Phizinza

But if you want a total onroad subie then the carpet does a lot for cutting out the noise. In my Brumby I have vinyl and I have removed the rear part just to make it easier to clean and dry out. But left the front in for its practical use, keeps your feet from slipping. If you have the old carpet/vinyl I'd do the new carpet thing. Sounds the best.

Tried bleeding the master cylinder? Done wonders to my brothers EA81 wagon...

Whatever, but my point still stands. The EA82 3 door took over from the EA81 coupe and the EA81 hatch was still being made. Therefore I think Subaru ment that the EA82 3 door was a coupe and the EA81 hatch was a hatch. Here are some of the pictures of the first Hatchbacks ever I could find. Aston Martin DB2/4 Austin A40 And plenty still believe the Renault 4 was the first hatchback true ever in the early 60's.... I also define coupe as what people call "Sporty" where a hatch is a cheap "economical" car. And seems the EA82 3 door also came in the RX form I would say it is a coupe. No more of this, believe what you want, I really don't care. I don't even like the look of most hatchbacks, including the 3 door EA82, although a rightly modded EA81 hatch is just sexy.

Personally I think a hatch has a back door (what we call a boot, in aus) that hasn't (or has very little) horizontal shape. The EA82 Subaru coupe is a coupe, not a hatch, as it took over from the EA81 coupe. Which to my knowledge wasn't ever referred to as a hatch... Therefore I think there never was EA82 hatch

I have to say, I can pretty much only laugh... although its always sad when a subie gets hurt.

Is it a squeaking that gets faster with RPM, or faster with speed? If so this indercates a bearing noise, maybe wheel bearing. It's hard to diagnose squeaking and klunking over the internet. S I suggest when you have the wheel off that side, give everything a good shake, sometimes you'll find loose parts, fualty ball joints, or bad struts. But really, this should be in the New Gen section, not old gen.

If they done it with an EA82T it could of been a late 80's hot hatch... just need it in black like the ea81 in cannon ball run. It was fun chopping that one but I still like the brat more

Lol, I agree about your comment on the Auto, I have been flamed for bad talking autos on other forums, but as a personally preference I wouldn't ever buy an auto for myself. Even if it were better offroad like many on AUSubaru claim. Anyway, my verdict is I'd go a old gen for offroad any day of the week. But I think the outbacks are still cool, pitty there Auto standard here and have no low range as far as I know. But I can't afford to bash around in a $15K second hand car...

But then your Hatch will be FWD only Wheres the fun in that?

That's alright, don't go to that much trouble, only if theres a set sitting there not attached. I'll grab the front disc and caliper I have on a wreck and see how much they weigh, should be near the same I would think.

Cheers mate. I'll grab a copy of the shipping receipt for my brothers engines to figure out what shipping would be. Anyone know how much a LSD weights, and how much a full rear disc setup weights?

I just figured the EJ18 wouldn't have 16 valves as a friends 94RX with a EJ20 in it only had 8 valves... Can anyone here say for sure? Yeah, I've heard planty about putting the smaller version heads on for more compression, just about every engine that comes in different sizes (but still the same design) can do that.

Just interested really... In Australia we have laws and rules about changing engines and things. It is pretty easy to put a non turbo engine of the same size only newer in a car with a non turbo engine (just say an EJ18 in an EA82.) You can put in the EJ22 but you need upgraded brakes and some other stuff. So, I had a thought. Can you bolt the EJ22 heads to a EJ18 block? That way you get 16 valves and ?better head flow?. But still you have a engine with a 1.8L engine number on it. See what I'm getting at? I don't plan on doing this, maybe sometime in the future, or to someone elses car. So, will they match up? Cheers,

Should be good... Post some pics when it's on would ya

A kinda translated link to the same place Nice shinny Brat. Good to see info going around the world no matter what language. Nice wheels too, Although 15"s would of looked better :-p.

Bumpidy bump, so more shall see.

No problem at all, this is what this forum is for after all Enjoy your modding. Lol... is that thing on stock wheels and tires?? A engine that puts out enough power for an AWD on 215mm+ wide tires in a RWD with skinnies on..

I am interested in the disty re-curving option for modded power bands. I don't actually want to re-curve my disty, I have plans for electronic spark on my engine. So I just want to know how it gets more low end torque. I gather that the recurving process is really just reweighting and respringing the disty to change when and where it uses its mechanical advance. The same rules apply to the electronic spark things I would assume (haven't looked into them just yet, just figuring out what it would do for me.) I am guessing that there would be a perfect possition to have the spark at any given RPM range. Am I right? This possition would give maximum torque I guess. I have heard a few accounts of people getting there disty re-curved and seeing vast improvments on low end torque from doing so. Has anyone done it here? Speak up if you have had experiences with it please. Just wondering, thats all.. Cheers for any help.

