kayakertom

The special o-rings are between the camshaft towers and the cylinder heads. You need to have the middle of the 3 marks on the flywheel lined up with the pointer so that the valve assembly is in the fully closed position - eases dissasembly and reassembly and sets you up for correct timing belt placement.

Another possibility is the failure of the o-ring that is between the head and camshaft tower. If your car doesn't have the special - metal reinforced o-ring there, that would be a likely source for leaks at high rpm / high pressure.

I just went through the Oregon DEQ headache and finally passed with my spfi 87 gl; the problem turned out to be the #3 intake valve not seating properly at low rpm. A replacement 1-3 head fixed it. Worth doing a compression test.

Update, the gl 3-door finally passed emissions today! It turned out that the problem was low compression on one cylinder - I guess this pushes out unburned fuel. Anyway, the fix was to replace the 1-3 cylinder head (had a rebuilt one in my stash of parts ready to go). In Oregon, if your registration is up, you can get two 3 week trip permits and then if you can't get the car through emissions, you have to wait a whole calender year to try again. New emissions results: Idle @ 900rpm: hc = 16 pass, CO = 0.01 pass 2500 rpm: hc = 27 pass, CO = 0.43 pass Now I have to focus on my 87 dl wagon which also failed. The intake valve seals really need to be replaced - lots of blue smoke when it starts cold.

If your clutch pedal is not returning, that could mean the clutch cable is binding or is kinked.

At this point, I would disconnect all of the engine electrical connectors, spray the contacts with a contact cleaner, let air dry, reconnect and then try to restart.

I would de-turbo the GL-10 by putting in an XT non turbo motor - easiest way to go and you wind up with good power and dependability. The 4eat is a very nice match to the ea82 motor. Just part out the donor GL. ............ I just acquired myself (2) Subies. The good car - 01/89 GL-10 Wagon, AWD, Auto, EA82T, Bad Motor (hole in block) The donor car - 10/89 GL Wagon, D/R, Manual, EA82 SPFI, Bad Body (tree fell on car) So I want to swap the good motor EA82 into the GL-10. What problems can I expect? Both cars are complete.

I've found those radiator thermoswitchs unreliable, have my passenger side fans wired to bypass them and come on whenever the ignition is on. The ac equipped ea82s are wired with a relay located on the passenger side by the vacuum bottle - that may be the problem.

Well, it failed again. The timing was staticly set to 15 degees btdc (this corresponded to 19 degrees btdc dynamic without the green connectors together), the idle was increased to 1k and 2 bottles of heat added to 1/4 full gas tank. Had to wait in line for 30 minutes before the test. new numbers: Idle @ 980 rpm: hc = 213 pass, CO = 2.8 fail, CO2 = 12.2 pass 2560 rpm: hc = 53 pass, CO = .02 pass, CO2 = 14.4 pass 2nd idle @ 980 rpm: hc = 373 fail, CO = 6.0 fail, CO2 = 10.5 pass Old numbers: Idle @ 720rpm: hc = 362 fail, CO = 2.7 fail, CO2 = 12.2 pass 2500 rpm: hc = 166 pass, CO = 5.2 fail, CO2 = 11.5 pass I'll run it a bit tonite and retard the timing a little more before another go at the test tomorrow.

Check for brake drag problems by jacking up each wheel and see how easily they spin. Also on a nice flat paved section of road get up to 25mph with the windows rolled down, put in neutral, coast to a stop and listen/feel for anything dragging.

Took my car - 87 gl ea82 spfi 3-door for DEQ and it failed. Car had new NGK plugs and wires, recent oil change. Idle @ 720rpm: hc = 362 fail, CO = 2.7 fail, CO2 = 12.2 pass 2500 rpm: hc = 166 pass, CO = 5.2 fail, CO2 = 11.5 pass Since the test on Friday, I have changed the O2 sensor, cap and rotor. Went to check timing and when I connect the green connectors the car dies and won't restart until it is disconnected. Tried loosening the distributor bolts and rotated in both direction but it still won't start with the green connectors together. When I did the timing a month or so ago, I had no problems using the green connectors. The only work I've done on the engine in the past month was a thorough cleaning of the air mass sensor and idle air valve. Have reset the timing to 25 btdc with the green connectors separate and idle increased to 900rpm. Runs very smooth in my test through 4th gear in my neighborhood. What's going on with the green connectors / vacuum advance disable? About how many degrees per 1k does the electronic advance provide? Will take it again to DEQ tomorrow.

