Phizinza

I always kinda figured that a M/T is going to dig a hole a lot quicker too..

I have some Kumho 27" M/T's (215/70R14) and some (very new) road tires 215/60R15. My question is, will I see much better performance in sand (like sand dunes, all dry) out of my M/T's? Or is it surface area that counts more. The kumhos don't like flexing much so letting them down to 15psi doesn't seem to make much difference (6ply side walls I guess) But my roadies flex lots, even at 25psi. Although because they are on 6" wide rims I wouldn't want to let them down to much just incase the bead slipped off.

I really don't think it matters which way you bleed them. But it's different for EA82's then for EA81's.. Don't know hos it is for EA82's, but I have a manual that says.

Yeah, I like the mud flaps too. That's why I kept mine.

on the master cylinder there are some bleed nipples just like on the brakes.. I done the one closest to the back first, then the front one. My brakes are great now...

That AMC is weird, and fugly IMO... I like the black on the brat, looks good... And that mud looks fun too.

in 175/70 the 70 is the percentage of the 175 which makes up the hight of the tire wall. So 175mm times .7 = 122.5mm 185/75 would have a tire wall of 138.75mm And as for the cross sectional measurement from bead to bead... How you figure that? So a 175/70 on a 6.8" wide rim would be different to that same tire fitted to a 5.5" wide rim.. The way I see it is the first messurement is the width of the tires tread... As for snow tires and studs (I would have no idea as I live in Australia) I guess you'd wear those studs down vert quick on tar and it would probably handle like a bucket of bolts too...

Yeah, cheap is good. Here supply of EA81's is about the same as EA82's (only cheaper.) One other thing I have noticed is my brothers EA81, which came in a a old rust heap, has more power then all three EA82's I've driven. (talking all carbed engines here.) Of cause, with the EA81 it looks like it might have been rebuilt. Has new points, rotor, cap, plugs, air filter, ect ect... It goes very hard, even close to my dual carb EA81 with the DC heads. Although it doesn't have the same top end (after 5K it flatterns out) I always seem to have problems with t-belt tensioner pullies on any engine... Thats why I love my EA81 (probably to death)

Still didn't beat me :-p Fell free to adjust my sentence to give it more adjusts if you fell it needs adjusting...

It appears you have missed one of my other posts on why I don't like that idea. Each to their own, if you like autos, enjoy. I just don't like people telling me there better then manuals or telling me I should have one. I like driving manuals, and I hate driving autos. So my choice is manual. I don't mind sequetial shifters. But the only car I have driven with them was a complete pain it the rear end as it took at least a second after hitting the paddle before the car would start to change gear... And that second was a random happening (sometimes shorter, sometimes longer.) Plus I love clutches. Gives me more control over the car. I don't like to be driven, I like to drive

Only problem I have found with it all now that it is working is there isn't much meat on the new shoes and it leaves the adjusters close to full adjust which leaves not much more adjustment... How many times can you put the word adjust in a sentence?

My answer to timming belt problems... EA81.

Since I got my Brat back in the beggining of 2005 the brakes haven't been to good. Pedal sinking half way down. And it felt like they were fading. Give it a few pumps and they felt ok but still a third down the pedal. It was drivable, and safe enough. I tried adjusting the rear brakes (drums) but it didn't help. I also bleed the brakes on all four corners 2 or 3 times, but still no better. So a couple of weeks ago I pulled the rear drums off to re weld the 6 stud conversion again (first time round I used a arc welder, this time I hada mig) and noticed the shoes were almost to metal... So I got some new shoes fitted them, adjusted right, and still the pedal went down a third before any braking. So Yesterday I bleed the two nipples on the master cylinder then all the wheels in the order it says in the manual (rear right, front left, rear left, front right.) Then as soon as I tested the pedal it was right at the top. Took it for a drive and it was perfect. I don't know how quick I can stop with these new shoes and bleed brakes as I am still breaking the shoes in, but it feels good so far. Maybe I won't bother about the expencive rear disc setup after all and spend the money on a LSD. I must say, I am overly happy with how my car stops now. I haven't done many of these types of posts before, I noramaly just answer and ask questions. But what the hell.. So, when bleeding your brakes, bleed the master cylinder too! Now that I've waisted a few minutes of your time, Enjoy this pic.