The "weak part" is in the gearbox/transmission, it is the 4WD selecting gear. But still I have not heard of anyone breaking this. So I don't think there is any issues. As for the LSD breaking things, this is because it creates more strain in the gearbox, because basiclly the LSD "locks" the rear wheels together. You may kinda get the same stain as being in 4WD, only not as bad. I would think it would be no problem, but needs testing. Also the low range gear might not be up to RWD driven hard. I am guessing if you play around, doing burnouts and drifting then you will cause more problems then normal driving... But this is the fact with any car. My advise would be, play it safe, expect to break things. (get a parts car! they're heaps good!) I am pretty sure there isn't much difference in strength between the 5sp and 4sp D/R MT's from the EA series. So either can be used with no problem to my knowledge. I have a feeling it's a r180, but may be a r160 I don't remember, I saw something about it in another thread here. I'd say use the search, but I bet you wouldn't find it as the search only really works well on the title and I think the topic went a bit "off-topic"

Cheers, And enjoy the grease... (oh, and I haven't done a RWD conversion yet, so everything I say may not be true or work )

Here are some quick simple instructions, a FSM would be much better to follow. Jack up one front side of the car. Take the wheel off and then undo the 36mm axle nut. It's normally bloody tight on there and needs to be, use a 36mm socket and breaker bar to get it off, you might need to stand on the breaker bar. You can also use a big open ended or ring spanner for this. Then take the nut off the bottom of the lower ball joint (it has a split pin, you'll need to get that out first.) The ball joint is the part that attaches the hub to the swingarm, swingarm is the bit that attaches the hub to the engine crossmember. With either a really big lever (5ft long metal bar with a flat end works good) or a ball joint separator, separate the the swingarm from the hub. You should be able to pull the suspension with the hub away from the swingarm towards the front of the car now. But be careful not to stretch a brake line too far. As you pull it away, pull the axle/driveshaft out of the hub, All this is very hard to do and you will hurt yourself no doubt. Now there is a pin in the inner CV cup that holds the cup to the gearbox. You will need a punch tool the right size to fit in the hole in the cup for this. I use a screw driver with the head cut off for this, don't use a normal flat or philip head screw driver to bash this pin out it's a bad idea. Now that you have the shaft out of the hub and the pin out of the cup, pull on the shaft really hard and it should pop off the gearbox. What might happen is you might pull the inner CV apart which will stretch the boot, so watch out for this. The only thing holding the race in the cup (the race is the bit with the balls on it that goes on the end of the shaft to hold it in the cup making up the Constant Velocity joint) is a big ring running around the outer edge of the cup, this sometimes pulls out. In which case can make it very hard to remove the cup from the gearbox. You might be able to lever it off with something, pretty much make it up as you go along using logic. Hopefully you will have the drive shaft out in one piece by now. To put it all back together (without doing the RWD conversion) do the reverse of what has been said taking note to these few things. Make sure the pin in the inner CV cup is tight and wont fall out, sometimes getting a new one is the best option here. Make sure you replace all the split pins on all the nuts that had them (lower ball joint nut and axle nut.) Replacing these with new ones is a good idea again. After pulling, bashing, smashing, and all that, it should be good. I haven't put you off of the conversion now have I? It is relatively easy, I got it down to an art with being able to replace a shaft in half an hour by myself if nothing major goes wrong.

I tried doing that in my 2" lifted Brumby with 27"s on and it wouldn't get to the top of both ramps.. maybe it was the gravle letting the tires slip too soon. Looks good. Ready to hit the rough, huh?

Yeah, lol, sorry... I'm just not going to pay top dollar locally when it's so much cheaper else where. And shipping form NZ and even the US is barely anything vs the prices here. You have a Subaru treasure cave?? I want one! haha I know I'd have a home for at least 2 maybe 3 sets of discs, but more is ok, might not cost anymore on shipping. Also with the LSD's I know I want one, and I know others who want one too, but I'm not sure if they have the money for one.

It's simple as far as I know (I have never done it before, btw) I also didn't see a guide, so heres what I think you have to do. Pull the front axles/driveshafts out of your subie. Pull apart the outter CV (not sure how, my manual says don't do it) stick the stub shaft back into the hubs and bolt them up tight. Then stick it in 4WD. I am pretty sure you can just leave the front diff showing it's stubs. Although leaving some inner CV cups on there might make it easier to put front shafts back in because the stubs won't rust. Someone here might have writen something, maybe they'll give some imput.

That's a nice price... how many can you get at a price like that