jelliff

No its not done yet.... lol. Uncle has stage 4 now so I spent some time with him. I did get a chance yesterday to order OEM bearing and seals. 66bucks can ya believe it... free shipping too. Have a friend with a press, so hopefully it'll all be back to operating properly by the beginning of next week. I just can't believe how busy this site is still. I'm in the right place for sure. Thanks for all the help, and I did pull the ABS wire with the knuckle as a complete unit. Gotta love my matco impact. Soaked for days on end and the all bolts spun right off with no real issues. Thanks

This is off topic to a degree, but not too far out. I have both a craftsman and a matco impact. Many many times the craftsman simply doesn't have the torque needed. Either I use a breaker bar for this or the matco impact. Easy breezy with both of these after several days of repetitive soaking with a penetrant. I also use pb from a gallon jug with a hand sprayer. Time and patience as well as a quality piece of equipment is what I've found necessary for these not so often tackled projects. Spray it down for a few days, if time allots. Good luck and happy new year.

Got the knuckle and assembly off now. What aftermarket besringss have you folks used on these and had good success. I priced OAM bearings at Subaru as well as Napa and well over $100 I would like to go less expensive so let me know what's out there and what you guys like

hmmmm, I like that idea. I'd rather contend with a 2 foot wire than deal with this more. excellent John. thanks

I've been doing my darndest to take this ABS sensor out from the backing plate on my imp.. Does anyone have any tips/tricks for the removal of it? I've obviously removed the bolt, but I can not seem to get this to budge from the backing plate porthole. I've tried soaking this in pb blaster for the last 4 days. Once I get this off, I can then go forward with the wheel bearing replacement. I have access to a press, but no slide hammer removal tools. this is the drivers side rear wheel I am referring thanks, Joe

merry Christmas to all my fellow subie peeps

I used partsgeek.com for a few pieces necessary for my 93. I would not recommend them to anyone. I ordered 2 seals with the same part number and I received 2 different seals. both were packaged as the correct item and part #. returning to an online store is such a hassle that it is almost not worth the headache. So, I still have a seal if anyone needs one. lol no idea what it is truly intended for though. In the future I will only be ordering local if it is available. I'd rather pay a couple extra bucks and save the headache and irritation.

yup fishy, you're too late, but thank you anyway. This is by far the biggest rust bucket I've ever bought. yep, I bought it alright. super nice lady who has had the same mechanic working on it since 06 when she purchased it. It definitely has issues to be dealt with, but nothing that can't be taken care of. catalytic converter was non existent and therefore it shows a check engine light. I was very happy that she did not start it up for me beforehand. it was as cold as the outside weather at about 28 degrees when looking at it this morning. I checked all the fluids and they were all fine. Oil was down a smidge, but looking at her previous oil change sticker I saw that it isn't due til 183200 or jan 16. So, that was a pleasant surprise to see it truly doesn't leak oil. all major maintenance was at 177k and noted as well as being completed. This includes timing belt and water pump. Everything appeared to be working minus the rear wiper. cruise and all other accessories still operating. It needs rear wheel bearings done and I'll do the brakes on the rear again although they look ok right now. I honestly, even showing as badly as it did, can't believe I purchased it for 300.00 and then drove it home 210 miles. It should serve me well thru this winter and maybe a few more. Considering the amount of cancer it does have, that will be it's only job. Heat works great and the A/C even works as well, though I'll never use it. I'll try and get some pictures up here in the next day or two. I'm just crazy happy at the moment with my "ugly betty" subie. half shafts were very good and look to have also been replaced within the last year or so I'd say. So, other than the wheel bearing issue I'd say the only other item to be concerned with is that it seemed to be a touch jerky when going up a hill. Nothing severe, but noticeable. You can accelerate out of that and it'll become smooth again though. I doubt she ever knew that as her area was fairly flat and mine is as well. Just something I noted on the drive home thru some hills in northern Iowa around Dubuque. This subie was a Madison WI resident from birth until now. have a great rest of your weekend guys and gals. Joe

I'm going to go look and most likely buy a 2000 impreza outback sport wagon tomorrow morning. What, if any out of the norm, should I be looking to check for? obvious things not necessary. More looking for someone to direct me to the not so obvious things inherent to this generation subie. thanks guys and gals, Joe it's an automatic, 2.2 with 182k. appears to be completely stock, with the exception of the added dings and dents from the last 15 years

well, I absolutely hate to say this....but... when I burped the radiator it appears that I had some fluid go into the #1 plug hole. seeped into and onto the plug itself and thus fouling it out. I knew it had to be simple, but I was really hoping for something not so unapologetic... anyways, back to running excellent again with a new set of NGK plugs. They weren't due to be changed, but we'll just say they were. Now, how to explain my error to my better half without having her laugh....

I just joined a few minutes ago to get some knowledge. In no way would I consider myself a mechanic. A mechanic can diagnose and fix the issues. I can do the latter, just not the diagnosing part. That said I'll go into the issue at hand. I bought my 93 impreza fwd ej18 automatic with 175k on it or thereabouts. I knew there'd be issues as there always is with older vehicles. Oil leaks being the worst of my subie's issues. This is what I've done so far. (1) replaced the Oil separator gasket. (2) timing belt and water pump (3) front crank seal (4) oil pump o ring (5) both cam seals (6) front cam seal O ring (7) rear cam seal O ring and cam plug were to be done, but Partsgeek sent wrong items for them. Motor ran very well previous to this. Upon reinstallation I had to contend with a lifter that lost pressure, but it did come back to life pretty quick. I had to add a pint or so of trans fluid as well as my plug blew out of line when I test started it before completing the radiator and such. so, here's where I'm at now. It starts and idles and runs perfectly for a bit. What I'm noticing now is after being warmed up, if you accelerate quickly and mash the pedal down it is fine. If you just barely ease into the pedal it is fine. If you just drive it normally like everyone does it will start to bog down and back fire through the muffler. It has not died and I hope it doesn't. The only code that comes up is 33 being the VSS. For my limited knowledge I would say it acts like a clogged injector or the like. But that's just it it's limited knowledge and that's why I am asking for your help in possible diagnoses. thanks, Joe

Hi, I was just cruising the net to find a forum board to discuss and help me keep my subie going another 100k. I am in no way shape or form a good mechanic. I know some of the basics, but that's about it. Thus, I am here to gain knowledge and keep from having to pay the man to do the work for me... thanks for letting me join.