Phizinza

What about kevlar? Still, I don't see the point, I haven't ever ripped a boot before, they do get old and crack, but it's only like 40mins work to change the boots on an axle.

Looks like you'd need locked front and rear diffs. Something like a 8" lift with a T-case for that lower range. And some really wide tires, to get enough grip. Oh, and maybe some extra axles just incase you do some damage to them while down there.

Yeah, EA82 85-94. Brumby (in the style shown) 82-94. But no Hatchbacks!!! Looks good mate. But I have to disagree with the AWD swap. I was at Peake (cool place with sand dunes in between me and Victoria, long way to drive) yesterday and watching the AWD's perform turned me off of the AWD conversion. The problem is, if you get one wheel in the air, the center diff just puts all (well, pretty much all) the power into that ONE wheel.. Also a better low range gearset costs $1500, way to much I reckon. There was a Forester with the gearset, but it didn't really do anything extreme, it climbed a coupe of sand hills, but my Brumby (with open diffs) went up there heaps easier. So I have to say stick with the 4 or 5 sp.. Unless you don't care about the offroad ability of cause I have a dual range Liberty 5sp BTW, it has a bearing noise so it needs a rebuild. If you were closer you could buy it off me cheap. I am thinking about putting that EJ22 in now.. But my little 7K RPM dual carb 81 seemed to go up those hills as good as the RX turbo Brumby. hehe EJ series D/R (not sold in America I hear) has a low gear ratio of 1.2:1 EA series D/R has a low gear ratio of 1.5:1 (these numbers are rounded off) It makes all the difference! I seen it with my own eyes. BTW the guy who had the Forester with the low range gearset got the set from http://www.subaxtreme.com.au/

I guess I can't really comment on the power of a well built dual carb with all new carbs and stuff.. I'm just saying my old used one isn't that great. And if you only had the manifolds and not the heads I can imagine it is just going to suck more fuel without much effect.

Replaced the fuel filter, hit 6K in second gear and was still climbing, but I didn't want to go much further until I fix my exhaust... It's weird, because my brothers fiat x1/9 has the exact same symptoms but even adding a better filter and an additional electric fuel pump didn't fix it. But his not to fussed about it now as his putting a turbo efi 1.3L in it, silly webers..

MY brothers Fiat requires you to lock it with the key, so you can't lock your keys in your car. I think this is the ultimate in stopping it from happening. I wonder if subie door locks can be modified to not lock when closing them..?

Tell ya what, I regret getting the M/T's, the saving I could of had getting normal tires would of paid for an LSD. Which I reckon would be much better. But anyway, I reckon I'll be getting an LSD soon anyhow!

Intake with carbs (needing rebuilds) costs about $350AUD. Plus about $80 for shippin. That makes $330USD. But, my engine isn't much better then my brothers normal EA81 which was rebuilt only a few hundred miles ago. And, I also have the complete EA81dc, with the reverse (highflow) heads and different cam. I think I should give this engine a real good clean up and rebuid sometime soon. I was offered $1500 for my EA81dc from a subie wrecker... A normal EA81 goes for around $200... Not worth it in my opinion. Well, my brothers got the mig now, and I have another piece of 2" pipe (fence post! lol) So I guess I'll change the filter, and see how it goes, then get rid of that cat. Updates to come later.

But I wouldn't think it would make the engine run like &*^$ for half a minute after. I would of thought it would just not rev high, then once the RPM goes down it would be back to normal.?

My thoughts exactly. With the added "check your brake pads and shoes, replace where necessary (don't just replace one side, you need to replace both sides, best to do all 4 at once really)"

Thats the problem with ebay... I've had troubles with buying pirated software from there before... Amazing how people get away with it.

Car: 89 Brumby (Brat) EA81 dual carb, 25" tires. Ok, just 10mins ago I was driving out on some back roads when I found this problem. First I was crusing in a 60kph zone, then it goes to 100 and up a really steep hill. I was in third and it wasn't speeding up, so I put it in second, which was about 3800RPM, I put the pedal to the metal and got her upto 5000RPM. Then I get a huge power drop.. car starts t slow down, so I let the gas off, and put it back on, the more gas I give it the slower it goes, so I put it in 3rd, this is when 2nd was at about 3800RPM again, and it keeps dying (keep in mind I am still going up this steep hill.) So I gently get her up the hill in second at about 3000RPM and cruse behind a truck for a while. Then I give it gas and it seems fine again. Until I hit 5400RPM, this time in 3rd gear. Then it does the same dying thing. After about 20 to 30 seconds its back to normal. Temp was fine. There might of been some pinging (I'm running 14degrees BTDC but only on 91octain) but that sound also might be something in my exhaust I think. Could this be a fuel problem? Maybe the float chamber is getting empty? Could that be because my filter (haven't ever changed it, I got the car 19months ago. dunno if the previous owner did either.) The fuel flow out the pipe in the hood looks fine. Anyone had a similar experience? I can rev her to 6000RPM in 1st gear to worries. Although she seems reluctant to go past that 6k barrier. Which is weird, because when I got the car it used to rev to 7K easy, and I once got to 8... but she wasn't too happy about that. Thinking of all that, I also had some problems with my exhaust once. The cat was falling apart. I ended up losing power altogether once and had to creep along at 20kph in second gear.. After getting her to a friends place I rev'd the engine as much as I could and finally part of the cat went flying out the back! I have a 2" straight thru pipe. I really need to cut that cat out and just weld in a bit of pipe to replace it. I have pics of the honeycomb part that came out the cat. I'll have to post them. Sorry about the long post.. lol Thanks for any help.

Yeah, it's best not to take the winder off as it is very easy to break it.

So true. But if it's going to be a daily driver, don't put M/T's on it. You'll feel sad when they wear down, plus they are alittle sketchy on the road.

Bolts baby, yeah!.. So easy to take off, I think theres like 5 bolts on top, one in the door bit, and one holding it on the bottom (I think, could be more.)

Yeah, 27's wernt so nice on the gas. My 25's are pretty nice, but you could go a little bigger without much problem I reckon. Stay under 26" unless you want to offroad lots.

I googled the name of the hackers and it seems they don't have a life.. 135000+ hits. losers

Those pannels you speak of are not really replaceable, well not in a "bolt on" fashion. You could cut out a section of another Brat and weld it on. Or you may be able to pull the dents out , use a little bog, glass, and see what you can get. For pictures, use photobucket most people say. I just use my website.

I'd say go the 3", not much difference in it at all. If you want it to sit a little lower, just get softer springs, that way you won't chew thru those cv's as fast. (but of cause you would have lower clearence.)

Yeah, I guess it's only about half an hour to change over. I might be heading out to a place this weekend and seems its a 3 hour drive I wasn't to sure about putting the M/T's on, but they won't mind the road much. If I do go, expect some pics! maybe a video

Could of been upgraded, or downgraded? Like power steering replaced with non-power. Or maybe someone put in the Air-con? Need pics

Just keep us updated. And I hope not to hear from you! Good luck.

Of cause if I'm climbing dunes I will probably want more tread right? Other wise I'd just lose friction. I've been on the beach with my m/t's and found even if I rev to 4 grand and drop the clutch (sorry clutch, but I have to test these things) I don't get bogged. It just has too much grab to sink.. All on dry sand of cause, wet is a totally different story.

I bet your O2 sensor in your exhaust would tell the comp how much (more/less) fuel to put in and you'd see no difference at all. That's why EFI cars have all those sensors.

What you need is laser cut copper head gaskets, the type they put in some race cars.. Probably expensive, but very hard to damage.