kayakertom

This is the kit, I will use: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-2386-k-d-tools-2125.aspx With the helicoil, I don't like the idea of the end of the wire that gets knocked off remaining in the combustion chamber for in-situ repairs. With the D K tool, you are supposed to be able to use the reamer without drilling, but it looks like I will have to drill out a little metal before tapping. Will be using grease on the end of the drill, reamer and tap to collect metal shavings.

Coming home from work tonite, my #1 sparkplug went ballistic... The ea82 wagon was a little loud, but it made the 4 miles home - mostly downhill. The ballistic plug stayed attached to its wire. Get to try out my D-K rethread kit.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the rear flange on the oil pump pulley - look for scrape wear on the pump itself behind the pulley.

612k miles? It would take me a 50 -100 years to put this many miles on my subaru wagon... http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/1990796194.html Ad will expire in a few days.

For those of you who have recycled engine blocks, do you knock out the steel piston sleeves to get the aluminum price or is it not worth the trouble? What's an expected amount to get for a short block? (Time for me to clean up my bone yard.)

Took the brake/tail light assemblies out and discovered that the the black caulk used to help seal the opening was missing on the top of both. Cleaned everything and applied fresh calk - so far no leaks. It was a pain to undo one nut on either side - need 8mm deep socket to do it easily. The solution offered by themoneypit would also probably have worked. Good tip on checking that long hatch seal Caboobaroo. ........................................... Great to have USMB back...

Will look at this, thanks.

No spoiler on my 3-door.

OK, so it has been raining a lot in Oregon and I'd like to keep the water on the outside of the car... Searched , but didn't find find anything useful. Anyone with a 3-door or rx know how to keep the water out? The rubber around the hatch area looks good.

It seems like the cause of the driver's side timing belt failure was a separated inner belt guide on the oil pump. It wasn't until I had everything back together and the car running without the belt covers that I discovered this. The rattle noise drew my attention and seeing how the thin metal guide was bouncing around, it looked like it could catch and slice into the belt. Have a new oil pump, but need to pick up a mickey mouse gasket for it.

This is getting ridiculous, always the driver's side. Will be keeping the covers off now. Good thing my AAA covered the tow.

Took my 88 gl wagon through deq this morning, it had sat 2 years since I had fixed the broken clutch fork (reason previous owner sold it) and resealed the motor. Car passed which was a relief, since today was the last day of my trip permit. They just did an idle exhaust test. Also got to Sherwood U-Pull-It and found some some good parts. There are at least 3 gl's there, 2 wagons and a 3-door.

If anyone else is interested, this web forum is a great source of information and deals for electric bikes and motorcycles: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/index.php There is an explosion of new motors, batteries, controllers and related components. I'm building my first e-bike and its been a lot of fun. Have done other electric vehicles over the past 20 years, but the performance was always lacking, now it is available at a reasonable cost.

Is your hub nut torqued to 150 ft lbs?

Had to replace my '88 gl front driver's side wheel bearings and it was a battle every step. Got everything back together except the roll pin. After several attempts, the old roll pin was too damaged, so I put in a large cotter pin as a temporary fix. Any major concerns running with this for a week? Probably no highway or off-road driving, just neighborhood / work commuting.

Somewhere in the Older generation archives is the advice to drill a small diameter hole through the top of the bell housing for manual trans vehicles in order to drop a phillips screwdriver into the flywheel rim holes. I've done this with all my ea82 vehicles and it works 100% of the time to allow loosening of the crank pulley.

There are two timing belts; pay attention to what GD says. What repair manual are you using? Pull all the plugs, then put your left index fiinger over plug #1 and rotate the crank shaft; the rotor should be pointing in the general direction of #1 when you feel pressure. If you are 180 degrees off, you need to reset your distributor. ................

Those oil pressures look good. Try Seafoam in your oil - it works great for allowing the lifters to be properly pressurized.

Soak those 17mm bolt threads with PB blaster first. Also, if I remember right, there are two smaller bolts - one on both bottom sides of the bumper going into the body sheet metal.

Take out your spark plugs and go through a few rotations of your crankshaft and check your cam positions with the center line matched up with the indicator. If that is correct, put a finger over the #1 plug hole while rotating the crankshaft and verify that you are getting compression when the distributor rotor points to #1 distribitor position at 20 d btdc. (Rotate engine in cw direction, when facing it.)

Another possibility is the air mass sensor located by your air filter.

Has anyone taken those donut spare tires off of the rims and mounted narrow 15" tires on the donut wheels? The spares that I have are 15"x4" wheels. If I remember right, the old vw's and volvo's used to have 165x15" tires.

It turned out that one of the bolts in the gearshift brackets was in backwards and the threaded end stuck out just enough to block the hi/lo shaft from moving very much. I did the auto to d/r transmission swap 2 years ago and haven't had the interference problem until this week. Will keep it in fwd now until I get the time to reverse the bolt.

I haven't had the need to use it lately; on Sunday, I used it to drive up my car ramps to change the Oxygen sensor. Backed off and then when I went to gp to work on Tuesday, I tried going into fwd and while trying to disengage got it stuck in 4wd lo - will also go into the neutral point between lo and hi.

My '87 3 door with a d/r is stuck in 4wd lo. I have tried going in reverse and then pushing the lever; also tried lifting and rotating wheels but no luck so far. Did a search and don't see any other tips.