Phizinza

If you have a EFI (not a carbie) model then it very well could be an exaust leak before the O2 sensor. This will make the car think it's mixture is wrong and try to make it right.. Which will make your idle go up and down and also can make it run very high. Look at the exaust where it bolts to the engine. It is very easy to strip those bolts and if they are not done up tight enongh it will leak. I have had heaps of problems with stripping the studs, so good luck...

Like I said just earlier. You should get everything you need with a lift. And seems you don't want to make it yourself, it should be very easy to buy/install. Just ask the guy you are planning to buy a lift from about installing it, and whats needed

So... Whens it getting some Turbo's? lol BTW, nice work. Fits like a glove.

Rusty pink... wonderful.

Plus big tyres and lots of torqu can damage axles... But not like subies are ever going to have a problem with that...

My brothers wagon (stock EA81 83 model) has markers on the speedo for when you should change out of the gear. So at 40KM/h it has a little (1) which means change into 2nd. At about 80 it has a little (2) which means... change into 3rd of cause. And at 110KM/h it wants 4th. My Brumby (Brat) has a dash out of a coupe so it has a tacho.. Taking it to 5000RPM is fine. I offen take it to 6K. Of cause, you have a 1.6L, so it may be different. And you have a 5sp... See, in the US they only got upto 87 Brats, and they never had 5sp's, only 4sp's and some had autos. Does it just not go any faster in 1st gear then 20km/h? As for the thrust bearing (throwout bearing.) Noramally they make squeaky noises... "metal grinding noise khhhhh.. khhhhh.."... hmm, like LPG-brumby said, does the grinding noise change speed with the car or the engine RPM?

Maybe move in to their yard? Then you might get the parts you want... You could live out your car, or any car of your choice! lol

If you never use them, get rid of them. My car drives heaps worse with 40KG in the back, lighter = faster. Every bit is worth it But if you arn't going to far with that car... Maybe not bother

Just cos there might be some confusing here. 79 - 84 Wagons = EA81 - came in DL (single head lights) or GL (Dual head lights) 79 - 89 Hatchback = EA81 (85 to 89 had hydrolic lifters) - Standard (round lights) or DL or GL 82 - 87 Brat = EA81 (again, 85 to 87 should be hyrdo lifters) - DL or GL, also optioned with "T-Tops" 82 - 94 Brumby = EA81 (same as above, Australian and some other countries called thmem Brumbies, not Brats) 81 - 84 Coupe = EA81 - DL or GL 85 - 89 Wagon = EA82 (came in Carbed or SPFI) DL or GL, but the lights were the same on both, dunno what makes it a DL or GL 86 - 89 Wagon GL-10 = EA82 MPFI with or without Turbo (EA82t) 86 - 89 Coupe = EA82 same as above 90 - 94 Loyal = EA82 (looked the same as the 85+ wagons, only with different name) I am pretty sure I am right on this info. There are so many more models and features... But... That's too much for one thread. Dual range was available (option?) in just about all these models. It's easy to find out if it's dual range. Just drive it and play with the 4WD lever. All the way down should be 2WD HI, on up should be 4WD HI, then a nutral, then the top which is 4WD LO. Lift kits for EA81 model cars are easier to do then EA82 style. I would recommend a EA81 as the best to offroad. They are easier to work on (and face it, if your beating it around a trail, your gonna break it!) The Hatchback has the best setup out of all the subies for best offroader. It has a shorter back then the wagon or Brat, and it looks so cool! Also think it's lighter. Anyhow, Welcome, and good luck with getting a subie.

