Phizinza

I just can't wait to get this in some real dirt! Should be lots of fun finding the new limits.

That's alright bro, we've got that other EA81 and it's easy to do head gaskets. I guess we'll have to take both heads off and have a good look at them before heading out for the offroading on the 13th.

Looks good, but I still prefer the drilled hubs vs wheels.

Want to drool? How about the AWD D/R Liberty box I have with the 1.73(?, subaxtreme) to 1 low range and a center locking diff? I'm sure you could have that for $3500 plus shipping... unless you can get away with using a RX center diff? That might take $1500 off the price.

Never such thing as overkill. Besides, 10mins of welding plus a couple of bucks of wire and now I know theres no way it could break... If it does, it won't ever work as an open diff again, so I guess it would just have to shatter. But who cares, I've got two more open 3.7's sitting in the 82 wreck.

I was 'helping' a mate of mine do his EA82 timing belts. Well I wasn't helping very good because we were doing something very wrong. By the time we figured it all out we relised we had the motor running with the disty cam off by 2 teeth and the other off by 3 teeth! It ran, didn't want to rev below 2500, and didn't want to rev above 3200... but it ran. Remember, it's ok to run the motor without water for about 30seconds. After that you want to cool it down before starting again. Also, you aren't going to damage anything by running it even without the belts.. its a non-interference engine.

Looks ready for a hunt! Thinking about camo? Or just green?

The way I see it from my experience 4WD is fine on dirt or wet roads. Dry roads it's ok too. car parks... well thats something different. I have driven my car for well over 3000km in 4WD on tight bumpy windy roads including some car parking. Before I welded my rear diff I used to drive in 4WD except when turning really sharp (i.e. city cornering or carparking) I have felt no wear on any of the gearbox or CV's. Also the tires hold up too. And you can go much faster I am not saying it won't break anything. It probably will after enough driving in 4WD. But I have the spares and I'd love to find out how much what ever the weak link can handle. Pitty how I'm stuck with FWD now.. Although my brother only drives his 83 wagon in 4WD (8yo light truck tires suck for tracion) And his had no problems yet. I will report back when something gives way. Everyone says it will break. But so far no one has proven it to me. I still suggest only driving in FWD. Not everyone is as happy as me to replace a gearbox/diff/axle...

at a guess it probably used about 8 to 10 meters of .8mm wire. Doesn't cost much, not like the alloy wire and gas we got. Oh that reminds me. We used gasless wire.

hehe... Umm, well, my brother used prep wash (its made for getting surfaces clean before painting) to clean the inside of the diff. He only cleaned the gears though, so when we went to welding it just lit up with a rather nice bang.. Then we had a lot of trouble trying to put the oil/kero/prepwash out. But after we put it out and it burnt for a bit it didn't light up again. Nothing dangerous.. He also used anti spatter on the inside of the diff. Worked wonders. Then he got to all the bubberly bits on the weld with a drill + wire brush. So there isn't much thats going to fall off into the oil now. Also another thing you should do after welding it is put in some oil and work it into the pinion bearings... After this one was welded it locked up tight because of no oil and it took a little while to free it up. 3.7... It's interesting but most of the "Brumby's" I see in yards are 3.7 here. Also our 82 wrecked wagon is a 3.7, 87 wrecked wagon is a 3.7. A spare single range box with diff in the 82 is a 3.7. Although dad's 85 wagon is a 3.9 and my brothers 83 (with replacement 4sp gearbox and diff from i don't know) is 3.9. Oh, and my mate has a 3.7 in his 88 wagon too... It seems 3.7 is way more popular here in Australia. Yes, basicly you just want to turn it into a "solid axle" in other words stop the diff from doing what a diff does do. I couldn't find any pictures of welded subie diffs online. And there was bearly any info other then "just weld your diff, blah blah blah" So I thought I'd show everyone that doesn't know how it all works. Hope you enjoyed this. Theres one really sad thing about all this though... REALLY SAD.. No more 4WD fun on the roads :( :-\ My car handled beautifully on the road in 4WD... now it's just 3WD or FWD... oh well, I guess I'll be safer because I won't be going as fast.. But I sure will miss 4WD, especially going round the dirt corner that leads onto my road, had some awesome sideways fun around there... Oh well Time to make/get/buy a locker I thinks !

