kayakertom

I just buy the short ones (105mm) and just add washers under the pulley if it turns out I need a long one.

I recently took apart a parts wagon motor and one head has similar symptoms - turned out to be a dislodged valve seat seal that got caught between the valve and head, which keept the valve spring compressed.

Did you use OEM intake manifold gaskets? If you didn't, this could explain the white smoke. How about the reinforced o-ring between the head and camshaft tower? That oil passageway has high pressure and without the right o-ring, it will leak.

What is your source for the replacement gear?

Two things that I would check right away are: possibility of a vacuum leak and rolling friction - how easy do the wheels spin?

I've been happy with the quality, price and speed of delivery from AutoPartsWorld. <http://www.autopartsworld.com/subaru_parts.html>

This sears tool has a rachet-like locking mechanism that allows you to compress the dual ea82 springs on each valve and then your hands are free to coax the split cylinder retainers out - I use a small screwdriver and needlenose pliers.

Have started rebuilding some spare ea82 heads and after quickly breaking a new valve spring compressor tool from one of the local sport/auto stores, returning it and then seeing a too high price on the NAPA tool, went to Sears and picked up tool # 947627 for $20. This works great and looks like it will last for years. (No connection to Sears.) For this tool to work, the head must be removed from the vehicle.

Your 1 & 2 problems indicate a head gasket problem. #2 is probably coolant leaking into one of the cylinders. If you do a compression test, let it sit overnight and look for coolant when you pull the plugs.

A headgasket not torqued properly or not using oem intake manifold gaskets?

I have the same year dl wagon and get 24 mpg mixed city/hiway and 28 mpg hiway. As GD says, it is very easy to have some vacuum hoses hooked up incorrectly. Also with an '87, many of the hoses will have become hardened with age and heat exposure, so they will be a source of vacuum leak. Another thing to do is test for any brake drag - jack up each corner and see how easy each wheel spins in neutral.

Am ready to start my conversion. The white '87 gl 3-door ea82 has only 134K on it. It had a HG problem along with stripped plug threads and apple cored governor gear. Replaced one head and put in a replacement governor gear, but after just 8 miles, it shows coring again. Engine runs great. Bought a bare d/r transmission - supposedly a jdm one with less than 60K miles through it. Found an '87 gl wagon (264K on odometer) also with a d/r transmission with interior trim that matches the 3-door. Have pulled the motor already and seperated the pressure plate, flywheel and bellhousing. Plan to pull the 3-door motor and then the auto trans. Have pulled ea82 motors 6x now, but not from an automatic - any advice? The jdm trans has apparently been lying around for the past 4 years without any oil, should I replace any seals? Have an excellent - lower mileage pedal assembly ready to go in the 3-door (thanks Ed). Anything else to worry about? PS: There is usually good beer here.

If your oil pressure is good, you might try using "Seafoam" added to your oil. If you do access the lifters, it is fairly easy to pop off the retaining cap and clean out the innards and put them back together. I have just finished rebuilding and installing an engine and I did replace some of the lifters with spares that I have. When my motor started, it was fairly noisy, but within 3 minutes of adding Seafoam, it quieted down.

Have been slowly dismantling a $100 parts wagon and got to the engine yesterday. Pulled a valve cover off and right away noticed 1 missing rocker arm and the corresponding exhaust valve spring at a noticeably lower height than the other three. When I pulled the head, found that the exhaust valve was held open by a dislodged concentric disc insert that surrounds the valve stem. This disc is of slightly larger diameter than the exhaust valve itself (not a stem seal?). Found the missing rocker arm lodged in one of the coolant chambers. From the looks of the piston chamber, the previous owner must have been running on 3 cylinders for awhile.

If you are not getting any smoke out of the exhaust and your engine oil is not a milkshake of coolant and oil, then I would suspect the heater core or hoses to be the problem. You could partially drain the radiator and then bypass the heater core with a new hose to test.

Anyone know where the radiator fan relay for a '90 Loyale w/o ac is located? On my '87 gl parts wagon with ac, it is located on the passenger side of the engine bay behind the strut tower. Have pulled off the panel by the fuses, but didn't see it there either.

Sounds like a seriously cracked head.

So that we are on the same page; you have the engine block then the cylinder heads, then the camshaft tower, then the valve cover. If the leak is coming from between the cylinder head and camshaft tower, did you use the reinforced o-ring?

From your description, I'm not convinced the problem is the fuel pump. I would put new NGK sparkplugs in, check for good ignition wire connections, spray sone carb cleaner in and around the carb, check and replace hardened vacuum lines and replace the fuel filter.

I've done 6 motor installs in the past year without a clutch aligning tool. It's fairly easy to eyeball it for centering. When you drop the motor onto the transmission shaft, have the car in gear so you can bump the car / turn the shaft to come through. Quote: Originally Posted by Joey Joe Thats easy enough, any one know if a clutch alligner is necissary?

Another simple thing to do to keep your subaru running great is to just use NGK sparkplugs.

My '89 xt has them and the other day I clipped my neighbors' tall garbage cannister while driving in reverse - the mirror popped forward on impact and then I got out and popped it back in place - no damage.

I use petroleum jelly. It helps also to have the camshaft sprocket pointer aligned for timing belt installation, so that you are not working against the valve springs.

I have an '89 xt, fwd, non-turbo ea82 mpfi with the 4eat auto trans and I have to say that this is the first auto trans car that I enjoy driving. The car gets about 26 mpg and shifts very smoothly. 173K on the vehicle, no oil drips, no rust and the car drives like a slot car = cheap fun.

Does it still have the key in the keyway slot on the crankshaft? You need that to lock the harmonic balancer / crank pulley to the shaft. "To clarify a little more: Well what happened, is that my pulley came completely off, and I would like to know if there is any sort of spacer between the bolt, pulley, and crankshaft."