Another thing.. On race cars (like WRC cars) you don't need to care about a gearbox lasting 100,000+ miles. As they can now change them in 17mins and would run a different one at each event. So smashing the gears together wouldn't really matter too much.

You'll find there isn't much different in the look of lift kits as they all do the same thing. Some do it slightly different, but at this point in time I would say go the PK 3.5" lift. AA seem to be charging lots perhaps because they don't want to make them anymore. You could also try SJR. They have the most different lift I've seen. My bro, his mate, and I made a lift for both a 83 and an 88. Looked easy, got everything together, put it all on and found so many complications. Took 3 of us about 10 hours to fit it, but that did include making the steering extension, and cutting some of the blocks. I think you'll find it be cheaper to buy one then pay someone to make one for you. You also need to get all the right bolts, which can sometimes come to half the cost of a lift kit.

Don't carbed EA82 blocks use the same pistons as carbed EA81 blocks? So wouldn't the EA71 pistons fit in the EA82? That's how I've heard it.

.. First normal question, do you mind cutting and hammering, trimming and bashing? If not, 27's should fit. maybe bigger. If you don't want to beat it up, then 25's will fit. Also depends on the offset.. If you just goto the Offroad section you'll see a "sticky" with the same question you ask.

They are the same as my 6 stud ones. Check them out here... Even the same offset.. Would look awesome. I saw a red ?87? with these the other day.

Could be a striped hub. If so, normally it's the hub and not the driveshaft. Although I'd bet you'd want to replace both...

Can't help on the EA82 wagon, but heres a bit of useless/useful (?) info! My bro was lighterning his Fiat X1/9 and when he pulled the glovebox lid (just the lid) off it weighed 4KG!!! every bit counts.

Of cause... but this also adds a fair bit more wear on your gearbox (I have heard, and also seen in my sisters auto Audi.) If done a lot it can shorten the life of the box a lot.And I don't know about you but every 80's auto I drive seems to change up and down at the wrong times and most seem like there on their way out. This is a good point, but you have to also remember when you have a paper thin clutch you don't want some human controlling it. Also a few mil$ goes a long way in developing things. Over all I'm not saying its a bad idea. I just don't get the point in it. It doesn't use much human energy to shift with a H pattern over just flicking a switch and from my expirance with old subie gearboxes you have to "persuade" them into gear. A mechanical device is only going to shorten the life of your box. Although it would be cool to have paddle shifters, I just think its about them same coolness as having 8000watts of subwoofer in the back of your car (pointless.) But by all means.. Give it a go!

... And what is wrong with a H pattern shifter? John Bowe (race car driver here is Aus) said that he'd much prefer a H in his 360 Modena then it's silly computer controlled shifter... As for the Auto idea.... Autos won't shift when you want them too dude, at least this would. Driving a auto is like driving a go kart, you may as well not have a gearbox. It's so boring.. (time to get flammed by auto owners across the world)

I think most lift RX's here so they still have a ok car to drive on the road.. I can imagine that turbo would be nice with 27's on... But yeah, if you look at the design of the waste gate on most turbo's you'll see the engine won't run to well until it starts to spool, and you want was to be having to spool your turbo when offroading, as you want low RPM, not a slipping clutch.

I have Firefox with the latest Macromedia update on Win XP, plays fine. Maybe it's something not quite up to date with your PC... Although, if you can watch it another way, that would be better then screwing up your PC to try and make it view the video. Man, that looks like heaven... did I die?

As everyone says, the 2.2L is best for offroading because it has the best low end from the EJ's for price. And turbos aren't any use offroad. I've heard the 5sp and 4sp gearboxes in the EA's can't take the turbo power either... My personal option is the MY for offroading (older ones, 80 to 84, and upto 87 for the Brat) They are easier to work on, and just seem more of a offroad machine (I'm gonna get flammed now...)