Phizinza

You won't lose any power in 4WD unless you turn, or have odd tires. In RWD you'll have just as many horses as in FWD. With the RWD conversion you can select from low range RWD or Hi range RWD (normal gearing) Basicly you'll have .7, 1st, 1.7, 2nd, 2.7, 3rd, 3.7, 4th, 4.7 and 5th gears to use. Although I don't suggest switching from low to hi range too offen, you will probably wear out your low range gears. In other words to answer your question.. It will drive normally if you are in 4WD Hi spot on the lever. Remember, your only taking out some shafts, not changing the diff.... although, you could change your diff pretty easy with only RWD as you don't have to play around with the diff in the gearbox. Also, what I have heard form this forum is EA82T power (115hp) won't break anything in the gearbox while running in RWD. Some think more power will, but I don't think anyone knows. Also some have been worried about using a LSD in RWD as it might put a lot of strain on the gearbox. But like before, no one knows for sure yet.

Yeah, It would be awesome to get a few sets. I don't mind where. The thing is I also want an LSD, and last time I checked US prices were the same as Aus prices on those. So I want to know what they are worth in NZ. Just incase someone does know what I am on about with rear disc setup heres what I need. It has to come off a turbo 4WD subaru. I need the rear hubs, rotors, calipers (maybe not, I might source some 200sx ones for rear hand brake,) and backing plates. I'm pretty sure thats all of it. Like I said before, I'll pay a little more for any time you put into it. Cheers,

I have vented fronts. Only want the rears. I would pay someone to pull them and ship them to me if the price is right. Just tell me what you got, can get Cheers,

I understand completely... newer cars are so nice when they just start and drive.. I personally couldn't own a nice newer car right now as I would want to mod it, then it'd be as bad as what I have. Modding is what gets you in trouble most of the time. Good luck with the Leg, wagon or sedan? I like the sedans more.

... I must be strong or something. I have no problems with my car with the 27" Kumho's or even with the 215/60 road tires on the pavment. I would of thought even my mum would be able to drive around car parks in my Brat (though she doesn't want to drive it because she doesn't want to learn how to drive another car...) And once your moving it's better then a car with power steering. Although, I'd say 13" to 14" would be a good size.

Sorry to post offtopic, but are those XT6 hubs?

... Hang on, are you going to get a Leg, or replace the EA82t motor with a Leg NA motor?

You should see what a little rubbing done to my Kumho M/T's Well I guess it wasn't that bad, most of the problem was the smoke that came off them while hitting the gas turning onto a road.

Hey fellow south dwellers. I am looking for some upgrade parts for my Brumby. Mainly just an LSD and some rear discs. Seems prices for these parts seem ridiculous here in Australia I wanted to know if any of you could help me out. My Brother bought two (fiat) engines from NZ and it was bloody cheap compared to prices over here even with the $400 boat freight. I would be interested in more then one set of discs and one LSD. I know a few people who would like them too. Plus more sometimes equals cheaper. I would ask this question to the Americans here too, but I think freight might be a killer and want to see what NZ has to offer first. I was talking to Waimak the other day and he said there were 3 Vortex XT's on Trade Me for $600. I know for fact that 4WD Turbo XT's should have rear discs to suite my Brumby and an LSD. So could you keep a look out for these items for me, and maybe give a estimate on how much they are worth? Thanks guys,

What sort do you want? Do you want it to look good? Original Subaru ones seem to cost an arm and a leg. Just start looking all over then net. After about 3 hours you will probably find one you like.. probably cost $200 too :-\

haha, yeah, my brother knows what you mean I reckon. He got a Mazda 626 2.2 turbo and lost his licence (after owning it for 6 months.) Turbos are killer... thats why I want a supercharger! :-p

Look down the page a bit on the Offroad section (where this post is) you will find a thread with something to do with stock offset, I posted this in it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=495443&postcount=7 Stock EA81 or EA82 wheels have 58mm or so offset, I have some Nissan 14" (6" wide, that meesurement is very important when talking about offset) rims that have about 25mm offset, and they are "perfect" just sit inside both front and rear guards on my Brat. I also have some 15"jj6" mags with the same offset, see here. Looks like your rims have a negitive offset (bit that bolts to hub is closer the inside of rim then outside of rim.) Maybe 10mm negitive offset if they were a 6" wide rim? Hard to tell unless you messure them.