My brother and I had lots to do this week, so instead we decided to weld a diff! We pulled a diff out of our spare wreck the other day and welded it up, well we got half of it weled then becaue we ran out of wire for the mig. Today we got more wire and finished the job. I was worried about getting the drive shafts off my diff in the car as last time I swapped the diff I had to leave the cups on the diff and use the shaft and race that was on the car. But when I un-bolted the diff out of my car the splines just came off the diff! WOOHO! Then I pulled the right driveshaft out with some wacks. Bolted the welded diff in, covered everything in anti-seize. At the moment I just use the pins that come with the drive shafts and a screw driver that is cut off to wack them out. What would be a good replacement to quicken this up? Do the pins need to hold the splines together tightly? or can the pin be lose? Any how. I tried it out in my back yard. Works like a charm! It's like heaven on wheels! Not that I'd know anything about heaven.. Climbed up everything I had. Some things needed a little run up, as in 1 meter of driving before the wheels hit the up hill, instead of just tried to drive up the slope form the bottom. I so much want to test this out in some harder stuff now! So much fun. Heres the specs of the car. Its a 89 Brumby (Brat) 2" lift (but only 1 3/4 on the diff hanger) EA81dc (dual carb, high flow heads - ea82 valve style) 2" straight through pipe, expept that stupid cat that is half blown out the back of the exhaust. I was using 25.5" 215mm wide road tires with the test, but I will be using my Kumho 27" M/T's. Welded 3.7ratio rear diff, of cause. Pretty much stock after that... Pictures to follow, and maybe a phone camera video for you! EDIT: Here ya go. Not much but something to look at http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/downloads/welded_diff_action.avi http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/images/welded_rear_subaru_diff_cleaning.jpg http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/images/welded_rear_subaru_diff_weld_ready.jpg http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/images/welded_rear_subaru_diff_welding.jpg http://webmaster.beverleypaine.com/images/welded_rear_subaru_diff_welded.jpg

Check these links: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-632559.html http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v347/lewlew/ Might be interesting to you.

I really don't want much. I just want my dual carb EA81 with a SC and efi in a 70's brat GL with my 15" wheels, lowered, nice new clean paint and some other stuff in there. For my ride at the moment I'd use a 1.9L TDI Golf engine, with a 6-8" lift, t-case, and some 31" mudders. With air locking front and rear 4.44+ diffs. (also free rego and insurance for ever on both cars would be awesome!) Not much, but I'd be very happy if I got all that. But theres other things I would like that don't cost anything. Oh, a milling machine for my workshop would rock too (does that count? It would be mostly for the subie custom parts!)

might just be a lose axle nut. Check them. I keep having mine come lose, even with the split pins in.

Easiest swap I've heard of is a carbed EA81 or EA82 and a 4 or 5 sp dual range trans. I am pretty sure it's been discused plenty in the past in this forum. Try browsing for a couple of hours

I love dyno sheets. They tell you so much about an engine. Just if there were more people who could dyno their older subies, lol. Very clean ride. Nice job on the 201hp too!

A guy I know dyno'd a stock EA81. Heres the resualts

Pushrod FTW!

Does the car try to fire? Or is there just nothing there? If you want to make sure your spark is in the right place do something like this. Take off the timming mark cover for the flywheel. Take out number 1 spark plug (battery side, on the front for EA81's.) Hold your fingure over the plug hole while turning the crank with a socket and tbar/ratchet/breakerbar or big AFS spanner. When you start to feel pressure build up in the cylinder take your figure off, look in and watch the piston til it gets to the very top. Now take your disty cap off and make sure the rotor is facing where the number 1 lead would be. Your timing marks should be visible on the flywheel at this point as well. Also make sure you have the leads on the cap the right way round. Firing order for an EA81 is 1,3,2,4. Gearbox 3--|--4 1--|--2 Radiator

Great video.. Well done

I have a 270CCA battery... Yeah, I know, TINY! But it starts my EA81 with NO WORRIES what so ever. I've even flattened it 5 times to the point where it only just lights up the dash lights. It came in the car when I got it about 21months ago and it looked pretty used then. It's not a really known brand or anything, and it's the smaller version (not the standard size that fits in a Subaru.) I keep saying to myself I'm going to have to replace it, but it's just a brilliant battery. A second battery wouldn't help with cranking if setup normally. The point is the isolate it from the other battery. So the primary battery runs the car and starts it. The other runs all your lights, and accessories. I went out with a Subaru club to do some offroading and there was a guy who had a EA82t in his Brat. He setup the aircon unit as a tire inflator and also with a surge tank he made up he could use a rattle gun to undo and do up wheel nuts. It wasn't perfect, but it worked. How big of compressors are you using Brain? How many Amps do they draw? A good battery holds about 60Ah. It should still be able to start a Subie with 20Ah in it. So thats 40Ah you can use while the car is off. 100watt light (8.3A) can run for over 4 hours before you can't start your car. Unless you want to run campsite things from your second battery I reckon just spend the money on an expencive replacement one. My brother put a 600CCA Exide battery in his subie because he planned on putting a winch in it. And the guy at the shop said that one should do fine for even a big 4x4 with a winch. Just my few cents.

you mean Sorry, another lame spam post by me.

If you got a fair bit of water in the cylinder then that could of caused a rod the break (because you can't really compress water that well) and that might of blown a hole thru the case. But that would of only happend if the water was trapped somewhere and then under intence throttle made it's way in.. Just guessing. Unlikely.. I'd say your just unlucky like Keith. Always sad to see a flat four like that...

Thats a very short wagon you have there... reminds me of mine The transfer case you use in a the subie setup is a 2:1 right? I guess that plus the 5.29's will give good enough gearing. Keep us updated when things start moving along. I am/was thinking of a 6" lift with the tcase, but it would look a little to illegal here

Don't ya wish you knew who it was so you could take those 33" tyres you want and drive all over the top of their car! muhahaha. If I was closer I would help hunt them down just for the fun of it! Set them up by parking your new car in the same place and waiting behind a bush or something all night.. with a 22!