kayakertom

Gary, you are ready to pounce quicker than I can read through and correct myself...

With the clutch job, I would replace the throw-out bearing clips and re-grease the pivot ball / fork interface and replace that clip.

Some scumbag put a long, wavy, deep key scratch on the drivers side of my white gl-3 door yesterday at the Barbur Transit Station parking lot; also left a door paint scrape on the passenger side. No security camera coverage in the lot, but I will be looking for a grey car with white paint scrapes on a drivers door at a certain height... What's the best way to handle the scratch?

88 F350 extended cab dually with a 460 74 Sebring Vangard Citicar (electric - 48V) 91 SunCoaster - 3 wheeled solar electric (built from scratch) 87 dl wagon 87 gl 3-door 88 gl wagon

Be careful in making sure you get the correct water pump - there are 2 choices, one for vehicles with ac and one for non ac cars. The difference is reflected in the stand off height of the drive pulley. The difference is a few mm. I have used the shorter pumps on cars that needed the taller pump by using small washers to gain the offset. So a search for more info. ... water pump on a 1991 Loyale?

Looks good - has it just had one previous owner? Original head gaskets?

A little late now, but the lifters are pretty easy to clean out when things are apart. The caps can be pried off and the innards soaked & cleaned. Might be worth trying Seafoam at this point. Also, next time you do the heads, when you unbolt the exhaust manifold put plastic bags over the exposed pipe opening to prevent any more coolant entering when the heads are removed.

Thanks GD; I'll be posting a for sale for them over on the XT6 website.

The information in that post just adds to the confusion - I've done searches and both xt fwd and impreza models come up with the numbers.

I'm trying to identify what years and models the following half shafts are for; Subaru part #: 23291GA430 Have 4 that came from an Ebay auction 2 years ago and have misplaced the paperwork that came with them.

No; I have another mpfim non-turbo engine, that does not have it. Maybe, I should rephrase the question: Are oil separators on ea82 mpfi motors just found on turbo blocks or is this an improvement that appeared one year on all mpfi blocks?

If you ever get the chance to drive a well maintained non turbo mpfi ea82, you will notice a big change. This design was a necessary step for subaru to develop its present day engines.

On the rear of the ea82 mpfi motor I got this morning there is what I think is an oil separator mounted on the passenger side of the short block (sits behind the flywheel); is this just found on mpfi turbo ea82's? (See the thread on cl/ebay items for sale - ea82 motor - has a link to the cl ad with photos.)

Bolts picked up. ..... I have a set from a donor engine, call and pick up before 3pm. Tom

With a transmission jack it is not bad. Drain the fluid first. Good luck.

If you have good tread on your rear tires, I would put the rears up front and your unmatched pair in the rear. Should have same type of tires and wear pattern for the fronts.

I still plan on removing the bumper in order to add nuts to the three oversized bolts that I installed. Will also see about adding those extra 2 bolts. I'd also like to put the towhooks back on - will look for longer bolts.

Finally got a Hidden Hitch for my 87 dl wagon and was too much of a hurry to bolt it on. These hitches bolt on using the 7 bolts from the rear tie down rings. Three of the seven bolts broke when I tried removing them and it was a big pain to drill out the studs and retap the threads. What I should have done is take my time and remove the rear bumper; with the bumper removed, you have easy access to spray on penetrating fluid to the bolt threads / welded nuts.

Eastside: Foster U-Pull-It (near 205) Westside: Sherwood U-Pull-It (on 99)

It will only get worse and lead to other problems. The pivot ball stud and retainer wire clip may also need to be replaced. I'd get a new wire clip from the dealer and used fork and ball stud - don't forget to grease the joint.

My latest project is an 88 gl wagon with a d/r transmission; previous owner had a problem shifting, here's why: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=16407&cat=984 The flywheel seems to have been recently resurfaced, but the pilot and through-out bearings had to be replaced. Car should be back on the road this next weekend - have resealed the engine while it was out.

Worked for me; I followed the links to an '87 gl and it came up with a range of bearings from $8.29 to $30+.

Take it to the NAPA - Beaverton Auto Parts store, they know what they are doing.

Tits are plural, what I described is a different (lower) part of the anatomy of a clutch fork.

I recently picked up a project wagon with the same symptoms you describe. When I pulled the engine, I discovered that the clutch fork had failed at the hemi-sphere indent where the fork pivots - the pivot ball broke through the fork metal. The only way to fix is to remove the motor and replace the fork.