kayakertom

I got 2 last month off of ebay for $60 each, have posted the info in the forum covering ebay and craig's list. One went into a loyale and one into a gl 3-door. The radiators are for auto trans but work just fine in manual trans vehicles. I think it was 4 days for them to be delivered.

I changed over an auto 3-speed to a d/r manual recently and it is fairly straightforward. Check the rear differential on both to make sure that you have the same gear ratios - 3.9 for non-turbo or 3.7 for turbo. Search through the Older Generation forum for details. Drain the fluid in both trans before removing. It looks hard, but it is easy to remove the steering column to change out the pedal assembly. You don't need to remove the collar around the steering column near the firewall. When reassembling, put the steering column in without worring about hooking up the double u-jointer that goes to the steering rack - remove the lower bolt for the necessary play to install the other end on the steerng column. You'll likely have to change the spedometer cable. Taking off the dash is lots of fun - paractice on the donor car first. You'll need to put a little electrical jumper to bypass the neutral start. Wiring up the back-up lights is a little tricky, pm me if you have a problem Need to use the longer driveshaft from the manual donor car. Take your time, if possible.

It sat for 3 years unused with the person I bought it from and unknown history before that. Just need to get my back-up lights wired up and maybe the 4wd indicator kight before I install the interior trim pieces. Thanks again for your advice.

SUCCESS!!!! rguyver and Nug, I owe you some beer. Tried the 1st to reverse for about 10 agressive shifts, heard a clunk; started the car and the transmission began shifting normally. Have finished setting the timing and driven it a number of times along my long driveway in fwd, 4 hi and 4 lo. I was not looking forward to pulling the trans. Will post some pictures soon.

Clutch feels like it is fine - in order to test the gear selections, I moved the car by holding the clutch pedal down with a board wedged to the front seat and then pushed it out of its parking spot.

I've just gotten back to this problem. In neutral, when the clutch is let out, it goes forward as if in 1st. In all other gears it acts like it is totally bound up and the motor will stall. Very hard to place back in neutral position. Have not heard any gear grinding. External shifter linkage is still intact. Is there any hope for freeing up the syncro gear? Should I drain the trans oil and refill with atf? "sounds like your shifter linkage fell apart and is stuck in gear Is it stuck in one gear ? like 1st or will it actualy go in to 3rd + 5th you will know when you let out the clutch and you have to slip it to keep it from stalling if its in a higher gear , is a clutch cable moving freely no stiff spots , the only problems i have had with suby trannys is they lockup in two gears if the sincro gear gets jamed in eg. 1st then the shifter moves with out taking it out of 1st and locks up when tryed to shift in 3rd to 5th 2nd wont be there"

One other thing to do if you haven't, is to turn your heater valve on and see if you need to top off the coolant tank. Also, I make sure that the plastic recovery overflow tank is clean along with the rubber hose, so that coolant can flow easily to the radiator.

I just took off my xt wiper transmission this weekend to clean it out and added new grease - it was a little tricky to reattach. I took off the wiper arm and popped the motor arm from the bottom of the wiper transmission, then I cycled the wiper. The parked position has the 12 mm nut that holds the wiper arm on the passenger side. It is a little bit of a pain to reattach the motor arm to the bottom of the transmission - I took off my hood for better access. Hope this helps.

Not all have fan relays, I think only the cars that came with ac have them. Sounds like your power wire may be nicked and shorting out.

Just posting this to possibly save someone else time. After 172K, a rear shock wore out... This is a fairly easy job to do - you need a 17mm socket, long extension and a breaker bar. You do not need a spring compressor - the spring can be hand compresed to get the first nut started. I found that both of my donut stops that also support the plastic dust shields were very worn - couldn't find a replacement (dealer wanted $54 each with a few days wait - only 4 left in the country), so I cleaned up the old ones and used black silicone adhesive to put them back together. I got replacement Monroe cartridges #71223 for $45 each.

After washing, waxing and polishing my '87 dl wagon today, the sad state of my once black rubber bumpers stood out. They were stained, greasy and uv damaged; the various bumper and tire products that I had on hand wouldn't give an even appearance. Decided to do something drastic on the front bumper and used wet sandpaper #400 to attack the surface. It does clog the sandpaper pretty quickly, but a hose cleans it out easily. Tried a tire shine product on the bumper afterwards and aside from the places where there are deep scratches, the bumper looks much better.

Have both camshaft sprockets with aligning hole up, center mark of 3 lines aligned with pointer. Put on drivers side timing belt; rotate crankshaft 1 rotation, align center line with pointer, put on pasenger side belt. For timing, you may need to take out the distributer and align the dimple with the case mark so you know which way the rotor points for #1 firing. Take out #1 spark plug and rotate the engine cw (while facing it) and with a finger blocking the #1 spark plug hole determing the compression stroke and stop at TDC. Install distributer so that rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire contact.

