subynut

How do they work? Does the ECU just turn them on for a time then off or is it pulsed? Such as the EGR: The ECU kicks on the solenoid valve after the engine has warmed up, then the throttle body takes care of controlling the EGR valve itself. The purge control valve is opened after the car is warmed up and the engine speed above say 2000 RPM. Am I right? I think that's how I interpret those systems. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

It runs! Turned out to be a grounding issue with the base of the ignitor. Ran a wire from there to a grounding point on the engine and whala! I have spark!

It runs! You were right. The ignitor wasn't properly grounded. Ran a wire from the ignitor base to a ground point on the engine and VROOM! WOO HOO!! Now, all I need is a Purge control valve and a EGR sol valve. I know, they're not really necissary for engine performance, but I would prefer them to be there. I took her out for a test drive and there is a little hesitation thruout the rpm range. Just slight glitches I can feel. I havn't installed the y-pipe with the o2 sensor yet, funny how the ECU isn't complaining about it. Very odd, but anyways, I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Thanks MorganM!

I agree

Ok, the wires to the coil are correct. But I'll hafta check the ignitor connector when I get home from work. I know there is a black/white wire at the ignitor connector, don't remember what the other wire color is. When I pulled the wiring harness out of the parts car, I kept everything in tact(no cutting any wires) and I made sure that the wiring looked good (no fraying or broken insulation) before I installed it into the car. What happends during the start procedure? Detects the start signal from the starter, checks if the neutral safety switch is on, what else? The starter wire is hooked up and the neutral safty switch is disconnected.

It's mounted in the spare tire area using one of the bolts that holds the A/C hose in place. I also have that ground wire that is amidst that bundle of wires attatched to the chassis also.

The Accel was in there before and I also put it in my brother's 87 SPFI car and it was good. Yes, the ditsy is electronic like the MPFI. I checked the polarity of the coil and it's wired right. I also put the original coil back in with no change.

I just converted my 86 carbed wagon to SPFI out of a 88. BUT, I got no spark. Everything else seems to work, but no spark. I started a thread in the retrofitting forum, but it's kinda quiet over there. So, here's the link to that thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35801 Any ideas?

Well, I took the ditsy apart, but the wires are molded into the sensor. I was hoping I could just swap the pigtails, but that won't be possible. I was going to test the ditsy in my brother's car, but unless I cut and solder, then cut and resolder the wires, I don't think I can swap the ditsys just for a test. Do you know if the ECUs are the same? One's a 87 used to be AT now MT. And the other is a 88 MT. Just trying to pinpoint the problem. Any other ideas as to why there's no spark?

Oh, ok, I'll give that a try.

I just finished converting my carbed 86 wagon to SPFI out of an 88 by following the guide in the USRM. However, I have no spark. I tried swapping the ditsy with a spare; no change. I would test the ditsy in my brothers' Suby, but the connectors are differant between 87 and 88. I tested the coil/transistor assembly and that tested good. I tested for power at the connectors of the ditsy and the power transistor and I have power there. I checked for codes and all I get is 34 and 35: EGR sol. valve and Purge control valve. What else could it be? I have an oscilliscope, so if I need to check for waveforms I can. I would just need some idea as to what the waveforms are supposed to look like. Help?!?!?!?

That works too!

Cool, thanks! Figures, I was backwards. Thank you!

Hummmm......odd. Nobody knows?

Find a late 80's GL-10 turbo. That has the LSD in it. Just look under the rear end of the car and look for the LSD label. You just would hafto swap the LSD unit out of the 3.7 diff into the 3,9 open diff that's in your Brat. Here's a link to the USRM with a good writeup on how to do it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=36

I bought a set of StrongArms (4949L and 4949R) from Carquest for about 80 for the pair.

I'll try. It's almost sounds like a hiss comming from underneath the car while your accellerating. My sister's Suby was the center cat, so it sounded like it was right under the shifter. If it was the front cat, it would sound like it's in the front by your feet. My sister's was quite loud; however, it was very clogged too. I've only been able to hear it while I'm driving. Sitting still, I can't hear it. Dat help?

On the SPFI throttle body, which fuel line is the input and which one is the output? I've got it setup with the upper one as the input and the lower one as the output. Is that right? I'm doing the SPFI conversion on Suby, lotsa fun!!

Those are cute! I like them! Yes, next Brat needs to be lifted.

Do you hear the sound of rushing air comming from under the car when your accelerating? Since you've done a tuneup, I am almost leaning towards cloged cat or muffler. My sister's Suby did that: No power, top speed around 55, poor milage and a very noticeable hiss comming from under the car. Turned out to be clogged cats. She had the front one replaced and I gutted the mid cat. Made a world of a diference. The clogged cats was caused by too long without a tuneup. Just my 2 cents.

Awesome!

Mine is a N/A EA82, but it would give you an idea: I paid 1500 shipped. That included SPFI pistons, decked the heads, and the cams reground by Delta Camshaft. Best bet is give Emily a call!

Nice writeup. Don't need to understand french, the pics tell it all!

Ooooo that SVX is pretty! When I can afford a second Roo I'll get one of those. Make that the cruzzin' mobile! Honda? what honda?

ooooo me like! I like the the contrast between the blue and the aluminum color. Looks nice. Good job!