Phizinza

What type of front diff are you going to use? I hate puzzles.. damn this EJ wiring.. I got no idea. EDIT: Oops, just saw your other post. OBX eh? is that Aftermarket, or Subaru factory?

Three more questions. What is, where is the "select monitor"? None of the engine to ECU wires through the inside car fusebox? Number 4 in the picture goes to the other picture. Can anyone tell me what I might need here? Now I just need to find where the ignition switch goes into the ECU.. I'm pretty sure that's important.

In my Brat I use L series (85 to 94) rear springs in the front. I used the rear strut tops too. Same hight, same spring rate, but more clearence to fix my positive camber problem.. I'm working on new front strut lift blocks to give me better camber now. I just need some steel.

Don't you mean, using L front shocks with rear top hats and Accord front springs bro? Can't see how Luke could fit rear shocks in the front.

Hows that RAM engine feel? And whats the carb your running on it? Looks awesome man, bloody awesome. Maybe some meatier tires?

Looks like it's a test it out situation. This is what I have heard too. Some fit, most don't.

I was looking at getting a new fuel pump, but for $400 it was a little too much for my conversion. I was told by the AUSubaru guys that I should budget at least $4000 for the conversion. So far I have the EJ22 with all the wiring and ecu. It needs new timing belts though. And a fuel pump. So far I'm at $727.50 (wrecked lib for $700, fuel pump for 27.50.) Do you think I can make it under the recommened budget? Next on my list will be adaptor plate, should cost me about $80 in materials. Then I might need a new radiator fan or two to go on the Liberty radiator. Dunno what that will cost.. I've also got a AWD dual range gearbox now that needs some new bearings. Got plans for that one. Stinky, what have you done about the standard MY fuel lines? I've been told that the vent line needs to be bigger. Have you still got stock, or do you use extra lines?

So your question is about replacing the cat? Well, I have seen "hi-flow cat's" before in cheap auto shops and online, but have no idea if they are any better. To pass emissions in some countries you pretty much need bone stock. Not sure about Canada. Best bet might be to ask a exhaust shop.

When you've used the 4.11, did you have to swap the pinion gear as well? Or was it just the ring gear?

I've never seen one, or heard of anyone doing it before. Sounds like a great idea, and you don't have to worry about no low range then. One thing though.. Are you going to weld the center diff? Or how are you going to stop it from just turning the front diff? Or is your car an auto with the clutch switch mod?

The Kumho's start with 14mm thread depth. I've used them for 9000KM and they have only gone down 2.5mm. So I am happy with them Apprantly the BFG A/T's and Toyo A/T's have similar compound rubber. My Brother is looking at getting some Toyo's because their thread looks pretty good for an A/T. And his been told they can last upto 90,000KM

When changing a 3.7 LSD to a 3.9 can you use the 3.9 ring gear in the 3.7 diff housing or do you put the LSD unit in the 3.9 diff housing (using the 3.9's ring gear.) Is the 3.9 pinion gear different to the 3.7 pinion gear? Cheers,

I'll steal any part I can to put on a Subie... So far the Jackaroo shockers are the only good thing I have found that Holden make :-p Also the shockers are about 2" round, stock subie ones are about 1.25" round. I don't know if this is better.. But hey, it's bigger!

I got a EA82 N/A MPFI fuel pump will this work with my EJ22? Also, it has a big inlet pipe, I don't think my EA81 has a pipe that big going from the fuel tank to the pump, can I just adapt to pumps pipe to a smaller one? Thanks,

I've done it by the manual and I have done it randomly. And I have found that it makes no difference which wheel you bleed in whatever sequence on my EA81. I forgot the sequence for a EA82, but I know it's different to an EA81... One tip, bleed your master cylinder first. It has two bleed nipples just like the brake ones on it I think.

The newer (89 onwards?) "Bongo's/E1800's" use 6 stud here too. I think you gotta look for the older ones that have the dual rear wheels like in the pic I linked to..

They have 5 stud to, and you can't put a ER27 in a standard XT, so I assume they are pretty different. But we never got XT6's in Australia, so

Because the front strut extensions in that picture don't correct for camber you will eat your tires up fast. I'd put no more stress then already there on the front axles. But because the rear axles are normally flat and only use the DOJ style, not CVJ they should take another 2" without a problem. So lifting the back 2" would be easy IMO, just strut extensions. Front needs a full lift kit, trans, engine, carrier bearing, struts...