Have you timed the engine recently? Using NGK plugs? Good plug wires? Once you have it running does it have normal power and normal gas consumption? Seafoam might help a clogged injector, but your motor symptoms don't sound like a clogged injector.

Use an ohm meter and test for continuity of the two wires when the trans is put into reverse to tell if it is the reverse switch. You will likely need to clip off the connector and add wire lengths to bring the leads to the electrical connector by your shifter. You can figure out the appropriate two pins to connect to by either using the meter on the auto shift mechanism or a wiring diagram. You can solder the ends and jam them into the connector. Be careful routing your wires so that they don't interfere with the shift linkages.

No, when you bolt it on the top, the bottom holes for the ea81 fan shroud don't quite match the radiator. One other consideration is to keep the replacement fan for the clutch fan as the primary - the ac compressor will get too hot otherwise.

Along with the IAC, the other thing to check is the 2 terminal temperature sensor - check cold resistance - 4K? and clean the connectors. Is the MAF nice and shiny? I would also clean the MAF connector along with the throttle position sensor connector - spray with electrical contact cleaner and let air dry. I finally found a use for a ratcheting right angle screw driver I've had for a long time - those 4 screws for the IAC. You also want to have some gasket making material for the IAC on hand if you can't reuse the old one.

Let us know when you are going to PIR for a run, I'd go to watch with a camera.

I remember back in the 70's when the Japanese cars started appearing in large amounts and how "Lost in Translation" the ads and owner manuals were - lots of confusion that was very amusing. No wonder the confusion continues today. I think Leone might come from this language jumble: Le + One.

Take off the top of the air cleaner and verify that when the engine is cold that the choke has closed the butterfly valve. The choke is electrical, so clean the electrical connectors and also the mechanical parts. Check your vacuum hoses carefully. You can adjust the choke also, the choke won't go off with tapping the pedal as it is electrically controlled.

Are you pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor a couple of times first on the colder mornings first before trying to start? (That's what the owner's manual says to do and it works for me.) 2K or a little higher is right for the fast idle until things warm up, if it's higher, you tap the accel pedal to kick it down to the 2k range until the choke goes off. Check your ignition wires and clutch pedal switch for the starter related problem.

Looks like we are going to do the same thing... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66295 Where are you finding these EA-82 (MPFI w/o turbo) engines?

Initially, I don't want to modify or change over the heads of this motor.

mpfi non-turbo xt motor - 9.0 compression ratio. Being in the NW, there are at present several cars available - gl10 turbo wagon, and hondasucks has a xt turbo awd manual available. no more auto trans subarus for me

When I had my xt, I was the high ebay bidder on a professionally rebuilt mpfi non-turbo motor. Never had to replace my xt motor and recently sold the car, leaving me with the fresh motor. So, the question is: any major problems in putting this motor in a turbo ea82 vehicle and removing the turbo bits?

Well, your rear driveshaft won't have a place to be connected to the 2wd trans. What's wrong with you 3-door vehicle? Might be easier to swap your loyale motor into the 3-door.

I've just reversed myself on doing the dual electric fans and have reinstalled the mechanical clutch fan (a little nightmare putting that back on) on my 87 3-door, which has ac. I did this because I noticed that both sides of my ac metalic hoses were hot after a short drive. I think that without a sufficient amount of cooling air blowing over the compressor area, that engine heat will just conductively heat things too much. My 87 dl wagon with no ac, no power steering and no clutch fan is so much easier to work on - too bad it has a hitachi carb.