Phizinza

.... I'm going to reply to this. I've said this on this forum 10 or so times before but here goes again. The pinion shaft in the EA82 PT4WD gearbox is fixed to the gears on the secondary shaft and the EJ AWD box's pinion runs through that shaft. So unless you can heat treat, precision cut, weld, precision balance and heat treat again then its a no go. You can however buy a Forester gearbox from Australia with a 4.11 diff and a 1.44 low range ratio. Or buy a Liberty EJ D/R and play with pinions and gears with any manual 5sp US box to get what you want. But even that takes a little knowledge into how all the parts in a gearbox works and how to dismantle and remantle the box. Also getting the diff pretensions, preloads and backlash set right can be tricky and sometimes require some specialty tools.

If you want to take it that way that's your problem. I was just saying there could be confusion to names as NZ has a lot of grey imports and jap names are all over the place vs Aus and US model names. Sorry chux, I meant by "over there" as over in New Zealand. As in New Zealand (or the place the grey import came from if it was an import) had the option of 1.19 or 1.47 in the RX.

I would say getting aggressive at people because they asked a question and didn't get a straight reply is not polite forum conduct. Ease off and look at it from the other persons point of view. Just a tip mate. Yeah, right, like I wouldn't know what an EJ vs EA box looks like. You should do a search for 'Phizinza' on here, you'll see I know enough to know the differences. But go ahead, make uneducated blind statements... Finally, don't feel I'm trying to get in the way of you selling these gearboxes to people in the states. I'm just asking questions that I know these people would like to know the answers to before they spend $$$. See, I've been on here and answered plenty of questions about EJ D/R gearboxes long enough to know what these people want.

Ok well my worry is if you get an EJ D/R with center locking diff the center diff will be different to standard ones and need a different pinion shaft. Thus the ratio will not be changeable. I have heard of this 1.47:1 ratio that NZ EJ D/R's. To my knowledge the RX's they got over there had that option too over there.

kiwishooter says the Legacy D/R boxes he has have a lockable centre diff.. This blows my mind because after 5 years of playing with these cars and all the boxes I've ripped apart and all the research I have done I have not heard of this option until now. I personally would be a little bit worried about getting one of these boxes as I know there are name differences and confusion when it comes to NZ's cars so I would want to know for sure this is a EJ gearbox and not an EA gearbox they wants to sell.. kiwishooter didn't quite answer my questions enough to be happy enough to buy one. And to you kiwishooter, if you give detailed info on these gearboxes it will show you actually know your stuff about Subaru's and make your "customers" happy to buy from you. Oh and GD. The EJ D/R options we had in Aus that I know of are: 89-98 Liberty - 1.19:1, 3.9 95-02 Liberty - 1.19:1, 3.7 97-02 Forester - 1.44, 4.11 3.9 ratio should fit with 1.59:1 low range. If you want an EA82 RX FT4WD centre diff you must take the diff ratio with it, 3.7. Or get a single range XT6 with the FT4WD 3.9.

Anyone know if the OB struts have more travel then the Leg struts? I know they sit higher but its that all?

Problem with the EA82 FT4WD centre locking diffs is your stuck with the FT4WD pinion shaft which makes you stuck with either 3.7 (from 80's RX) or 3.9 (from XT6) ratio front diff. Now if the EJ with locking centre diff you are talking about uses a standard EJ pinion shaft, that means we could possibly use 4.11 or 4.44 as well. Although 4.44 won't fit with a low range without a fair bit of grinding to the crown wheel but eh that's another story.

I'm still stuck at this centre diff lock in an EJ gearbox... So the Lego's that came with these boxes had an EJ18 then? None of the EJ D/R boxes we got in Aus had centre diff locks. But I would be extremely interested in getting one of those in the future soonish. Are they VLSD still? Or is it like the older EA82 RX FT4WD gearbox centre diff lock which was an open diff?

I didn't know lube helped the back...?

I have not heard of Manual EJ D/R boxes with diff lock..... tell me more?

I've got one... Ended up bending the poll thing you use, just cut it and used a piece of pipe to sleve it and fixed. No good for onroad cars, as you need to still balance them. And just to have that done, for me at least, costs pretty much the same as getting a shop to change and balance them. For their price, probably a good thing to have if you do a lot of offroading.

Body Lift aren't hard to make. Some simple rules to follow like front strut tops need 7mm offset inwards every 25mm lift to correct. Steering extension is needed which can be tricky if you are no good at welding. There's heaps of pictures of them around this forum, and that's pretty much all the blue prints you should need. Just measure the bolt patterns (only necessary for the engine mounts and the EA82's rear sub frame mount as well as strut tops, as the rest are just single bolt blocks). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100980&highlight=lift+kit* Search box is your friend.

