subynut

Ok, this is getting rediculous. While I'm doing my sister's brakes, I notice the right rear strut would sqeak every time I touched it. Found out that the bushings are toast. I finally found the clunk when you go over bumps. Now, either the parts stores dont know what I'm talking about or they just don't have such a thing: It's hanging like this: If I push up on it, it looks like this: Anything that's rubber is considered shot in AZ, so the junkyards are out. Any sugestions?

Yes, I was a little too impatient for the Sefoam to do it's job. Didn't think it was THAT bad, guess I was wrong. Anyways, it's still apart, but not because of engine trouble, but because she asked me to check her brakes: Shot. So, now I'm doing brakes. Will this project EVER end????? Here's a quick shot of the sender unit: I ran a hose from the oil pump to here cause the sender unit is too long to fit between the pump and the radiator. Here's the point at the oil pump: At least she has a working oil pressure guage now.

Same here. Mine will run for a time then kick out till I switch to somthing differant then go back. What gives?

That looks alot like the one at autozone by hayden. I've got one on my Suby. I had one go bad on me, so I added a relay to handle the current from the fan.

You can accually get them? Or is that the junk yard? I can't at all. My sister's died too and autozone, napa, pep boys, and checker can't get them. Where did you find them?

Rest in peace little roo.

Process completed. I put the old sender unit back in and it's no longer leaking. I used the idiot light port and ran some tubing over to the passenger side where I mounted the sender unit. It seems that it's working. She's running about 25 psi at 600rpm and about 75 at high idle. TOD has gone and it's quiet again. So, all that's needed is to put the air cleaner assembly back on and my sister will be back on the road again. I'll post some pics tomarow.

Mine did that while I was flying down a rough dirt road. I think it was cause I jumped it at about 70 the day before.

Well, I picked up an aftermarket electric oil pressure guage. Put it in there and the thing leaks. Found out that the pump's threads were shot and somebody put a heli-coil in there. Well, the heli-coil broke and is leaking. So, now I'm looking at maybe useing the port for the idiot light and adding a little extention on there and re-locateing the sender unit someware else. Oh, this is so much fun!

I'm not positive, but I think that sensor is the knock sensor. Have you tried getting the codes? If not, here's an article in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 Assuming it's a three speed tranny, sounds like maybe the kickdown relay or maybe the vacume moduator. Don't have much experience with autos, but that would be my first guess. Hope that helps.

OK, I temoarally installed an aftermarket guage and it read about 19 psi at idle and around 60 psi up around 2000-3000RPM with the engine warmed up. I did a little serching and I found that the ticking is comming from mainly the driver's side. So......I've got at least one bad oil sender and/or guage, will be fixing that tomarrow. I've got good oil pressure. I think it's just a sign of poor maintenence. Will be adding some more seafoam and do some driving and I'll see if I can get this roo running better. Pyromanic: I checked for end play of the crankshaft and there was none. Thanks guys and gals!

Yeah, I don't remember when I changed her oil last. I think I'll give it a long drive and see if it will clear up. Thanks, guys!

Is it possible to drop the oil pan without pulling the engine?

Turbone: Will ATF loosen up that caked on oil in there better than seafoam? Could I mix the two? pyromanic: No, I'm not absolutely sure it's TOD, but it sure sounds like it. It appears to be comming from the heads. It's really loud initally for about a minute after the oil presssure guage comes up, then it's not as bad, but it's still loud enough that worries me. If it was my car, I would still drive it and just keep an ear on it. But, since it's my sisters'........no....I don't trust it. I'll check for play in the crankshaft and run the engine a bit longer and let the seafoam go to work. It hasn't been in there very long, so maybe I just need to be more patient. When I did that trick in my Suby, it cleared up that tick in a matter of minutes. Guess this one is gonna need a little more attention. Yes, 140k is not very old for a Suby engine. She got 200k out of her other Suby. But that was cause those were mainly highway miles. This one I think are mainly city miles. A BIG differance. I wonder if there's somthing blocking the inlet of the oil pump.......hummmmmm Thanks guys,

My sister's roo started the TOD the other day, so I did an oil change (castrol 10-w40, stp filter) with some SeaFoam in there and it made no difference. I also noticed that the oil pressure was rather low: about halfway between 0 and the 45 with a cold engine at 3000RPM and air temp around 55. At idle the pressure is 0, doesn't start climbing till about 2000RPM. The lifters are screamin' at me. Well, more like ticking at me, but you know what I mean. So, suspecting the oil pump needed a reseal, I resealed it and it made no difference what so ever. Ticking is the same as well as the oil pressure. When I resealed the pump, I noticed alot of caked on oil in the pump itself and the seals were rather hard. I do know the car was overheated a minimum of twice, it leaks oil everyware, and it's not blowing any smoke whatsoever. Power is ok, not great, but it'll get to 80 without too much work. It's got just under 140k miles. Here's my question: Does it sound like there is somthing wrong with the oil system internally? I think it just needs a reseal, but if there's any machine work, I'm outa luck cause there's no shops around here that'll work on them. Is there anything I could put in the crankcase that would loosen up that oil mess and free up the oil passages? At this point, it's looking like an engine swap because it would be the quickest way to get her on the road again. Any ideas? Thanks,

I did find a relay that's 62 ohms. I'm gonna try that and see if I can fake out the ECU. If that works, then all I have to do is find a 12V 3-way valve. Else, it's gonna be find a 68 ohm 5 watt resistor. Really want that CEL off. It's buggin' me.

Not on fuel injected models. However it might be a small exhaust leak. Very slim, but it is possible.

Looks nice! Good job!

Does the ticking get faster as the engine speed increaces? If so, that sounds like valve lifter tap. Throw some MMO or Seafoam in the crankcase on your next oil change. Do you have an oil pressure guage? Where's it sit at say, 3500 RPM? Should be around the 45psi mark. That would be my guess.

213.8k

Here's my setup: Mine's an 86, so I just mounted them to the metal part under the plastic. Man, I gotta replace that grille......stupid mesquite trees.....

Precicely. BUT if I can find a replacement solenoid valve, I would prefer to keep them enabled. Currently, my computer is complaining about the Purge, EGR and the Neutral safety switch. I may just throw those resistors in and see if I can get the ECU to run in closed loop mode. I assume you picked those resistors up at RadioShack, right?

So, they are kicked on by the ECU at a certain temp. Cool, that means I can just find another 3-way solenoid valve and drive it with another relay that has roughly the same impeadance as the original solenoid valve. Hehe hehe hehe.......the wheels are begining to turn......... Thank you!

Hummmm I guess there's no guenius in the house.

Yes, the front cat is part of the y-pipe secton. My guess why the PCV valve can wreak havoc would be when it fails it usually fails open which causes a large vacume leak. That can cause the engine to run lean requiring more throttle to accelerate.