So, whats replacing the EA82t? Sad that these are such unreliable engines, Subaru had a good thing going, I guess they got back on track in the end...

I would assume you could swap out the center diff to go back to AWD. But you will have problems getting the front driveshafts to go back in. I don't think you will be able to use the old Leg inner cups on this gearbox. Might have to get some WRX shafts and some GL shafts then weld them together. Theres been a couple of threads with info about welding shafts together on thid forum, plus try google. I can see why you want AWD... Subies are ment for handling.. not that rubbish :-p As for the original topic. Yes you can convert to RWD, just need to take those front shafts apart and stick it in 4WD.

Ahh, didn't see that sticker. Also didn't relise it was a import. Still, same design as a Sherpa. Those had 4x100 wheels didn't they?

GD... you have to understand that other countries got different named subies.. like the Brumby/Brat... And here we call 85 to 94 wagons, L Series. I wasn't sure if a Sherpa was a Justy till I saw this thread. Now I know.. And I have always thought 4WD Justy's were cool, so now I know how to get one, look for a Sherpa.

I'd get a boost controller, put it to minimum boost, and use the carb'ed motor with all the turbo accessories, if that is possible... High comp + boost = love at first sight to me. lol

Sherpa's are normally FWD here in Aus. I didn't even know you could get 4WD Sherpa's! I want one now!

That looks nasty!

You can't really see my wheel too good in any of the pics I have online, but heres the best. It's a 300mm (12") SAAS wheel (cheap aussie brand) Personally I'd like it to be a lot more deep dish because I have long legs. Yes, I know it's on the wrong side of the car, get over it! :-p I don't like the 5 stud Grant brand, because you can't get the steering wheels to fit here (not new anyhow, and all the ones I've seen are wooden and for old mustangs or something :-\)

Heres an example of the stupidity of "ratings" My 130watt spotties use about 90watts... A cd player with 4x52watts out (thats the watts they write on the box) normally puts out about 12 to 14watts per channel at full volume. And barely uses a thing to spin the cd. My Pioneer 800watt peak, 400watt RMS Subwoofer distorts before you can even get 170watts out a good amp into it. (note here that most people think RMS is the amount of power at which it won't distort) A 200watt RMS Fusion brand amp can supply more wattage then a 400watt RMS Alpine amp. All of that is probably pretty useless to you. But I just thought I'd say it any how. I'd still pretend that the rated watts are real, and make the system good enough for those ridiculus amounts. It is always good to over engineer in my opinion And then you have that whole peak/RMS thing with sound systems... Like how do you get a 800watt peak 400watt RMS sub when RMS just means "Route Means Squared" which is peak x by .71 or there abouts.... Craziness!

4WD will get rid of a fair bit of understeer... It could also break an axle. Normally the inner CV cups break open...

LSD, 27" tires (A/T or maybe M/T's, I like the Kumho M/T's the best), 3" lift (PK only does a 3.5" now I think), and a weber... you'll be happy with it after that I am sure.

The Turbo'd EJ's really have too much power for any of the EA gearboxes.. A EJ22 has 138hp, and a EA82T has 115hp. So I'd say if you were to put in a EJ, go for a non turbo one, as it won't blow up your trans, and it will be more powerful then any stock/ish EA. But, I would keep your EA81T just for the reason that the engine belongs in that car. Oh and one more thing... DON'T PUT A EA82 IN!!! I hate 'em. EA81 FTW! pushies!

Not sure if these guys really have any in stock, but theres a listing for the EA81 on this page here http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/MISC/POR_MISC_mohubs_pg10.htm My brothers looking for the same thing. But can't find anything in Australia...