I have to wait for some push help to test what happens when the clutch is let out because of where it is parked. Clutch action is smooth.

Finally got the 3at trans swapped out with a d/r trans in my project 3-door and after resealing the motor, new clutch & resurfaced flywheel, new radiator, and lots of little things... Got the motor running and was in the process of adjusting the timing when the car lurched forward and stalled out - ebrake was on. Now there is no neutral position and no reverse - whatever position I put the gear selector in, it wants to go forward when I let the clutch out. This d/r trans was supposedly a low mileage jdm transmission that sat dry (no gear oil) for a number of years before I bought it - the outside was very clean and looks unworn. I did notice that when I would rotate the input shaft by hand before installing it, that it had one spot that required more torque to rotate the shaft. I filled it with a mixture of synthetic and regular gear oil - 4 quarts total. Any suggestions?

The 5 things I would check are: brake drag - jack up each wheel and put in neutral with the e-brake off and check for ease of rotation; possible vacuum leak - pull off a vacuum hose while it's running; if it doesn't run worse, then you have a vacuum leak; rich carb? - are your plugs black?; wrong sparkplugs - just use ngk; bad oxygen sensor.

It may be just one of your vacuum hoses coming loose or leaking - lots of them to check. If the rubber tips have age/heat-hardened, they are prone to leak.

Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal and the new damn seal doesn't want to go in uniformly; try tapping in the opposite side to see-saw it out, but it ends up seating too far in. Try to use the bent tip of a feeler guage to slip under the seal and pull it out, but that doesn't work. Try a bent paper clip and I end up cutting the seal slightly. After looking at another engine block, it looks like the seal may be so far back that it would block the oil drain hole. So, the new seal comes out destroyed with screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Went to the dealer and picked up a new seal for $15.38 = 1 case of beer*.

Oil pressure: Did you use the special reinforced o-rings between the heads and camshaft towers? With the rough running, check for a vacuum leak by pulling off a vacuum hose and see if it runs rougher.

As my subaru projects get done, my scrap pile has grown and now I need to take a trip to one of the local scrap metal recyclers/buyers. Any advice for dealing with these places, ie: Is it best to break down engine blocks and separate the metal parts? The spot price for aluminum is now over $1/lb and over $3/lb for copper (Anyone get price shocked recently when they went to buy some rolls of house wiring?) What parts should we be making sure don't go into scap piles in order to keep our older subarus on the road?

There may be a vinyl tube attached to the drain cock that you need to rotate down. Open up the radiator cap. If no coolant still, then just place a bucket below the drivers side radiator hose and drain as much as you can. Remove the other radiator hose. You can remove a partially filled radiator.

I can recommend the NAPA - Beaverton Auto Parts store for getting your flywheel resurfaced. The turn-around time was 1 hour for me this week. Bring your AAA card for a price discount. Total cost was $49.25 for the resurfacing, new pilot bearing and the bearing pressed into place. Resurfacing and bearing replacement was $32.50 by istself with the AAA card. Would also replace the two wire clips that hold the release/through-out bearing to the fork - about $5 from a dealer. If you take out the clutch fork to grease the pivot ball, the metal clip orientation is counter-intuitive (at least for me).

Check your spark plug wires, sounds like you are running on 3 cylinders.

One more thing to add to your parts list is the hill holder return spring assembly. It may not be worth it to add the hh (interfaces with the brake circuit), but you need a return spring mod for the clutch fork.

Is there any ecu signal modification needed when swapping out an auto trans to manual in order to tell the ecu that it is now a manual? The car is an '87 gl 3-door with spfi. Have removed the auto trans, installed a 3 pedal assembly and replaced the speedo cable with a longer one. Have the needed color matched trim pieces and longer driveshaft. Keeping the original instrument cluster and just putting black tape over the auto trans indicator part. The d/r replacement trans is almost ready to go in - just need a replacement 4wd switch (long one at the rear of the trans is broken). Getting the donor flywheel resurfaced next week. For wiring mods, I am jumping the thick black wires in the auto trans connector to enable the neutral position signal to allow starting. Still need to figure out how to wire in the reverse switch for back-up lights. The d/r trans I am installing just has two switch holes, while the high mileage one from the parts wagon has 3 switches - what's the 3rd one for?

Generally, it was the manual gl models that came with dual range transmissions. I would not rely on either the year or model of the ea82 cars to tell what you may be getting - if its still running around after 15+ years, it's likely had driveline parts changed.