subynut

When I did the EJ conversion on my carbed 86, the feed lines from the tank were smaller on the carb pump than the fuel injected pumps. I just picked up some adaptors to go from the smaller lines from the tank to the FI pump. I did the same thing for the return line.

Cats usually go bad from too rich of a mixture and they get too hot (Usually a sure sign is rotten eggs smell.) and melt down the catalyst grid in them causing a blockage which makes the exhaust accellerate and heat up more which makes it hotter and volia! Blocked cat. When it goes you'll get a whisle under full throttle and when it fully plugs, the intake noise goes WAY up. But by then, the power will be so low, it takes 2 miles just to get to 55! Assuming the engine has been properly tuned up, here are a few experiments to try: Feel the exhaust pulses coming out of the tail pipe: does it have a slight pulse to it or is there practically nothing coming out? Disconnect each exhaust pice and see how it drives. Start with the mufler section: no difference except loud? Good, move on to the center section and go for a test drive, still no difference? Then the front cat/y-pipe is the problem. Remember, you will get some performance boost since there is less piping for the exhaust to work through, however, you should mainly just have more noise. I've also read that if you leave the exhaust plugged for too long it tends to burn exhaust valves.

If the cat is in good shape, you will not notice it is there. I have left the first cat in place on all my EJ swaps - no reason to add more work. If it's good, leave it; unless you drive near redline more than 90% of the miles on the road, then I could see a tuned exhaust; but who drives race cars on the street?

That's very interesting....did they do true duals or was there a cross pipe?

True, but also at the cost of handling and major fabrication of the front end to relocate the radiator - that's one LONG engine. I could go to a EZ30D, but I am limited to how much power I can generate since the heads have a single exhaust port for each side. If I had the funding, I'd go EZ30R, but not on my salary. So, I will stick with the 2.5. Besides, like you said, the torque out of that EG33 would rip my poor wagon in two!

TheLoyale: The reason for the 2.5 instead of the 2.2 is more displacement and 10:1 compression = more torque! Since I'm sticking to a N/A build, I need all the displacement I can get. Oh, and prolly no more than 2" pipes if I go true duals, anything larger and I will be working against the pipes instead of with them. CHIM: That's awesome! Love the lifted ea81 bodies. Good looking roo!

Hi guys, I drove my Dad's 97 Outback (EJ25, 5sp manual, all stock, 207K on the clock) today and boy was that an experience! I got the misfire on just cyl 3 today, however, dad has been complaining that it usually complains about 3 and 4 on every drive. Plugs are Subaru new, same with the wires. Now onto the interesting drive to work today: When I fired it up, all seemed normal: running at about 1700 till I touched the throttle then every time I pushed the clutch in it would climb to 3k then slowly work it's way back to about 1000. Once it warmed up, the idle was slightly rough at ~650. It bucks (sometimes quite violently) with the throttle just off the idle switch whether it's warmed up or not. While driving in the 2-3k rpm range at light throttle (trying to keep it from bucking), the check engine light was blinking away at me. Now, during that time it was blinking, it felt fine - did not feel any hesitation whatsoever. But the computer thought there was something wrong. I checked the codes when I arrived at work and it had 1 count of a misfire on cyl 3. A little history: The car has always had a slight hesitation right off idle - annoying, but "within reason". Car gets excellent mileage: 25 all city, 30 out on the highway, ~27 mixed. The head gaskets blew and made a royal mess about 20K miles ago and we swapped the engine. Ever since I pulled that thing, we have have had the misfire on 3 and 4. Although, it was very rare and usually happened under very harsh driving or very long freeway runs back then. Now, if your in the 2-3K rpm at part throttle, that CEL will blink and blink and blink. When you check the codes there is usually one count of a misfire on 3 and 4. Never 1 or 2. The CEL will stop blinking if you go to WOT and sometimes will go out if you stay on the floor long enough. - that don't make any sense! I have checked connections, traced wiring thinking I pulled something during the swap, I have checked for vacuum leaks, checked the impedance of the coil pack: within spec - may try swapping it with another I have laying around to see if anything changes, Cleaned the MAF - had my mechanic check it and he said it was within spec. O2 sensors are no older than 5k miles and from Subaru. I talked to the techs at CCR and they have no idea. I tried calling that Suby specialist place (can't think of the name - they were at WCSS9 with that white high mileage 1st gen legacy) and they said without driving the car, it's very hard to diagnose over the phone. Which I can understand - I have the same issue trying to fix a computer over the phone. Could the computer be on the fritz? Although $250 is a rather expensive test since the wrecking yards won't take them back - none within a 200 mile radius. What I don't get is why when the car is running it's roughest, the computer doesn't throw any codes, whereas when it drives fine, the CEL blinks it's way to the next county! Any brilliant ideas? Thanks, Ted

Without a muffler of some sort, yes, it would sound terrible. When we did the EJ22 conversion, he didn't get the exhaust done immeadiately so it ended right after the cat. Boy, was that LOUD! It sounded terrible too. I heard a EA71 with straight pipes - that sounded mean, but way too loud for street driving. However, if I use a set of glasspacks or turbo mufflers, that should keep the noise at a reasonable level, but still sound mean with duals. I toyed with doing duals on the EA82 in my old 86 wagon, but decided against it due to lack of low rpm torque. Since the new engine will be 2.5L, that's 1250cc per side. Should be able to find a good pipe size with that. Anybody know what the size of the EJ22 y-pipe is? I know it's double walled to keep the noise down. That's option A, option B would be get a set of equal length headers, resonator, and an STi muffler to put on there. Quiet, but deadly. The other thing with true duals is whether the ECU will be able to compensate for the fact that it's only seeing half the exhaust gasses....If it goes nuts, then I will have to use option B. Choices choices..... On a side note...drove my dad's 97 outback (207K on the clock) to work today and boy is that thing picky - bucks with the throttle just off the idle switch, check engine light blinks at me at part throttle with the RPM in the 2-4k region, when it's cold it can't make up it's mind what rpm it wants to run at, checked the codes after arriving at work and said it had 1 count of misfire cyl 4. Strange....after a drive like that it normally gives a misfire on 3 and 4. Tell you what, that's one funky subaru. Looks like I have my work cut out on that one.