So if you pinch the return line it idles and revs fine? If that's the case, either the pump isn't supplying enough pressure, you have a fuel leak, or the regulator still isn't good. No codes?

Hey mate, looks good. Just wondering how your Lego is lifted? Body or Suspension? I think you've told me before, but I can't remember...

The EJ's centre diff welded up is stronger then the EA's transfer case. But just so you know the rest of the box is pretty much the same so no benefit there. I've driven many 4WD's with stock and extra low range gears. I would suggest if you are not using the Subaru's 1.59 to 1 low range in conjunction with the extra Tcase (2.25 to 1 - 2.8 to 1 is normal gearing in these) you should upgrade the low range gears in the extra Tcase. Something like a 4 to 1 is good and will put less stress on the rest of the car. When using an extra transfer case the diff ratio of the gearbox has no meaning as you don't use the diff in the gearbox so you can use 4.44, 4.11, 3.9, 3.7's or what ever. Just pick your diff ratio to match your over sized tyres so you stil can drive on the street well. Also remember 4.44's will be weaker then the others as the pinion gear gets pretty small on those boxes. Just my 3 cents

So why did you make the front struts adjustable? If you don't mind me asking...

that first run made it look way too easy... Main problem with the camera work is over use of zoom.. I hate when people zoom.. Serious, only zoom over 3x if you have a monopod or tripod. And if you're going to look away from the camera leave it all the way zoomed out... Good stuff anyhow

4sp's are very different to 5sp's.. so no interchangeability that I know of. EA82 5sp vs EJ 5sp is a different story. But no, ratios cant just be swapped between the two. I would of thought to 10+ times I've said this along with others saying would of been enough for people to be able to read and understand. oh well

You cannot run 4.11 or 4.44 gearing in an EA82 gearbox without expensive precision cutting and welding of pinion gears. This is because the EJ gearbox has a pinion shaft running through the gear shaft while the EA gearbox has the pinion gear on the end of the gear shaft. Unless you have a FT4WD, which is the same as the EJ in that it has a pinion shaft running through the gear shaft but because the pinion shaft is different you cannot swap them around anyhow. It might be possible to run the EA82 dual range box modded to the EJ centre diff casing and running a 4.11 with a 1.59 low range like someone on here tried recently but at the moment it looks like what gray said is the problem and you'll just get a grenade of the gearbox problem.

Nah... theres a Y-pipe behind the car standing up lol Theres a picture of it sitting next to the old runner

have you got the charcoal canister under the hood still? Sometimes these get removed and the vent gets blocked, bad idea..

watch the video mate, that's barely not needing a low range, look at that thing bouncing everywhere. I know autos don't need low range as much as manuals, but that doesn't look good and I think that auto is not doing so well.

So a few weeks back my brother bought this 105 series LC It had 3" lifted rear springs, no working heater, CEL, and a few more electrical problems. He got some 3" lifted front springs, put them in and found the anti-sway bar rubbed on the front prop. Fixed that with some 2" blocks dropping the bars mounts. He also fitted caster adjusted plates. Then he found the front prop was making a hell of a racket and wobbling lots. So he bought a Hilux shaft with a double-cardan joint and made a custom front shaft for the cruiser. Still balancing it but its pretty close. We fixed the heater by removing the dash and replacing the servo motors which control the vents. Looks like this car went through a flood as there was heaps of corrosion on most of the plugs and thats probably why a lot of the electrical stuff doesn't work. Anyhow got it all back together and now the aircon won't turn on. Luckily we're in winter right now so don't need that for a while. He also painted the bullbar, fitted some 220mm bull lamps and a 12000lb winch with dynarope. Then we took it to the LPG fitters to get a new Vapour Injection LPG fitted. So now its cheaper to drive then my Subaru... But it will take 2 years to pay for itself. Plans are to buy some 33x12.5 Micky T ATZ's, roof rack, and a new exhaust. EDIT: oh and spot the subaru part of that pic

why has he got the brakes on all the time? Is it because the auto is so crap it can't crawl?

Actually, every gearbox is different. This is why the backlash is adjustable. I've found its not incredibly critical, A mate of mine change his gearbox because of bad synchros and when we got it out one side was loose and you could wobble the diff, it also had the hook bolted on holding it there so it must have been like that for a long time (he put over 20k km on it like that). The box made no noises and drove fine. Just do it up tightish but not so there is any feelable friction from that bearing cap.