subynut

Well, since I took one out, I figure Will will too.

oooooooooo pretty!

Yup, SPFI throttle body.

SPFI is easiest. The SPFI and hitachi 2brl carby intake manifolds user the same heads. MPFI would require swapping heads. SPFI uses less wiring too.

The front accord springs mount on the rear of our Subies. That'll give you a taller ride height and a stiffer ride when empty. I think the RX front springs are the stiffest of the bunch.

No, I'll check those out later today. I have rechecked the torque on them and they havn't moved, so if they are leaking some, it may be they just need to be replaced. When I did the conversion to SPFI, I didn't put new intake gaskets on because they were new when I put the new engine in a few months back. Maybe I should've.

Figured I'd give you guys a heads up. Tried swapping the MAF and the Air Control Valve with the ones in my brother's 87 wagon. Made no difference in my Suby and no change in my brother's Suby. So, I just cleaned the Air Control Valve with some carb cleaner (the plunger felt a little sticky) and adjusted the throttle linkage (wasn't opening all the way) and she seems to be running better. Accually goes to rich during WOT now! Still low vac and rough idle, but improved. I was thinking that maybe it's the cams that's causing the rough idle. Don't know. I'll see tomarow in the 95 degree temps if I've improved anything or not.:-\

Yup, what he said.^

This is an intristing thread. I have a similar problem in that she runs lean to the point of fuel starvation till about 4500rpm when she finally goes rich and she takes off. Just tried that maf trick and my Suby's rpm came up by maybe 200rpm when I unplugged it. Very intristing........

I cought it about 1/2 mile from home. Turned around and went home. Evedently, that was just long enough to take out the lights. Bummer. I've read that you can swap the composite for the dual sealed beams. You need to swap and weld that front piece that the light assembly mounts to.

First time I've had an alternator go high on me: At 2500 rpm, the voltmeter was pegged past 18 volts! Swapped the alt, went for a test drive and noticed my headlights were off. Checked for relay activation, fuses good. Hummmm.......AH HA! Headlamp filliment were blown on both sides! Thankfully my stereo didn't get hit. Corse, when I noticed the batt voltage pegged, I turned off stereo and anyother electrical devices. Except the headlights. Duh. No wonder the Digi dash gets toasted when the alt goes. So, after a new alt and headlights and 3 trips to autozone, I am back on the road.

That's with the factory hitachi A/C still installed? Or did you already remove the A/C components? Just wondering cause my ALT died this morning. Maybe I'll just swap my other suby alt in there till all this GM alt stuff gets ironed out.

ok......but I can't afford a new one, I'll hafta find a used one out of the junkyard. Besides,if it aint the air control valve, what else could it be? Coolant temp? Maf? tps? ecu? Fuel pump? That's the only thing that kicks on the CEL for a short time during warmup. It's also logical, the other posibility, I suppose, is the coolant temp sensor. She's running very lean when the air temps are in the 90's+. Nots a good combo for long desert driving. If I accually get to goto WCSS this year, I gots a LONG run though the nevada desert where there is no place to get parts for miles. Also, being a moble comp tech, I use my suby all the time. I really don't think the engine is supposed to run so close to the point of fuel starvation. I live in a hot, dry, and high elevation climate. The sensors and devices have to be within they're specification; otherwise the engine goes nuts. My hitachi carby ran some what lean during cruzing, then would go rich when I stood on it. My weber did the same thing. Why does the SPFI do this? Somthings not right and the computer is telling me nothing.

Man, I hope the Air control valve is the problem. That car of mine runs really lean with temps in the mid 90s. Very annoying............. and I aint gonna get to fix it till mid next week! AAAAAAAAAAA:banghead:

IEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!! Just got off the phone with the stealer. They said 400 bucks for one of those Air control valves! Me thinks it's gonna be a run to Tucson some time next week.:-\

Yeah, with the Weber I was running about 16"/Hg. Ok, I checked the codes as per the FSM and I had two: o2 and the Air control valve. Cleared the codes and went for a test drive and made no difference as I figured. Anyways, I checked the impedence of the air control valve and I read about 29 ohms. Acording to the FSM, it should be between 7.3 and 18 ohms. I think I found a problem. Looks like a trip to Tucson is in order. Anybody know what those go for new? Concidering this is my second J/Y valve, I think I'm going to bring an ohm meter with just so I can test it before I buy it.

There is that possiblility.

WOW!

Timing's about 22 deg. She idles a little rough. Vac is about 12"/hg (that is the proper label, right?) and no flutter. Doesn't go steady rich till 4500. And it's just barely into the rich. CEL is off, however I did not rest the ECU. I'll see if I can figure out the FSM's procedure on resting the ECU. Now, this might be relevent: During warmup, when the engine temp gets to 160, the idle starts bouncing from 1200 downto 700, then back up again. Does this about 15 times then the CEL comes on with a code for the air control valve and idles rough at about 1100 rpm. If I shut it down, and restart, it still idles rough, but the CEL is off. O2 sensor has not warmed up yet, so I don't know what the A/F ratio is.

I second that! Use the hitachi 2 barrel intake.

I'm about 335 miles south of flag. That is, if yahoo maps is right Didn't think of asking how much it was. I can ask him.

Ok, that explains alot. BUT, why does it hang out so far into the lean area? That's when my power goes splat. If it's in the upper end of the ideal, my power is more smooth. Could it be the coolant temp sensor is off a bit and causing the ECU to run just too lean? Since it's running just a little rich during the upper end of the rpm range, I don't think the fuel pump or regulator is bad. I would think as you climb up in the rpms you would have less and less fuel. Or am I just off on a wild tangent? This hesitation is driving me nuts!

Ok, I talked to the Mastercraft dealer in town and he said they are discontinued and there is a whole wapping 1 left. Bummer....

I just finished putting in a new o2 sensor in me suby. Also got the A/F guage working. I've been watching the A/F guage: during cruzzing, it's bouncing between off the scale lean to just in the rich. During accelleration, it's still bouncing till about 4500 and then it sits just a little rich till I decide to shift. So, here's my question: while I'm accellerating, it's shuddering when the A/F is lean from about 2500 to 4500. After that, it pulls good past redline. Is it supposed to do that? Also, the guage is a SunPro from Autozone. Not the most expensive unit, but it gives me an idea.

Ooooo those look good on there! Aux lights look good under the bumper, it's just not the safest place for them. :-\ I like the digi dash too.