subynut

I'll check it out.

Point taken, Qman. I'll be less torquey on my breaker bar next time. I'll also check my washers and see if they are worn out. Prolly are since I have never replaced them in all the half shafts I've swapped in the six years I've had me Suby.

I got a 24" breaker bar for tightening the castle nut. Works quite well.

Well, all that emmisions stuff is for the orig carb. You can basicly pull all that stuff out, cause the weber doesn't use it. THere's just one vacume hose and that goes to the ditsy.

That's not good. What was it rubbing on that cut the cooler?

Mine was that way before I swapped it for an electric one. Sounds like the clutch in your fan has failed. It prolly has sized closed, so it's running all the time. Yes, very annoying. Part time solution? Turn the radio up! hummmmmm............remindes me of a song..............

Yeah, mine was a snap to install too.

Yeah, in really hot weather in town it doesn't take very long before it climbs to 230 even tho both fans are on. Out on the highway she runs more in the area of 215-220.

Do you have a A/F guage? Does it run about normal?

If it's like the SPFI, it's right under the t-stat. Right above no. 1 spark plug.

I take it there's no fuel cut on the SPFI fuel system? This is VERY intristing........

Did you install that full sweep guage in the radiator or in the intake manifold? I mounted my guage in the intake. The fan kicks on around 215 and off around 195. I also mounted the sensor for the stock dash guage in one of the ports on the radiator and that shows the fan kicking on just above 5/8.

Ok, so how do we test it? Mine is doing the same thing. Runs rough when cold. Also does this hopping idle thing too: About halfway through the warmup cycle, the idle starts bouncing from about 1500 down to 800 then back up then down again for 5 or 6 times then the CEL comes on with code 24 and idles at 1100. Start driving down the road an it goes off. :confused: Great confoozed is I.

ooooo now them's some fine lookin' XT6s.

That is nuts! I love it!!!!!!!!! :eek:

Depends on what your mounting it in. If it's an EA82, the studs are already there. If not.......zip ties? I'm sure sombody that does will chime in.

Still nobody?

I've got a hayden electric fan. It's accually quieter than the clutch fan.

I can't remember what the model number is, but the DGEV with electric or water choke will not fit the EA82s that have power steering. You can use the DGEV on power steering soobs, if you put the carb on backwards. However, then you have to fab the linkage to operate from the other side. The manual choke just fits, from what I've read. There is one that effectively has the bottom mirrored, so the choke is pointing to the rear. I just don't know what the model number is.

Yes, they are the same tire. Just sold under the Mastercraft name. I've got the Mastercraft A/S IV in 185/80R13 on my Suby. They do very well on and off road. We put the Courser A/T on my Dad's F350. They are quiet, smooth, and grab excelent both on and off road as well. When I get a lift, I'll put the Courser A/Ts on my roo.

Spinin all fours? rriiigghhttt WJM: Yes, this thread does confoozes me, too. tailgatewagon: I think your best bet is the RX tranny.

Ya know, I've had mine work they're way loose after about 50 miles after a replacement too. I usually have to re-torque them about twice before they stay put. My driving is rather rough too: fast take offs, lowrange take offs at lights, drifting on dirt roads in 4wd, things of the sort. My first sign that the hubs are loose is my brakes start making funny sounds when I turn. Re-torquing the castle nut solves it.

Personally, I'd want: awd with diff lock low range with a minimum of 2:1 axle ratios are around 411 to 456s Now we're talking some torque multiplication! The only reason for 2wd is for smoking the tires to grab attention. Since the rear drivetrain is always turning, there would be very minimal milage increace. Course, smoking all four is much more impressive. hehe hondas kant do that. :-p

15? Wow. Almost makes me wanna fix mine.

Don't think so, it's more like the compressor kicks on for a time then quits. After I converted to SPFI, it seems to stay on when it's supposed to. I wonder if the idle was too low with the carby that caused the pulser to say the compressor is spinnung too slow and kicks it off. That problem seems to have fixed itself for now. Now, if I could only get the coolant temp down to a reasonable level. With temps in the high 90s, the A/C on, and city driving that temp goes from 215 on up to 240+ even tho both fans are running. I think it would keep climbing if I don't kick the A/C back off and let her sit in the shade and idle for about 5 mins then I'm back to the normal 215. But that's another topic to discuss.