Thinking of going true dual exhaust on the PandaWagon......Would be loud as all get out, but a ej25 would sound awesome that way! Putt putt one side then putt putt the other, repeat! Question is what woud the ideal pipe size be? However, first.....gotta find an EJ25 to stuff in it!:-\

Worked on wriring: Removed the A/C relays and put the fan relays in it's place. Computer wriring that needs some attention..... I'm thinking of shortening it a bit to give me a little more room under the dash.

I thought about doing that on my '86, never happened since I needed the visablity while wheeling. I also wouldn't be able to use them on the street. Instant pullover and ticket of they were not covered.

That is awesome! :headbang: Thanks Edrach!

Nice wedge and welcome to the USMB! I second subaruxt.com a bunch of good guys there too.

Correct, those are stock fenders with a little paint. I think it's the 5 lug offset that makes it look different. I really like those wheels, but I will have to see if they will clear the legacy calipers on the front. I'm working on removing the interior so I can add the rear ebrake, then I'll do the fronts. Although, I have the dash out so I can get to the heater core - a pain it is. :-\ Boy, does the dust collect in there! cough......cough.....dusty!

Yeah, the previous owner had this need for speed. I plan on fixing that. Although with that ej22 under the hood, it's not exactly a slow car anymore. He said he surprised many a ricemobile with it. Poor little honda boxes.....they just don't understand that torque rules. It's a shame he killed that engine: 80mph @ 5psi oil for about 60 miles - rod knock FTL, but, that's the perfect time for upgrades!

Didn't work on my roo, although I did take some pics with my new camera I got for Christmas: I think it looks good with the XT6 wheels on it, but my brother will not part with his. :-( Missing somthing? Yes, that's snow in Arizona! Doesn't happen very often, but it does every once in a while.

Ahhh such a beautiful sight: a subaru playin' in the snow!

My slotted brembos arrived this afternoon so I finished the 5lug conversion in the rear on my roo. I had some clearance issues on one side, had to grind down the caliper bracket a little to keep the bracket from dragging on the backside of the rotor. Gonna have to figure out how to run the parking brake cable so I can do the fronts. Looks silly with 4lug on the front and 5lug on the rear.

My roo: Ripped the front wiring harness apart to remove no longer needed devices and replace with new wiring for new devices. Redoing the power feed to the stereo for better sound, redoing the grounds - ground loops are evil! Relocating the EJ wiring harness to make it look cleaner, converting to 5-lug, replacing struts, decide what wheels I want....and the list goes on.....

my 86 wagon: EA82: Around town in easy mode: ran in the 2500-3500 range. Around town in mad mode: readline or above. On the hiway: redline all the way. Passing cars on the hiway: redline it in 3rd. Just before the ej conversion, I was hitting valve float at 7550 rpm - boy, did that engine sound like a scaled dog up there. Music to my ears. EJ22 2500-4000 range - most torque. Passing cars on the hiway: never had to downshift.

My brother has a 92 leggy MC on his ea82 wagon booster. Both were auto trannies, not sure if the hill holder on the manuals adds any differences or not, though.

Great pics, Brian! Looks like you guys had a blast. Bummer we couldn't make it, but, that's life and we will plan on going next year, Lord willing. Anyways, MORE PICS!

That is intristing, my parents 97 outback with the 2.5 will not run at all without the maf connected. I wonder what the difference is.

I think I may have just clipped that wire.:-\ Oops. I forget what I did on my brother's EJ swap. Here's an intristing piece of info: If I disconnect just the MAF, it stalls. If I disconnect anything else, it would sit at about 1700. What's funny is my Sportage doesn't do that or the SPFI swaps I've done. I might try that on the Outback and see if it does that too. Always intristing when you start pulling sensors and watch how the ecu compensates. I'll go dig out the ecu and ground that wire: pin 20 on B48 Thanks guys, Ted

Greetings great Subaru world! I've finished an EJ swap in me 86 wagon and have a few issues. First, I must say: TORQUE is addicting. I've got an EJ22 from a 92 Legacy 2WD AT. My wagon has a 5sp. When I first start up when cold, it idles at 2600RPM for about a minute then slowly begins to drop as it warms up. By the time it gets to 190deg, it's idling at ~800rpm. When I flick the throttle, it jumps to someware around 2000 and after 30 seconds it's back down where it belongs. If I start it when warm it hunts for a idle for about 15 seconds and then settles back down again. During driving, I have a hiccup when I get off the throttle, but not when I get on it. Checked codes: Nothing. I have replaced the CTS - (would idle at 2500 till 190deg, then suddenly drop to ~900 with the old cts); O2 sesor is used, but was clean when I checked it during the swappage; Checked the tps: range is smooth, idle switch is within range. I have played with the IAC valve and I can get it to idle where it belongs and have no hesitation during on/off throttle UNTIL I shut her off - then she's back at it again with the high idle and hessitation on/off throttle. I do have a spare maf I may try swapping to see if that makes any differnece. Any ideas? Thanks, Ted