1. Yes, can get squeaky old struts. 2. Yes, it could be the strut. You could try putting WD40 up there, but it probably wouldn't last long. I have recently changed the springs on both my struts. It was very easy. If you have spring compressors just pull the strut apart and grease it up. Heres how I took my struts out: Remove the lower ball joint (out of the hub is easier then out of the swing arm) Remove the steering joint by taking the nut off, turning i up the other way, putting it back on so the top of the bolt is level with nut and hit it squarely with a hammer. You might need to hit it fairly hard. unbolt the brake line holder on the strut (might be different on mine to stock, as I have a 2" lift) Unbolt the top of the strut. Pull the hub assembly backwards (to the back of the car) and then rotate it so the strut is facing folwards. Unbolt the two bolts holding the strut to the hub. Stick a flat head screw driver in the gap, hit with a hammer to pry open the hole in the hub and hit the strut out of the hub. Put your spring compressors on, and take off the nut that olds the shocker assembly together. Then you will see a washer with a rubber washer around it in between the spring holder cup thingy and the rubber bearing thing that lets it rotate (so you can steer.) Maybe some grease in there will stop it from squeaking. Also you can try pushing on the shocker while it has no spring to see if it makes a squeak. Hope that helps.

Sorry, can't say for sure. But I would think so. I heard that the EA DOJ's will fit in Early Liberty Cups. So I would think the 23 to 25 spline cups would be the same... *I would think* Fat load of help I am, huh...?

Looks mean! Should be lots of fun. Enjoy!

The amount of stuff that goes out of those places un-paid for is huge. So you can understand why they take big ticket items off of the cars before they let you rip into them, can't you? Plus, lots of people would probably take the turbo off, go to pay for it and gasp at the price they want (can get) for it. So maybe they don't take the turbos off, but people do and the just leave them at the desk?

Just plain stupid... Umm, like music has more frequencies then 20hz to 200hz Me want....! Me want more..!!! Ohh YEAH!. Mud! Wish I could get a 4WD Justy here is Aus.

Very well put. I love these old subie engines!

so you say RWD subie handles better then FWD? I haven't tried it so I won't contest it. But I still believe you can go faster around corners in 4WD then either FWD or RWD. I love my subie in 4WD. I also don't care about the gearbox much. I can always get a old wreck off ebay for a "new" gearbox.

Probably been said already, but... My brother is my clutch aligning tool. (no, his not a tool. but he does a good job at being one.) He uses a screw driver, and his eye. His done it 3 times for my EA81 and it always went straight on no probs. I have tried it a few times, but only got it right after the third try. So anyhow, doing it by eye is completely possible. It does help if you have a engine hoist and engine leveler for it too.

Yeah, I second that!. I also love that color on a brat.. After looking at all the pics on the "Brat Colors" page on ultimatesubaru I always thought that was the best 'stock' color.

Cool. I have all the tools needed to do the job. Not doing it on a subie, got plans for a 2L mid engine suzuki hatch (normally fitted with a .8L lol). Very nice workmenship. But hows the camber angle on the front?

Lucky bugga! :-p Should be fun I'm sure.

So your drilling the rims, not the hubs. May I ask why? Easier? Should look sweet on your hatch. Are you going to have an LSD or welded rear? That's my next mod I reckon...

Looks great mate. But tell me, what did you do to weld the drive shaft? Did you use a lythe to get the shaft straight. Or did you just do it free hand? I see you used a tube over the shaft, how thick is it, and is it just plain steel, or high tensile?

Do AA still have kits for sale? I thought they were closing the Subaru part of business down. I have heard plenty good about AA kits. I have also heard some bad. But most of that bad was just people assuming what the kit was like without even seeing one in the real. But I am sure there are some people out there that have had issues with the kits. AA has alw ys seemed to be good at fixing their problems. Wouldn't this be better in the Offroading section? After all, a lift kit on a street car is a bit ricer... Good luck with lifting your roo anyhow.

But if you take the disty out that can all change. Here is what I do to get the disty in the right place. Take out cyl 1 spark plug. Turn the engine over with a spanner with your finger in the hole. When you start the feel conpression look in the hole and watch the piston come to the top. Once it's there put the disty in with the rotor pointing at one of the plug holes in the cap. Then obviouslly that is your cyl 1 spark, then work counter clockwise and put your other leads on. It should be good then.

Heading up hills is where you need the most traction. And also heading up hills puts lots of weight on the rear. So a open front should be fine. You can always use the handbrake, or do a dual handbrake setup. Would be nice to see a air locker in a subie. As for the splines, I don't know, I think it's 25. But the rear drums on my car has a smaller spline (I think it's still 25) but it is smaller. I'm pretty sure the rear diff is the same as the front diff (in the gearbox.)