subynut

Will be taking off tues morning. I will be zipping through reno, up 395 and stopping in Lakeview,OR late wed night. Although, with Suby being stubborn, I wonder if it would be wise to join up with your caravan. In fact, she died on me today. Started as a wandering idle, then no charge, then stumbling and dead battery. DRAT, now what??!? Almost am wondering if Suby doesn't want to goto WCSS. SUBY WHAT'S WHRONG WITH YOU!?!?!?!? ok, done venting.

Hummm gonna hafto check that out. Unfortunatly, I'm not goning to be able to put it in before WCSS. So, I'll hafto see how she does. That nevada desert is a killer on cooling systems. Thanks!

Weight reduction! Makes is "feel" like there's more power there.

Is the turbo radiator two row?

How much thicker is the two row vs the single row? I don't have very much clearence between my water pump and electric fan, at most a half an inch.

One Q: Is the opening of the valve itself larger in diameter? Reason being is I put a 180 in mine, but the opening of the valve of the T-stat is smaller than the 190 Suby t-stat. I took a long drive in the AZ heat and she runs at about 200 till I start climbing hills. Then she's back up to 235. She'll cool down to 190 as I decend down the grade. With the 190, she'd normally run at 210 and climb to about 240 while cimbing a grade at 65-70. While taking forever to cool back down to 210. So, it appears as tho I just don't have enough coolant flow.

I put a 180 in mine cause she was hanging around 230 too much. Flushed the cooling system and put a 180 in there. Now she runs at about 190 which is 20 deg cooler than she ran with the 190 in there. The fans never kicked on while I was in the city parade today. Only problem is she never kickes off high idle. She now idles around 1200RPM. I wonder if the coolant temp sensor is shot......... I put the 180 in there so that when I need the A/C on the way to WCSS, she's not going to overheat while buzzin through Nevada and Oregon.

Yeah, that grade before Pendelton is a biggie. I was bouncing between 3rd and 4th all the way up it. I could accelorate in 3rd, but couldn't hold it in 4th. Really coulda used a gear splitter that day. US-95 north outa Fruitland is pretty, but it's grade climbing all the way. Boy, do I miss that state! Have fun!

Accually, HTI, you're pretty much on track. loyalewithcheese: Does your car have MPFI or SPFI? If it's MPFI there will be a pair of green and a pair of black. If it's SPFI then they're White and green. Both should be disconnected during driving. Like HTI said, the green ones are used to set the timing and check the system compnents by the dealer. The other ones are used to read the stored codes when the CEL comes on in the event of an error. As far as timing, from what I've played around with the timing on my roo, I think you can pretty much set the timing to where you want your max power to be. If you go too far advanced, you run the risk of pinging and possible burnt intake valves. Personally, running at 29" won't hurt it, if your not experiencing pinging. I find it intresting that you have a flat spot around 2500 with the timing set at 20" whereas it wasn't there when it was set at 29". Hummmm gonna hafta try that on my roo. I'm currently running about 16" which moved my peek power further up the RPMs; not sure where, but it's too far for the cams I got in there.

I believe there should be a pair of connectors (one set white and the other green) right by the wiper motor on the driver's side. You need to plug the white ones in, turn the key on with the engine off and watch the LED on the ECU under the steering collum near your feet. Have you read the writeup in the USRM? Hope this points you in the right direction.

Might be a bit rough with the honda springs; there's no weight back there. Not quite sure as to what is involved in swapping the EA82 struts on the EA81s. Haven't had a chance at really looking over the differences between the two suspensions. I know MilesFox has done this kinda swap. Like I said, it may be too rough and cause it to just bounce all over the place. Just got back from watching Herbie: Fully Loaded. How dare they crush that poor little XT6!

Man, they really did a job on that dash! How'd you mount that in there?

Precicely. A welded diff is too upredictable on the street. You really never know when the rears are gonna let go. The LSD gives you better traction, compared to an open, without the driveline bind you do with a welded diff or a spool. It won't go as far as a welded diff will, BUT it will make your driveline liast alot longer. I've got an LSD in mine and I can't tell it's back there till I need the traction, then it's there. My brother's Suby is running in RWD and he's got an open diff. He usually spins just one tire. Now, when we took a trip to Tucson, he was buzzin about 85-90ish around a corner on the freeway and he saw the tach start to jump around cause he was on the edge of traction. If I was driving his car, I prolly would've felt the rear begin to come loose. It wasn't to the point of loosing it, but we were getting there. Needless to say, he backed off the throttle at that point and stayed around 80ish. Need to put 2wd or RX struts and bigger sway bar on the front and put a sway bar in the rear on that Suby. I think that'll improve it's handling by quite a bit. Ok, I'm done rambling.

Welcome to the board from Sierra Vista! Same here, no Suby stuff going on either. BUT, I will be going to the show this year.

Have you found out what that code is? What type of fuel system? MPFI or SPFI? Since it does it during warmup, I would doubt it's the O2 sensor. I would also check coolant temp, maf, and tps.

If the car only sees the street, then RWD is better then FWD: more control. Course, we all know that AWD is best but, if that ain't gonna happen, then use RWD. Besides, RWD is fun!:burnout:

Your welcome, always glad to help out.

It'l say LSD on the sticker that's on the back of the diff.

This one? http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

Personally, I would put an LSD in the back. That would give you better traction in the back without the risk of breaking something.

Oooo Pretty! My parents have one similar to that year. Man trans and red. One thing: You'll love the wide torque band of the EJ25. It ROCKS!

The spring end of the T-Stat goes down into the intake manifold.

Precisely. The indicator lamps for the H-beams sounds like somthings amiss in the dash area. Well, that's where I would start. Could be under the hood. Hafta start checking circuits. That remindes me, I need to track down that buzz in my tweets......oh what fun electrical troubleshooting is!

Ok, I checked out the intake gaskets and didn't find any leaks. Strange...me Suby is happy when the temps are below about 85. No hessitaion whatsoever. But as those temps climb, boy, does that car complain: "I don't wanna! I don't wanna! I don't wanna! " Crazy Subaru. On a side note, every once in a while, I'll get a good and loud backfire through the intake when I initally step on the gas. It only shows up when the temps are in the upper 90's.

Sounds like some serious electrical problems. First thing I would check is grounds.