So I was at U-Pull It yesterday and saw a 80's Mazda E1600 Van (also known as Mazda Bongo.) The rear wheels on it had a 4x140 (or the 139.7,) the front looked like a 4x114.7 or something. Anyway, they'd fit on a Subaru. One catch, because they are truck style'd rims (made to be doubled up) and because they were only 12" big you'd have to put them so they stuck out a lot. So, absolutely useless. But I did have an idea. If they came in bigger sizes (maybe the bigger version the E1800, or if there is even a E2000?) then you could put them on a subaru doubled up, weld a plate around them to turn them into 8 - 9 inch rims (I think they were 12x4") then you could run 11" or more wide ATV tires. I have no idea why anyone would do this, apart from being cool, and good for mud racing. But hey, it's another wheel that fits a Subaru that I have never heard about. Picture of a Mazda Bongo/E1800 We also got a EA82 MPFI fuel pump for my EJ conversion ($27 ) and some shockers for the rear of my brothers MY (extended more then 4" then standard but were 1" longer when compressed all the way, still that's 3" more travel. These were off a Holden Jackaroo. Found some Honda Accord springs for a mates 88wagon (they are off a 86 model, are these the right ones?) And of cause a spare 6 stud wheel I can use instead of keeping one of my 22kg M/T's in the back.. Other things I found out that I was interested in is the Alfa flat four is completely different to a Subaru EA82. I've seen a pic of the two motor sitting next to each other and the timing belt covers looked the same. So I thought maybe there was some similarities. But the engine to gearbox bolt points looked completely different and the heads would not be interchangable, they had 3 head bolts running along the bottom of the head. Anyway. Had lots of fun as usual. And got pretty much everything I went for. Still looking for a FT4WD trans though...

I vote for any EA81, not EA82.. Pushrod FTW

The spare tire sits where the EA81 ones do right? Well then I'd say you'd have to crash the car almost to the point you'd die at to get it's added safety. The protection it offers me is when I get a flat. But because my 6 stud conversion I don't have a spare at the moment. Have you done the air box yet? I'm always interested in seeing what people have come up with. Pics?

The GL10 had a EA82t motor. This has better flow heads and MPFI. It also only got 115hp, which from the SPFI motors (completely different heads) 90-95hp(?) is pretty bad. You wouldn't even get what the original turbo motor got by just adding a turbo. It's been said a lot here, just put a ej22 in. The work it takes wiring up the EA82t is just not worth the gain. EJ22 is almost as easy and you get 135hp without turbo spool..

Need a little more help. Having trouble locating these plugs/devices in the manual I downloaded. 1: relay with a large black-w/red-stripe wire going to a plug. Also there is some other smaller wires coming from the bit you see at the top. Which is the loom that goes from the steering collum thru to the engine bay. 2: Another plug with about 7 wires, any idea what it does? Where is goes? 3: Two plugs, one green, one black, connecting 1 small black-w/red-stripe wire (split in two) into one of the ECU plugs. Is this needed? Can I cut it out. 4: These are the plugs that connect to the other loom part in the other picture. Three big plugs, one blue, one black, one white. The black one I think had a few wires that came from the radio, which I have cut off. Are any wires in these plugs needed? 5: These are the two plugs that go to the main and fuel relays. 6: Fuse box plugs, do I need the fuse box? So far I have taken out most of the Cruise Control wires, see top right of the above picture. The wires going off to the right of the picture are the ones that go through the fender and back into the engine bay to plug into the engine (three grey plugs.) The yellow plugs are the ECU plugs. The big which thing in the middle is two big plugs that connect the lights loom(?) that goes through the right hand fender and comes out near the bottom of the chassis near radiator on the right hand side (Remember, this is a right hand drive car, so could be different.) I plan to write up as much of the stripe down as possible. This is a little harder then I expected, and I was expecting it to be pretty hard. I guess it would be easy just to bundle it all up and hide it. But I like things to be clean and tidy. Do I need any of this? Thanks so far, and any more help would be greatly appritiated. Cheers,

Bit more of a back story I forgot to mention. 8 days before we drove out to the place in the video the 83 wagon ran out of water (blown heater hose) and my bro thought it was just running low on oil, so he drove it for 20mins like that... When he got home, it was running very bad, we figured (with the help of this forum) that it was a cracked head or blown gasket. Compression said 125 on both 2 and 4, and 60 on both 1 and 3. So took the head off, replaced it with on sitting on another EA81 we had sitting there, replaced the gasket with a new $17 one. And rock on, works like it used it. Plenty of power, but now it also has a bit of a rattle. Anyway, after driving for 20 minutes on a hot-ish day without water. 2 hours of work later and the car is ready to drive 500km and bash around in the sand without a glitch. That is why I drive a Subaru. Only cost $17 plus a few $ for sealent and a head from a engine we got in a wreck that cost $150, which we've already used one axle out of and it's rear diff. Not the mention the front fenders and both it's font hubs.. It's amazing how cheap it is do run a subie then any other car I know of...

Yes.