have for the rear XT6 bar are so thin that they pull out of the mounts on the trailing arms.

Cotton covered in oil which at a minimum messes with the MAF while at the same time letting in more dirt. The OEM filter is capable of moving over 400 CFM of air - far more air than any EA, ER, or non-turbo EJ will ever need. Personally, if I was to put a cone filter on, I would get one of the non-oiled filters with the pre-filter. That way it does not mess with the MAF while adding extra available air for the cam and exhaust upgrades. I'm currently working on removing the pig rich points on the PandaWagon, I get them at full throttle in the upper power band and I think it has to do with the cobbled together intake I have on it. My mileage also drops by an average of 5 MPG when I go from 75MPH to 80MPH, but that's when I noticed the AFR guage sitting just in the rich area. If I punch it at that RPM (~4K) I leave in a cloud of soot. Would be fine if it was a diesel or turbocharged, but this is a N/A gas, not a good sign. All because the intake does not match the engine and ECU tune. The cone filter I currently am using (the next size up from the one you have), is full in about 7000 miles, I last cleaned it right after I returned from WCSS and the muddy water that flowed out of it was insane! Then I had to clean the MAF and the entire intake tubing from all the dust the filter missed. Wasn't too impressed with that filter, I will be going back to a paper panel filter as soon as I figure out my air box puzzle.

Sure, move to the southwest and replace rotting frame rails and moldy carpets with dry rotted anything plastic, rubber, and electrical, sun burned paint, and sun disintegrated cloth with a side of sandblasted windscreens! And to keep things on topic: fixed the MAP/BARO code by reattaching the vacuum line to the evap system on my parents 97 Outback.

I'm guessing you are running stock carbed? That size is probably good if it's straight pipe from the cat to the bumper. It's when you add a weber or convert to SPFI that 2" is a better size flow wise. I ran 2 1/4" straight pipe from the cat on, it was obnoxiously loud outside of the car and the drone was bearable inside the car at cruising speeds. I finally added a turbo muffler which quieted down the drone while keeping good exhaust flow. I lost some low end torque with the 2 1/4" pipe but gained some power over 3500 rpm which was great for flying down the freeway at 70+. If I were to do it again, I would go 2" which would put the peek power closer to the rpm range I normally drive in.

Noticed my blue wagon was a bit sloppy on the road. So I checked the tire pressures: LF: 25, RF: 30, LR: 20, RR: 23 cold. ! So, I brought the cold pressures up to 35 on the front and 32 in the rear. That should help my stability and mileage but will cut a little in the ride quality department, but a good compromise in my book. Our average air temp highs have dropped from 90 to 73 - makes a difference on tire pressures.